Door furniture, latch advice

greensalad

As a result of having some new carpet fitted, we now need new doors! We were planning to replace the doors anyway as they are old and chipped (and one has a hole knocked part through) so we are replacing with all new. 

I've discussed with our builder and would prefer to purchase my own door furniture so I can choose (because I'm a bit fussy) and he is happy for me to do so, but I just want advice on exactly what I need to buy.

Door: https://www.leaderdoors.co.uk/liberty-doors-white-internal-primed-pattern-10-door-iwpp10-p51767
Handles: https://ironmongeryexperts.co.uk/satin-brass-velino-lever-handle-on-round-rose-eul020sb.html
Thumbturn lock: https://ironmongeryexperts.co.uk/satin-brass-snib-release-on-round-rose-ceb004sb.html

1. Doors I have selected are solid core and can be trimmed 12mm on each side. Have measured inside the reveals of the door frame to check that is OK. The width of our internal frame is 768mm which I believe is pretty standard for a 762mm door. The height is 1968mm from carpet to top, so I believe a 1981mm door with trimmings inside the 12mm maximum should be fine. Does this sound OK?

2. The current doors are 40mm thick and the jambs are located as such. The new ones will be 35mm. I presume that's fine? Just means they'll inset into the frame by 5mm extra instead of sitting flush in the frame. I suppose new jambs could be put in, but does it really matter?

3. The en suite door is slightly narrower at 692mm so a smaller door can be purchased at 711mm width and trimmed. Is that OK?

4. I have chosen handles on a rose which are suitable for 35mm door thickness from Carlisle Brass. I am struggling to figure out what sort of latch I need. I seem to remember when we fitted a Carlisle Brass handle on a cupboard downstairs (on same rose, different handle profile) we needed to purchase a special latch that allowed... I think it was a "pass through" so the bolts could go through to the other side of the handle? I can't seem to find what it was called.

5. Bathroom locks. I'd like a thumbturn lock for the bathroom but not sure what latch to buy in this case. The website I am buying the handles from sells plenty but hard to know what's right. What should I be looking out for? 

6. Is there anything problematic about switching the door hinge side? Aside from filling in where the previous hinge and latch were which I'm fine doing. It would make more sense as currently the door bashes into the sink and has a chip out of it for exactly that issue, plus we hope to do the bathroom new next year and the door the other way would make more sense with our plans. 

Any help appreciated!

BUFF

4. https://www.carlislebrass.com/media/multiplepage/file/e/u/FITCB0034-LeverOnRoseRevAFittingInstructions.pdf
You will need bolt-through latch(es). (btw if you are buying a couple of sets it looks like Wayfair is cheaper https://www.wayfair.co.uk/Carlisle-Brass--Velino-Latch-Door-Handle-EUL020MBRZ-L7124-K~U004077636.html)

5. presumably the thumb turn uses a 5mm spindle? If so just buy a bathroom lock as it will have a latch & a dead bolt built in - but again make sure that it is a case that allows bolt-through fixings for the handles.
& get the faceplate finish to suit your handles & your choice of square or radiused.

6. shouldn't really be but without knowing it can't say for sure ...

Mutton_Geoff

I prefer to put "fire" doors in if there is space, they are thicker, heavier and feel much nicer. Quieter too for noise transmission between rooms. You can move the rebate to suit the thickness of the door. 35mm doors in a 40mm slot will look cheap.

I'd also use 4" roller bearing hinges, they make the opening and closing feel much more solid.

Wayfair is cheaper

I've renovated loads of properties. My golden rule is to spend money on stuff you touch (doors, handles, light switches, taps etc). Cheap handles are just nasty. The extra cost is minimal in the big scheme of things and you'll forever enjoy the quality if you spend money in this area.

When I was househunting, I looked at a £1.6m house that had the cheapest door hinges from Wickes. It put me off buying (closer inspection revealed everything had been done on the cheap). Some other mug bought it.

So what if you spend £15/20 on handles instead of £5? That would be an extra £60 if you were doing 4 doors. You'll feel the difference forever.

As for doors, hinges and handles, I like Todd Doors (loads of recommendations on here). https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/

greensalad

Mutton_Geoff said:

I prefer to put "fire" doors in if there is space, they are thicker, heavier and feel much nicer. Quieter too for noise transmission between rooms. You can move the rebate to suit the thickness of the door. 35mm doors in a 40mm slot will look cheap.

