How to turn my Port Laurel into a tree?

Bendy_House

Hi all.

I'm about to plant a Portuguese Laurel, which is currently around 5+ feet tall. I'll be keeping its ultimate height to around, ooh, 15', and by then would like it to look like a 'tree'. Ie, a trunk - say around 1m to 1.5m high (yes, mixing my units :-(  )  - with a natural canopy above, not a 'ball' but a natural branchy thing. You know, like a 'tree'.

It currently looks like this:

and I'd like it to look a bit like this:

if even more 'straggly'/ branchy.

My Qs are, please:

1) How do I give it a trunk?! I guess it's by trimming off any lower branches, but that leads to some more Qs...

2) If it's currently 5' tall, and I wish it to be 15' tall with a, say, 4-5' trunk, how far up do I de-branch/twig it at the moment?

3) When do I snip off the unwanted? Can I start now?

4) Will trimming off the lower branches/twigs help it grow faster?!

5) Anything else I should be considering when doing this?

Thanks! :-)

twopenny

I think the first thing you need is patience......
The first year after planting it will stay much the same. It will be making roots. Sorry.

1) Yes

2) You don't. Let it get a grip on life. If the lower shoots grow more you can prune them back to where they were. Use a diagonal cut with sharp implement to a new leaf or set of leaves.

3)No. You would be removing the leaves which make food for it so it will sulk and grow slower.

4) See 3

5) plant them now while the soil is warm and damp. Add a little bonemeal (see box)  to encourage root growth but don't let it touch the roots or it will burn them.

Plant them, let them get established, 2nd year they will start to put on foliage growth. Still keep some leaves on the stem. 3rd year should see top growth. It should start to shoot upwards. Then you can take the first lot of bottom leaves off - maybe even 2or 3.

If you are impatient the growth will be slower.
It's a living thing that is going to get a shock with transplanting. Square hole, loosen the soil at the bottom, the top of the soil should be level with the top of the compost it's in or an inch or so lower.
Use a stake hammered in. Tie tree to it. Old socks are good. Cut a ring then cut to make length you can tie. Soft and strong. Don't damage the bark in strong winds.

Good luck 

Eldi_Dos

1: Get two round untreated posts.

2: Choose location for planting an then plant 1m further away from fences.

3: Dig hole and hammer in two posts about 150/200mm outside hole and then plant tree.

4: Do not do anything but water plant for first season.

5: April 2024 start to prune bottom branches out, with good secateurs or my preference a junior hacksaw only used for this
(as infection control). Take out about three layers of bottom branches.If using hacksaw cut from bottom upwards through branch.I find this leaves less of a scar on trunk.

6: Every April do the same till you are able to walk under tree without head hitting branches.

7: Once tree begins to top fence get a vulcanised tree support and attach to posts.Some use a cross plank between the two posts to attach tree support. As tree grows adjust support so it is not too tight. You can even raise support as tree height increases.

8; There is a train of thought that young tree trunks thicken up quicker if left unsupported for first couple of seasons.

9: With a pair of gloves on run your hand up and down trunk a few times each season to knock off any buds that will form new branches.

10: Keep well watered first few seasons.

11: Once untreated posts have rotted they have done their job.

12: DG Hessayon, Tree and Shrub Expert is great for advice and for helping to id any  that you see when out and about.

Sorry post is a bit long winded.

Bendy_House

2'penny and Eldi - fab, thank you, and not long-winded at all.

All good stuff.

Patience, eh? Pah...

Now, what glue do you recommend to reattach a few wee branches already removed...

(Half-kidding - it's on another, already-planted tree, and only a couple of ground-scraping twigs. Honest...)

twopenny

Ground scraping is ok.......as long as they aren't 3ft off the ground 

You could always do one your way and the other the right way.

You may end up with the same size -  or long and short - or two pompoms - or two stragglers.

Keep yourself busy by measuring them every week. Do not take any cuttig implements with you when you do so.

Bendy_House

twopenny said:

Ground scraping is ok.......as long as they aren't 3ft off the ground 

You could always do one your way and the other the right way.

You may end up with the same size -  or long and short - or two pompoms - or two stragglers.

Keep yourself busy by measuring them every week. Do not take any cuttig implements with you when you do so.

My level of self-restraint has been exposed on this forum, then... :-(

Ta - good idea. One can afford to be 'tackled' a bit more than the other. :-)

twopenny

I'm thinking you are excellent with inanimate objects.

Living things- we may find out 

Bendy_House

I've been sussed

Woolsery

I don't like to interfere, but good though Portuguese laurel is, I'd prefer Cotoneaster lacteus for its berries. I grew one in my old Dad's small garden and it was easy to maintain. It did look a bit like a lollpop at times, but that was just Dad making sure it 'didn't get away' from him.

Bendy_House

All 'interference' welcome, Woolsery.

It needs to be able to go higher than a Cl, tho' - a good 15' at least.

Woolsery

Bendy_House said:

All 'interference' welcome, Woolsery.

It needs to be able to go higher than a Cl, tho' - a good 15' at least.

I can also recommend Cotoneaster cornubia then, though it's not 100% evergreen. Had one in my old garden and it did a great screening job. Redwings used to pillage the berries in winter and reward me with seedlings from other people's species. I still have a hedge made from what the birds deposited, some of it deciduous and some virtually evergreen.

https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/131692/cotoneaster-cornubia/details