Housing association not communicating and not doing repair no hot water or heating

macman

The pressure is too high. It clearly shows on the dial that at cold it should be between 0.75 bar and 1.25 bar, within the green zone. 1 bar will be fine. It's currently much too high at 1.75 bar. So, he's either repressurised it far too high, or he's failed to even look at the pressure.
Open the bleed valve on the nearest rad and drop the pressure to 1 bar. You have nothing to lose by trying this. It's not 'unsafe to use', if it was he would have been legally required to isolate it. All the evidence is that this guy was not an RGI.
If there was a leak then the pressure would be continually dropping. You won't see the leak unless it's on visible pipework, near a rad etc. Not if its leaking under the floor, for example. With a small leak, it will simply evaporate before it becomes visible.
Any discharge outside will not be happening now, but only when the PRV lifts, normally at around 3 bar. 
Do you know what the pressure was before he starting messing with it? It needs to be retested at the correct pressure to see if the fault is simply high pressure, or something else causing high pressure.

Norman_Castle

[Deleted User] said:

 apparently Karbon Homes are responsible for doing repairs and are who came out Friday and who phoned me today.

My housing association won't take responsibility for the repair and just keep telling me to speak to Karbon Homes saying its Karbon homes job and nothing to do with them despite me paying rent to them not Karbon Homes.

Most HAs subcontract gas servicing and repairs to outside companies. Whoever visits try and get direct contact details for them or the company contracted to do the repair. This will avoid having do deal with a HAs customer service, many of which are pitifully poor.

Your landlord may have an agreement with another organisation to do the repairs but they are ultimately responsible for ensuring the work is done. Failures of their arrangements should not be left for you to resolve. Again I'd suspect customer services are failing to manage your calls properly. They as individuals are working to the best of their ability but unfortunately they are not very able. (From experience, clueless kids who believe they're experts, generally oblivious to how little they know)

You said you received a reply to your complaint. Can you reply directly to whoever contacted you either by email or phone?

If you call the HA again ask to speak to a manager.

[Deleted User]

Before the guy started messing with boiler last Friday pressure was in the green area. He just kept going trying to increase the pressure mumbling some thing about low pressure and at one point said sensor that measure pressure must be faulty just because it didn't matter how much water he added to it to increase pressure it didn't fix boiler.

I was looking in cuboard again earlier and noticed something. I think it's diverter valve I'll attach a photo. 

It's oozing pink gloop one side and I noticed other side it's dripping drops of water very slowly.

I'm assuming this isn't normal could this be the problem? Can a faulty diverter valve cause pressure problems?

Im still holding out no hope that they will fix boiler today already had a phone call from them today changing appointment time as apparently alot of there staff have called in sick.

Thanks again Macmam for your advice I much appreciate it.

macman

The diverter valve on a combi is inside the boiler, that is something else, not possible to say what from that pic. It's possible that a leak has developed elsewhere if the pressure is too high. 
Yes, it is possible that the pressure gauge is faulty and does not move when the pressure is increased or decreased, which is why I've suggested that you bleed the rad to see if the pressure comes down. If it doesn't, then the gauge is stuck or faulty. 

[Deleted User]

Ok I'll try bleeding radiators and see if pressure goes down thanks Macmam 

macman

You only need to bleed one. You're not releasing air, just dropping the pressure back to the correct level, around one bar. Then make sure the filling loop valves are both closed, and monitor the pressure. If it rises or falls, then something else is affecting it, which needs an RGI to investigate. And not with a large spanner...
If the gauge moves down in response to being bled, then clearly it is working, despite what spanner-man said.
Let us know how it goes.

chris_n

That's a thermostatic blending valve, nothing to do with your problem though the leak needs fixing.

[Deleted User]

Thanks both of you for your advice much appreciated. I bled one radiator earlier and gauge moved down a bit but still nothing just red flashing light.

A boiler Engineer just came, it was a different guy to Friday. He seemed to know a little more of what he was doing. He spent more time looking at boiler than first guy. He spent alot of time reading instructions for boiler and looking at wiring diagrams for boiler.

He checked all wiring, at first he thought it was fan because he could not hear fan at first and pump was getting hot.

But after wiggling pressure switch he managed to get boiler to jump back to life. So he is convinced that it's the pressure switch and said they will order one and come back and fit it

So Boiler is working right now but he says pump still feels hot.

Should pump be hot?. He has put covers back on boiler and left boiler on and says we can use it. But is it safe to use if pump is getting hot? 
I don't know how long boiler will stay working for, I'm not imaging long.

Secondly Despite boiler working right now we still have no hot water downstairs. There is hot water upstairs.

The boiler Engineer tried to claim it can't be a boiler problem if we have hot water upstairs and said it must be a plumbing problem.

Both hot taps downstairs have been replaced already to rule out taps. Also I've tried turning off hot water to kitchen tap under sink and then tried turning on hot tap in downstairs bathroom to also rule out tap or plumbing under sink in kitchen but no hot water in downstairs bathroom. I've then done it the other way Turing off hot water to downstairs bathroom tap under sink and trying kitchen tap but no hot water. So I'm sure it's not a plumbing problem.

When I turn on kitchen hot tap or down stairs hot tap boiler does not kick in at all. And just get freezing cold water.

Could it be diverter valve as I've read that if diverter valve goes you might get hot water to nearest taps which would most likely be taps in upstairs bathroom which is in room right above boiler but no hot water to taps further away.

I asked boiler engineer if it could be diverter valve and he wouldn't even look or check just  insisted it must be a plumbing problem.

Also when I pointed out part dripping water he would not look at it, was not interested at all.

Sorry for so many questions.

chris_n

Possibly a flow switch problem,  taps furthest away could have more frictional losses especially if you have valves on them that are not full bore valves or not fully open.

FreeBear

The CH pump is what pushes all the hot water through the pipes to the radiators. It goes without saying that the pump will get hot. However, it should never get hotter than the water it is pumping. The electric motor should also remain a bit cooler - How much depends on the design and materials used.