heating the house

BUFF

Agusya said:

BUFF said:

200mm loft insulation isn't current recommendation but it's not  bad.
Where exactly in Scotland (the mainland alone is 275 miles N to S & conditions on the W coast are different from E coast)?
You would be surprised how many people don't understand their heating systems/know how to use their controls properly.

What type of design are your rads (e.g.single/double panel, with fins or without)?
I don't suppose that you know their design output?
 63"x20" is a big rad in terms of wall space - if it's a type 22/K2 that's ~8000+BTU, if it's a single panel it could be ~4400BTU. Quite a difference.

I dont think its 200mm actually I think its less, I will need to dig out home report
I live in Lanarkshire (between Glasgow and Edinburgh) 
downstairs radiators are like the regular thick ones . https://www.allstarsystems.co.uk/blog/energy-efficiency-variances-panel-convector-radiators -> like more or less the one on the right. upstairs (bedrooms) the ones on the left 

Just how big is this sitting room? 2x 63"x20" K2s should give over 16,000BTUs! Can you please confirm if they are double panel and double or single finned?

Similarly, can you confirm if your upstair radiators are single panel or single panel with fins?  Obviously they will have less output for a given size than doubles. 

Also, when you take your Salus controller/stat to a room with you do you open the TRV(s) in that room to max for the period that you are there?

p.s. you were asking if it would be better to turn your radiator flow temp up from 75C. If you are concerned about cost it actually makes more sense to turn it down (to say 70C) & run for longer as that would increase condensing & therefore boiler efficiency.
It's a balancing act between cost & comfort/convenience (which is why I earlier asked bout your lifestyle) & every building/system/person is different.

Agusya

BUFF said:

Agusya said:

BUFF said:

200mm loft insulation isn't current recommendation but it's not  bad.
Where exactly in Scotland (the mainland alone is 275 miles N to S & conditions on the W coast are different from E coast)?
You would be surprised how many people don't understand their heating systems/know how to use their controls properly.

What type of design are your rads (e.g.single/double panel, with fins or without)?
I don't suppose that you know their design output?
 63"x20" is a big rad in terms of wall space - if it's a type 22/K2 that's ~8000+BTU, if it's a single panel it could be ~4400BTU. Quite a difference.

I dont think its 200mm actually I think its less, I will need to dig out home report
I live in Lanarkshire (between Glasgow and Edinburgh) 
downstairs radiators are like the regular thick ones . https://www.allstarsystems.co.uk/blog/energy-efficiency-variances-panel-convector-radiators -> like more or less the one on the right. upstairs (bedrooms) the ones on the left 

Just how big is this sitting room? 2x 63"x20" K2s should give over 16,000BTUs! Can you please confirm if they are double panel and double or single finned?

Similarly, can you confirm if your upstair radiators are single panel or single panel with fins?  Obviously they will have less output for a given size than doubles. 

Also, when you take your Salus controller/stat to a room with you do you open the TRV(s) in that room to max for the period that you are there?

p.s. you were asking if it would be better to turn your radiator flow temp up from 75C. If you are concerned about cost it actually makes more sense to turn it down (to say 70C) & run for longer as that would increase condensing & therefore boiler efficiency.
It's a balancing act between cost & comfort/convenience (which is why I earlier asked bout your lifestyle) & every building/system/person is different.

Ive sent a link showing radiators and I said what I have , no idea what fins radiators have. 
I will measure living room when Im at home , its a big one where you can fit 3 seater sofa , PC,coffee table ,6 seat table and it doesnt look cramped . 2 large windows
So at night I have controller there (set to 16.5 cos that when I sleep best) and radiator on full . If I was in a living room I would have controller there and also radiator on full. 
I didint ask for turning my temp flow up or I wasnt asking questions about it at all. I can put it down but from experience I can say radiators would not get that hot and it will take ages (even more ages than now) to heat up the room. 
I really know how things work . Literally the only question I had was should I have few radiators running at the same time or only the room which Im in. I got the answer. Now trying to figure out why heat coming from radiators is worst than when using electric heater 1200watt

Agusya

Bendy_House said:

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

*salus thermostat model is RT510TX That's a Prog Stat, so good.
 

So, with the boiler running, when you turn a TRV on any rad up to 4 or 5, do they get HOT?

* I've had both living room radiators on for 15 min now and its hot - I cant really hold my hand on it for more than few seconds .63'' / 20'' size of this one which works well. its under the window Temperature didnt go up at all. the other radiator (1 '' bigger) with the possible goo isnt hot hot.

Living room is large and has 2 big windows on each end. 
all other radiators are super hot . So all radiators work fine except one in living room and one in the hall. In a bedroom (small bedroom it is) also radiator is very hot and its been 20 min I went there to check and its not even close to how warm it would be already if I had electric heater on during that time. 
As I said it takes forever to heat up living room and temperature doesnt even go higher than 20 (or 19 if its really really cold outside) 

Is there a magnetic filter installed (have a look at the pipes under the boiler - is there a 'thing' fitted to one of the 22mm pipes?)

