DIY plumbing - a few helpful hints!

jonnydeppiwish!

So having just plumbed out a utility room, I have a few helpful hints for those who wish to give diy plumbing a go.

Know where the stopcock is before you start anything! 

Speedfit is very, very simple. Just remember to use the inserts for the pipe before you put connections on. Also, don’t forget to tighten the speedfit fittings. Isolator valves are a must for each applicable/tap connection.

As for waste pipe, if you connecting much more than a hand basin, then use a 40mm pipe.

Pushfit waste piping and connections aren’t particularly great - use solvent to seal the connections. Pipe clips screwed to the wall prevent any sagging in the pipe work which could lead to pooling of water.

This just my experience, others may feel differently!

wrf12345

I use plastic piping with brass compression connections, seven years on no leaks or problems - the plastic is great for long runs as you don't need joints but the plastic connectors are not easy to fit if you go through a wall and can't hold the opposite side. I always do a test fit and put a bit of tape around the plastic so I know how far the pipe is supposed to be in the connector, to make sure it has not slipped out when tightened down as you really need three hands to do it properly, otherwise.

MarvinDay

IMO, two of the most important things to know about DIY plumbing are the locations of your incoming stopcock and any shut off valves in the system and more importantly, making sure that all of these operate correctly before starting to dismantle any pipes, unions, taps or appliances.  

It's not uncommon for stopcocks either to be totally seized up or not to totally stop the flow of water when operated due to a build up of calcium, lime or grit inside them and only finding this out when you need to operate it in an emergency could turn into a bit of n expensive nightmare. 

jonnydeppiwish!

wrf12345 said:

I use plastic piping with brass compression connections, seven years on no leaks or problems - the plastic is great for long runs as you don't need joints but the plastic connectors are not easy to fit if you go through a wall and can't hold the opposite side. I always do a test fit and put a bit of tape around the plastic so I know how far the pipe is supposed to be in the connector, to make sure it has not slipped out when tightened down as you really need three hands to do it properly, otherwise.

Great bit of advice ref the tape - I will use that next time!

jonnydeppiwish!

MarvinDay said:

IMO, two of the most important things to know about DIY plumbing are the locations of your incoming stopcock and any shut off valves in the system and more importantly, making sure that all of these operate correctly before starting to dismantle any pipes, unions, taps or appliances.  

It's not uncommon for stopcocks either to be totally seized up or not to totally stop the flow of water when operated due to a build up of calcium, lime or grit inside them and only finding this out when you need to operate it in an emergency could turn into a bit of n expensive nightmare. 

Thanks A just added that to the top list 👍 

Bendy_House

jonnydeppiwish! said:

wrf12345 said:

I use plastic piping with brass compression connections, seven years on no leaks or problems - the plastic is great for long runs as you don't need joints but the plastic connectors are not easy to fit if you go through a wall and can't hold the opposite side. I always do a test fit and put a bit of tape around the plastic so I know how far the pipe is supposed to be in the connector, to make sure it has not slipped out when tightened down as you really need three hands to do it properly, otherwise.

Great bit of advice ref the tape - I will use that next time!

Or just a dab of a felt-tipped pen But, yes, certainly when starting out with plastic pipe, you really want to know that the pipe is fully inserted. After a while, you literally get to feel it.

Plastic pipe - and plastic fittings - are great. They only fail if something is done wrong. Just like anything else.

They are not very pretty, tho', so visible pipe runs should ideally still be made in copper - it's astonishing how the eye can sense a not-straight pipe run. For redoing our CH, I used plastic throughout (so few joints under the floorboards), but with copper tails coming up to each rad. So, copper into plastic is fine too, provided you de-burr thoroughly. And with the added advantage that they swivel even when done. Marvellous...

And then there's Cuprofit - simple to use and neat.

Alderbank

jonnydeppiwish! said:

Pushfit waste piping and connections aren’t particularly great - use solvent to seal the connections.

I agree about pushfit, but I recommend plastic compression joints for a beginner.
Solvent weld is like solder joints. If you don't get it right first time it will leak and be very hard to fix. Compression fittings are much more forgiving

jonnydeppiwish!

Bendy_House said:

jonnydeppiwish! said:

wrf12345 said:

I use plastic piping with brass compression connections, seven years on no leaks or problems - the plastic is great for long runs as you don't need joints but the plastic connectors are not easy to fit if you go through a wall and can't hold the opposite side. I always do a test fit and put a bit of tape around the plastic so I know how far the pipe is supposed to be in the connector, to make sure it has not slipped out when tightened down as you really need three hands to do it properly, otherwise.

Great bit of advice ref the tape - I will use that next time!

Or just a dab of a felt-tipped pen But, yes, certainly when starting out with plastic pipe, you really want to know that the pipe is fully inserted. After a while, you literally get to feel it.

Plastic pipe - and plastic fittings - are great. They only fail if something is done wrong. Just like anything else.

They are not very pretty, tho', so visible pipe runs should ideally still be made in copper - it's astonishing how the eye can sense a not-straight pipe run. For redoing our CH, I used plastic throughout (so few joints under the floorboards), but with copper tails coming up to each rad. 

And then there's Cuprofit - simple to use and neat.

Great idea about the tails!

haven’t tried cuprofit but will do when I replace the next rads - thanks!

Mr.Generous

Couple of tips from me, when doing pipework in a bathroom I stick a wrap of blue insulation tape on the cold and red tape on the hot, you think you'll remember which is which but not always.

Waste pipe runs, traps etc - natural angles is the thing, any forced angle joint is likely to weap. To achieve this under a bath or sink if the outlet is offset or something try the 3 bend method - put three elbows in, each one will allow you to alter the height and distance slightly - if space is tight a conversion elbow 3 bend is great. You won't believe the difference it makes. Three bends take you back to the same direction you started in, but it can be higher, lower, to the left or the right. You can match up a trap height / direction to any existing hole in the wall. Compression and push fit often weap on forced angles, and all traps are compression.