Freeing stuck radiator valves

Manxman_in_exile

Haven't bothered for years to turn radiators off in rooms we don't use, but with the rise in energy costs decided I ought to look at doing so this year.

Of course I've found that some of these are stuck and I can't free them.  Looking at some tips on Youtube the first thing to try is WD40 to try to free them up.

Is that the best bet before I resort to getting a plumber to look at them?  Anything I need to be careful about?

They're the traditional lockshield (is that right?) valves, not thermostatic.

Thanks

bengalknights

Yep WD40 and a adjustable spanner usually does the trick

Ebe_Scrooge

bengalknights said:

Yep WD40 and a adjustable spanner usually does the trick

Agreed.  One tip - if you can use an open-ended spanner, or mole-grips, or pliers, or whatever, to support the pipe as you're trying to turn the valve, this can help prevent the pipework from being moved, if you see what I mean.  The last thing you want is to be moving or bending the pipe itself and causing a leak at one of the joints.

Section62

Manxman_in_exile said:

They're the traditional lockshield (is that right?) valves, not thermostatic.

Most radiators have two valves - one is set correctly to balance the system and has a 'lockshield' top. The cap is smooth and round, and is designed to be difficult to adjust the valve without removing the cap. Ideally you shouldn't turn that one off, or adjust it, unless you are rebalancing the system or need to remove the radiator.

The other valve will be manual or thermostatic - the cap of a manual valve will be ribbed or a "+" form to make it easier to turn.

If you need to use spanners to get the valve to move then be extremely careful you don't damage anything - and be prepared for some leakage.  Extra care is necessary if you have to use a spanner to open the valve, as with some designs the valve mechansim will unscrew from the valve body... in which case two spanners will be needed.

Manxman_in_exile

Thanks all.

Yes - so far I've been quite careful in the amount of force I've applied and made sure I'm not likely to damage the rest of the valve or any pipework.

I'll try some WD40.  If a couple of applications doesn't work I'll speak to a plumber.

Thanks again

PS  -  I'm aware from Youtube that one of the valves is for balancing the system and shouldn't be touched unless you are re-balancing the system.  I just hope that over the years the two plastic caps haven't got swapped around inadvertantly!  Before watching Youtube I wouldn't have realised they served different functions.  But all the "on/off" valves are on the same side of the radiators and I think it makes sense for them all to be on the same side.

Mutton_Geoff

Manxman_in_exile said:

Thanks all.

Yes - so far I've been quite careful in the amount of force I've applied and made sure I'm not likely to damage the rest of the valve or any pipework.

I'll try some WD40.  If a couple of applications doesn't work I'll speak to a plumber.

Thanks again

PS  -  I'm aware from Youtube that one of the valves is for balancing the system and shouldn't be touched unless you are re-balancing the system.  I just hope that over the years the two plastic caps haven't got swapped around inadvertantly!  Before watching Youtube I wouldn't have realised they served different functions.  But all the "on/off" valves are on the same side of the radiators and I think it makes sense for them all to be on the same side.

Start the heating from cold then run round the house and check which of the rad pipes gets hot first. That is the flow pipe, the other being the return. The control/thermostat usually goes on the flow side, the lockshield on the return. You only need to turn one end (the control) off to stop the rad working, but like the water main tap under your kitchen sink, it's always best to exercise the valves from time to time otherwise, as you found, they stick.

ss2020jd

I’ve just done this recently with some wd40 and I found this video really helpful it’s clear and simple and it worked. Just take care to not damage the valve or pipe work, as others have said. 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zOqb7Wuw-Sc&feature=youtu.be

Bendy_House

Hi Manx.

As Mutt says, find out which side gets hot first - that's the flow, and should ideally be the side with the control valve.

Meanwhile, if you really aren't sure which one is the 'control' and which the 'lockshield', then treat them both as the latter. Ie, before turning them, mark on the spindle side, or attach with tape a paper flag, so that you can return the spindle to the exact same position afterwards. Ultimately, only the lockshield will need returning like this, as the control valve is there to be twiddled at will.

Anyhoo, one thing I'd add to the above advice re WD40, is - if a spindle is really stiff - to be prepared to also slacken the brass nut wot surrounds it. If you undo that even just a half-turn (note how far you turn it), it should take the pressure off the spindle, and help break the bond that's preventing it from turning. It should also allow the WD40 to get further down the spindle shaft.

The way it works is that there's a rubber washer/seal under that nut, and the spindle passes through it. As that nut is tightened down, the rubber washer is squished more flat, so tries to go more widthways - that makes the hole for the spindle smaller and tighter. If you slacken that nut a half or one turn, it'll release this pressure on the spindle. So, I'd soak the spindle with WD40, but also try slackened that nut - even if just to slacken and retighten a few times. Once free, give the spindle a few good turns back and forth whilst adding more WD40, and - if you have slackened that nut - redo it to where it was.

Mutton_Geoff

WD40 comes up a lot in this, and other posts. It's not the panacea people think it is as WD40 stands for water displacement (their 40th attempt at a formula). You're better off with a penetrant like Plus Gas, GT85 or, even one made by the WD40 firm themselves. These products better suited at working their way down into the seized parts of metal components. 

FreeBear

Mutton_Geoff said: WD40 comes up a lot in this, and other posts. It's not the panacea people think it is

And another problem that WD40 has, is it can cause (some types) of rubber seals to swell and degrade.

JohnB47

Sorry to join in with the negativity but as a long time DIYer, I've tried WD40 to try loosening stuck or rusted nuts bolts etc. on many occasions and never once found it if any use. 

When I've eventually dismantled items, usually by cutting them apart, I discover that the WD40 hasn't penetrated at all