* I cant see anything on pipes there

*  In theory, when the boiler was fitted, the installers should have ensured that the system was 'clean', so you shouldn't really have any blockages in the pipes.

Im guessing they didnt as they havent noticed hall radiator not working (and they put on it the TRV which supposed to be on all the time)  and they havent noticed or ignored that one radiator in the living room has probably some goo inside as only top half heats up. I wasnt bothered with it at the time (when I discovered it) and I looked into and removing it isnt cheap. 
Is it possible that the broken radiator in the hall isnt working cos of blocked narrow pipe and its next to the living room so it doesnt get good flow to living room radiators? 

What should I do now? How can I improve it and is it even possible without better insulation ? 

Well, insulation is always key. A poorly insulated house is always going to be hard to heat, and very costly to try. Hard to know what else you can try of significance, tho' - you have decent loft insul, and cavity too? Double-glazed? Q - is your house draughty? That's a biggie (and not helped if internal doors are left open).

Anyhoo, these radiators... You have TWO rads in your living room. One is 1600mm wide x 500mm high, and the other is fractionally larger. Can you tell us if they have a single 'panel' or two? And how many sets of 'fins' are fixed to their backs?

Ok, here's the issue wot doesn't add up: You tell us that a 1.2kW electric heater works effectively? And yet the slimmest (ie single-panel) of 1600mm rads outputs more than this - 1300W - and you have TWO of them in that room!

If these rads have two panels - a double rad - then each should output 1800W, waaay more than your electric heater. And if the rads are double and double-finned, they'll chuck out around 2.3kW EACH, so roughly 4 times the total heat of that leccy heater.

You understand why I'm confused?

Ok, one rad doesn't get properly hot? That's with its TRV fully open? Ok, go to the other valve on that rad (it's called a 'lockshield'), remove the loose cap, and turn the spindle anti-clockwise an EXACT full turn (ie, more open). ('Exact', so that you can return it to where it was if needed). Does that rad now heat up fully?

Ditto the hallways rad - open the TRV fully, and the other valve by a full one turn. Any difference?

If that makes no difference, return the lockshields to where they were, and call a plumber...

double glazed windows and dont have drafts , well for british standards no drafts . Ive already have shut spare bedroom and left it tiny bit open and I close kitchen when I go to work or sleep 
Ive explained kind of radiators I have in another post. 
Im also confused 
Im gonna have a look at the valve when I get home. What else I need to check except for that lockshield? 

thanks!!

BUFF

Your link is not good enough to identify hence further questions.

Agusya said:

radiator temp is set at 75 and water at 60
should it be higher than 75?
It does heat up faster when instead of using a thermostat device, I just switch on heating on the boiler ,to overwrite what thermostat says. it heats up harder, Im guessing using more gas?

Bendy_House

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

*salus thermostat model is RT510TX That's a Prog Stat, so good.
 

So, with the boiler running, when you turn a TRV on any rad up to 4 or 5, do they get HOT?

* I've had both living room radiators on for 15 min now and its hot - I cant really hold my hand on it for more than few seconds .63'' / 20'' size of this one which works well. its under the window Temperature didnt go up at all. the other radiator (1 '' bigger) with the possible goo isnt hot hot.

Living room is large and has 2 big windows on each end. 
all other radiators are super hot . So all radiators work fine except one in living room and one in the hall. In a bedroom (small bedroom it is) also radiator is very hot and its been 20 min I went there to check and its not even close to how warm it would be already if I had electric heater on during that time. 
As I said it takes forever to heat up living room and temperature doesnt even go higher than 20 (or 19 if its really really cold outside) 

Is there a magnetic filter installed (have a look at the pipes under the boiler - is there a 'thing' fitted to one of the 22mm pipes?)

* I cant see anything on pipes there

*  In theory, when the boiler was fitted, the installers should have ensured that the system was 'clean', so you shouldn't really have any blockages in the pipes.

Im guessing they didnt as they havent noticed hall radiator not working (and they put on it the TRV which supposed to be on all the time)  and they havent noticed or ignored that one radiator in the living room has probably some goo inside as only top half heats up. I wasnt bothered with it at the time (when I discovered it) and I looked into and removing it isnt cheap. 
Is it possible that the broken radiator in the hall isnt working cos of blocked narrow pipe and its next to the living room so it doesnt get good flow to living room radiators? 

What should I do now? How can I improve it and is it even possible without better insulation ? 

Well, insulation is always key. A poorly insulated house is always going to be hard to heat, and very costly to try. Hard to know what else you can try of significance, tho' - you have decent loft insul, and cavity too? Double-glazed? Q - is your house draughty? That's a biggie (and not helped if internal doors are left open).