I'd also use 4" roller bearing hinges, they make the opening and closing feel much more solid.

Wayfair is cheaper

I've renovated loads of properties. My golden rule is to spend money on stuff you touch (doors, handles, light switches, taps etc). Cheap handles are just nasty. The extra cost is minimal in the big scheme of things and you'll forever enjoy the quality if you spend money in this area.

When I was househunting, I looked at a £1.6m house that had the cheapest door hinges from Wickes. It put me off buying (closer inspection revealed everything had been done on the cheap). Some other mug bought it.

So what if you spend £15/20 on handles instead of £5? That would be an extra £60 if you were doing 4 doors. You'll feel the difference forever.

As for doors, hinges and handles, I like Todd ors (loads of recommendations on here). https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/

I don't mind spending a bit more! I did consider fire doors, the house doesn't have any, but how hard is it to move the jambs and will it create a giant mess? I don't actually mind doing a bit of filling and painting, it's an easy enough job for me to do, but just wasn't sure if it was a huge pain to do. I understand fire doors are 44mm thick as standard.

I think Buff was suggestng Wayfair is cheaper for the same item I've chosen from Carlisle Brass. I have a CB doorhandle downstairs and it seems fine so I'm happy to go with that. Interestingly, the doorhandle I really liked initially would only fit on a 44mm door. Do you think it would look strange if the handles were the same in one room but the roses/back plates were different? My bedroom cupboard has to have the round rose as it's suitable for 35mm. However if we upgraded to 44mm fire doors, we could choose a back plate instead of a rose. But with the same lever. 

For purchasing I am considering popping down a local specialist down the road from me and see if they offer what I want, as I don't mind spending more to support a local business if they can order it in for me even.

Mutton_Geoff

You're not moving a jamb, just peel off the rebate, it's thin strip of wood that the closed door sits against. Run a Stanley blade round the painted corners first to make it easier to remove. If it snaps, replace it as you will have to redecorate the door frame after you've put hinges etc in.

Make sure the chippy uses a hinge and lock jog for neatness.

greensalad

Mutton_Geoff said:

As for doors, hinges and handles, I like Todd Doors (loads of recommendations on here). https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/

Can't seem to get their product pages to load  Just me? https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/white-contemporary-4-panel-fire-door-fd30

greensalad

Mutton_Geoff said:

You're not moving a jamb, just peel off the rebate, it's thin strip of wood that the closed door sits against. Run a Stanley blade round the painted corners first to make it easier to remove. If it snaps, replace it as you will have to redecorate the door frame after you've put hinges etc in.

Make sure the chippy uses a hinge and lock jog for neatness.

My mistake. I thought that bit the door rested against was the jamb and what I now learn is the jamb I thought was the lining. Terminology mix-up! So moving the stops (as I've now searched and that's what they're called) shouldn't be hard? My builder actually lined the doors as we had both moved earlier this year, so he should know how he put them in at least! That's good news then. I may go for fire doors on the bedrooms + standard on the en suite. Or maybe just go all FD as I guess an en suite isn't a bad place to have less noise from! 

Mutton_Geoff

That's it, easy to remove/replace/redecorate. The heavier doors close with a much more satisfying thud. If you're painting them (guess you are as they are primed doors in your link), then wait until they've been trimmed to fit then lay them flat on trestles or a table as the paint finish is much smoother if it's laid flat (no runs or creep). Don't paint in the hinge rebates.

greensalad

Mutton_Geoff said:

That's it, easy to remove/replace/redecorate. The heavier doors close with a much more satisfying thud. If you're painting them (guess you are as they are primed doors in your link), then wait until they've been trimmed to fit then lay them flat on trestles or a table as the paint finish is much smoother if it's laid flat (no runs or creep). Don't paint in the hinge rebates.

Thanks for the advice! Good idea I will get them hung then I can put them on my pair of workmates for painting. I am just painting them white but it's a nice satinwood off-white I have used for all my trim so they will match. 

BUFF

greensalad said:

I think Buff was suggestng Wayfair is cheaper for the same item I've chosen from Carlisle Brass.

This. It's exactly the same handle from the same import company (I know the guy that set CB up originally before he sold it, used to supply him) just a different retailer. Why pay more if you don't have to (unless supporting local business which I agree with)?