Internal Door for Bathroom – Primed enough?

paperclap

Hi all,

So long story short, we’ve got the Mrs’ parents coming over in a couple of days to stay for a few days.

So in a mad rush to give them the obvious needed privacy in the bathroom, I’ve hung the bathroom door.

Its a pre-primed door from Wickes. After trimming and bevelling the edges, I’ve coated the edges with one coat of Zinsser BIN primer-sealer. See photo. In hindsight, a few small areas of bevel missed.

If I now hang it, will this be sufficient to prevent any moisture damaging the door when they steam up the place while showering? Don’t have time to undercoat/topcoat with satin!

Thanks!

FreeBear

Modern water based paints are usually touch dry in around 15 minutes and hardened off in about four hours. Put another coat of primer on, and then a top coat an hour later. Tomorrow, rehang the door.

paperclap

FreeBear said:

Modern water based paints are usually touch dry in around 15 minutes and hardened off in about four hours. Put another coat of primer on, and then a top coat an hour later. Tomorrow, rehang the door.

That’s great and all, but I don’t have time (working!)

I could prime again. But, is it needed? Other than the sides which I’ve trimmed, isn’t that the whole point of pre-primed doors?

Storminmike1

paperclap said:

FreeBear said:

Modern water based paints are usually touch dry in around 15 minutes and hardened off in about four hours. Put another coat of primer on, and then a top coat an hour later. Tomorrow, rehang the door.

That’s great and all, but I don’t have time (working!)

I could prime again. But, is it needed? Other than the sides which I’ve trimmed, isn’t that the whole point of pre-primed doors?

IMO you can go straight from Zinsser BIN to top coat, I know because Ive done about 7 doors that way. That stuff dries super quick and given Id say an hour for it to flash off you'd be ready to use a satin top coat. Ideally if you had patience and were using it for the whole surface as i did to rid stains leave it a day to fully harden. Give the top coat 4 or 5 hours then hang....or Zinsser it, give it an hour then hang, quick light sand and paint it.

paperclap

Storminmike1 said:

paperclap said:

FreeBear said:

Modern water based paints are usually touch dry in around 15 minutes and hardened off in about four hours. Put another coat of primer on, and then a top coat an hour later. Tomorrow, rehang the door.

That’s great and all, but I don’t have time (working!)

I could prime again. But, is it needed? Other than the sides which I’ve trimmed, isn’t that the whole point of pre-primed doors?

IMO you can go straight from Zinsser BIN to top coat, I know because Ive done about 7 doors that way. That stuff dries super quick and given Id say an hour for it to flash off you'd be ready to use a satin top coat. Ideally if you had patience and were using it for the whole surface as i did to rid stains leave it a day to fully harden. Give the top coat 4 or 5 hours then hang....or Zinsser it, give it an hour then hang, quick light sand and paint it.

So did you get pre-primed doors, then simply give the sides one coat of Zinsser BIN?

Then satinwood?

casper_gutman

paperclap said:

So did you get pre-primed doors, then simply give the sides one coat of Zinsser BIN?

Then satinwood?

Don't know about Storminmike1, but that's certainly what I did.

It's possible the door would survive a few days of use without the top coat, but I'd really want to get at least one, ideally two top coats on the edges and on the inside of the bathroom door before any steamy showers. You can always give it a light sand and another top coat when the in-laws have gone again!

Bendy_House

PC, don't panic. Your folks are only staying for a few days - what damage can they do in that time?!

Your shower room has an extractor, yes? Cool.

When you come to top-coating (after they have left), you really should ensure every bit of untreated bevel is primed first - even current water-based paints want this. Exceptions are, tho', specialist paints like Zinsser AllCoat paints. Man, I'm a convert

With AllCoat, first coat is applied thinly and will seal and prime just about anything. Subsequent coats will go on top beautifully. 

Only issue I've had with it is that (like most W-B paints) it will dry quickly in warm conditions, so it can be hard to keep a wet edge. So, keep things cool, man.

(Did mil's outside window frames in white satin. Straight over fresh filler, bare timber, and old (clean) paint. Bought a tin of anthracite, and completely rejuvenated the bumper, grill, wheel arches of an aging Transit minibus. Looks like bludy new. Awesome stuff )

When you do your doors, do yourself a favour and remove Tham and lay the flat if possible. This will give you the best access to the edges, and also prevent runs. The bottom edge of the door does need to be well sealed/protected, as and condensation that may form will most likely end up landing on these vulnerable edges - like the one you left unprimed

But, for a few days, I wouldn't worry - unless one of your in-laws is really sloppy or splashes it about...

paperclap

Oh well !!!!!!. I’ve just given one face, the bevels and edges a first coat of satinwood…! Hopefully those partially unprimed bevels will be fine!