Anyhoo, these radiators... You have TWO rads in your living room. One is 1600mm wide x 500mm high, and the other is fractionally larger. Can you tell us if they have a single 'panel' or two? And how many sets of 'fins' are fixed to their backs?

Ok, here's the issue wot doesn't add up: You tell us that a 1.2kW electric heater works effectively? And yet the slimmest (ie single-panel) of 1600mm rads outputs more than this - 1300W - and you have TWO of them in that room!

If these rads have two panels - a double rad - then each should output 1800W, waaay more than your electric heater. And if the rads are double and double-finned, they'll chuck out around 2.3kW EACH, so roughly 4 times the total heat of that leccy heater.

You understand why I'm confused?

Ok, one rad doesn't get properly hot? That's with its TRV fully open? Ok, go to the other valve on that rad (it's called a 'lockshield'), remove the loose cap, and turn the spindle anti-clockwise an EXACT full turn (ie, more open). ('Exact', so that you can return it to where it was if needed). Does that rad now heat up fully?

Ditto the hallways rad - open the TRV fully, and the other valve by a full one turn. Any difference?

If that makes no difference, return the lockshields to where they were, and call a plumber...

double glazed windows and dont have drafts , well for british standards no drafts . Ive already have shut spare bedroom and left it tiny bit open and I close kitchen when I go to work or sleep 
Ive explained kind of radiators I have in another post. 
Im also confused 
Im gonna have a look at the valve when I get home. What else I need to check except for that lockshield? 

thanks!!

Could you post a photo of a miscreant rad, please? And show the valve at each end. We can then guide you through some things to check.

Agusya

Bendy_House said:

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

*salus thermostat model is RT510TX That's a Prog Stat, so good.
 

So, with the boiler running, when you turn a TRV on any rad up to 4 or 5, do they get HOT?

* I've had both living room radiators on for 15 min now and its hot - I cant really hold my hand on it for more than few seconds .63'' / 20'' size of this one which works well. its under the window Temperature didnt go up at all. the other radiator (1 '' bigger) with the possible goo isnt hot hot.

Living room is large and has 2 big windows on each end. 
all other radiators are super hot . So all radiators work fine except one in living room and one in the hall. In a bedroom (small bedroom it is) also radiator is very hot and its been 20 min I went there to check and its not even close to how warm it would be already if I had electric heater on during that time. 
As I said it takes forever to heat up living room and temperature doesnt even go higher than 20 (or 19 if its really really cold outside) 

Is there a magnetic filter installed (have a look at the pipes under the boiler - is there a 'thing' fitted to one of the 22mm pipes?)

* I cant see anything on pipes there

*  In theory, when the boiler was fitted, the installers should have ensured that the system was 'clean', so you shouldn't really have any blockages in the pipes.

Im guessing they didnt as they havent noticed hall radiator not working (and they put on it the TRV which supposed to be on all the time)  and they havent noticed or ignored that one radiator in the living room has probably some goo inside as only top half heats up. I wasnt bothered with it at the time (when I discovered it) and I looked into and removing it isnt cheap. 
Is it possible that the broken radiator in the hall isnt working cos of blocked narrow pipe and its next to the living room so it doesnt get good flow to living room radiators? 

What should I do now? How can I improve it and is it even possible without better insulation ? 

Well, insulation is always key. A poorly insulated house is always going to be hard to heat, and very costly to try. Hard to know what else you can try of significance, tho' - you have decent loft insul, and cavity too? Double-glazed? Q - is your house draughty? That's a biggie (and not helped if internal doors are left open).

Anyhoo, these radiators... You have TWO rads in your living room. One is 1600mm wide x 500mm high, and the other is fractionally larger. Can you tell us if they have a single 'panel' or two? And how many sets of 'fins' are fixed to their backs?

Ok, here's the issue wot doesn't add up: You tell us that a 1.2kW electric heater works effectively? And yet the slimmest (ie single-panel) of 1600mm rads outputs more than this - 1300W - and you have TWO of them in that room!

If these rads have two panels - a double rad - then each should output 1800W, waaay more than your electric heater. And if the rads are double and double-finned, they'll chuck out around 2.3kW EACH, so roughly 4 times the total heat of that leccy heater.

You understand why I'm confused?

Ok, one rad doesn't get properly hot? That's with its TRV fully open? Ok, go to the other valve on that rad (it's called a 'lockshield'), remove the loose cap, and turn the spindle anti-clockwise an EXACT full turn (ie, more open). ('Exact', so that you can return it to where it was if needed). Does that rad now heat up fully?

Ditto the hallways rad - open the TRV fully, and the other valve by a full one turn. Any difference?

If that makes no difference, return the lockshields to where they were, and call a plumber...

double glazed windows and dont have drafts , well for british standards no drafts . Ive already have shut spare bedroom and left it tiny bit open and I close kitchen when I go to work or sleep 
Ive explained kind of radiators I have in another post. 
Im also confused 
Im gonna have a look at the valve when I get home. What else I need to check except for that lockshield? 

thanks!!

Could you post a photo of a miscreant rad, please? And show the valve at each end. We can then guide you through some things to check.

Bendy_House said:

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

Agusya said:

Bendy_House said:

*salus thermostat model is RT510TX That's a Prog Stat, so good.
 

So, with the boiler running, when you turn a TRV on any rad up to 4 or 5, do they get HOT?

* I've had both living room radiators on for 15 min now and its hot - I cant really hold my hand on it for more than few seconds .63'' / 20'' size of this one which works well. its under the window Temperature didnt go up at all. the other radiator (1 '' bigger) with the possible goo isnt hot hot.

Living room is large and has 2 big windows on each end. 
all other radiators are super hot . So all radiators work fine except one in living room and one in the hall. In a bedroom (small bedroom it is) also radiator is very hot and its been 20 min I went there to check and its not even close to how warm it would be already if I had electric heater on during that time. 
As I said it takes forever to heat up living room and temperature doesnt even go higher than 20 (or 19 if its really really cold outside) 

Is there a magnetic filter installed (have a look at the pipes under the boiler - is there a 'thing' fitted to one of the 22mm pipes?)

* I cant see anything on pipes there

*  In theory, when the boiler was fitted, the installers should have ensured that the system was 'clean', so you shouldn't really have any blockages in the pipes.

Im guessing they didnt as they havent noticed hall radiator not working (and they put on it the TRV which supposed to be on all the time)  and they havent noticed or ignored that one radiator in the living room has probably some goo inside as only top half heats up. I wasnt bothered with it at the time (when I discovered it) and I looked into and removing it isnt cheap. 
Is it possible that the broken radiator in the hall isnt working cos of blocked narrow pipe and its next to the living room so it doesnt get good flow to living room radiators? 

What should I do now? How can I improve it and is it even possible without better insulation ? 

Well, insulation is always key. A poorly insulated house is always going to be hard to heat, and very costly to try. Hard to know what else you can try of significance, tho' - you have decent loft insul, and cavity too? Double-glazed? Q - is your house draughty? That's a biggie (and not helped if internal doors are left open).

Anyhoo, these radiators... You have TWO rads in your living room. One is 1600mm wide x 500mm high, and the other is fractionally larger. Can you tell us if they have a single 'panel' or two? And how many sets of 'fins' are fixed to their backs?

Ok, here's the issue wot doesn't add up: You tell us that a 1.2kW electric heater works effectively? And yet the slimmest (ie single-panel) of 1600mm rads outputs more than this - 1300W - and you have TWO of them in that room!

If these rads have two panels - a double rad - then each should output 1800W, waaay more than your electric heater. And if the rads are double and double-finned, they'll chuck out around 2.3kW EACH, so roughly 4 times the total heat of that leccy heater.

You understand why I'm confused?

Ok, one rad doesn't get properly hot? That's with its TRV fully open? Ok, go to the other valve on that rad (it's called a 'lockshield'), remove the loose cap, and turn the spindle anti-clockwise an EXACT full turn (ie, more open). ('Exact', so that you can return it to where it was if needed). Does that rad now heat up fully?

Ditto the hallways rad - open the TRV fully, and the other valve by a full one turn. Any difference?

If that makes no difference, return the lockshields to where they were, and call a plumber...

double glazed windows and dont have drafts , well for british standards no drafts . Ive already have shut spare bedroom and left it tiny bit open and I close kitchen when I go to work or sleep 
Ive explained kind of radiators I have in another post. 
Im also confused 
Im gonna have a look at the valve when I get home. What else I need to check except for that lockshield? 

thanks!!

Could you post a photo of a miscreant rad, please? And show the valve at each end. We can then guide you through some things to check.

Ok im enclosing photos of hall radiator the one which meant to be on all the time but isnt working and living room one

BUFF

The TRV is on the "frost" setting, is that where you normally have it?

For the hall I would check that both lockshields are open (at least partially).

Agusya

BUFF said:

The TRV is on the "frost" setting, is that where you normally have it?

when heating is off yes

BUFF

If the heating is off it doesn't matter what setting as it (Danfoss RAS-C?) is a "dumb" thermostat - it can't call for heat from the boiler.

shiraz99

Agusya said:

BUFF said:

The TRV is on the "frost" setting, is that where you normally have it?

when heating is off yes

What's the point of that? I've not read the whole of this thread but I think you biggest problem is you keep messing around with TRVs and your room thermostat. They need setting and leaving alone.