Leaking Isolator tap/valve

pointer77

Hello All, 

We have noticed a leak around the isolator tap or valve in the attached picture (white dial) As this is so old they aren't made anymore, so we have a modern equivalent to fit, however the pipes are rock solid and we cant pull them apart to remove the old and insert the new isolator.

Are we going to have to cut the pipe or are there seals in the isolator we can replace? We don't want to try anything as yet as if we disturb it, it might leak more!

Thanks in advance! 

jonnydeppiwish!

Is that copper pipe that’s been painted silver?

if so, you could cut the pipe but you’d possible leave yourself with a gap that’s too bing to put a new valve in.

is there any flex in the pipe as it exits to the right to enable you to pull it closer?

I personally would persevere with a pair of mole grips  to untighten each side, then replace. Should be able to use a 15mm push fit connection, just make sure the ends of the metal pipe work is smother with a bit of sand paper and the paint is removed.

jonnydeppiwish!

Obvious turn the main stopcock off first! Would be a simple job if you’ve got a basic diy ability.

grumbler

jonnydeppiwish! said:

Would be a simple job if you’ve got a basic diy ability.

Can be not that easy if you mean replacing the tap/valve and the pipes cannot move to the left/right.

Alderbank

Don't apply too much force to that rat's nest of solder joints. You could start off other leaks if any soldering is less than perfect.

Where does the horizontal pipe on the right disappear to? Does it go straight through the wall to an outside tap?
If so I would drain down, slacken the plastic collar on the RHS of the isolation valve then unfasten and pull the outside tap

nofoollikeold

A couple of thoughts:
1. What is the other side of the wall to the right of the isolation valve?  Is there enough room there to pull the pipe entering the right of the valve to be moved 40 to 50 mm?
2. Do you actually need an isolation valve there?  If not, you could:
2a. Slacken the valve nuts.
2b. Cut through the valve just inside the plastic nuts and remove the valve.
2c. Undo and remove the nuts.
2d. Use what is known as a slip coupler to reconnect the ends of the pipes.  E.g. Plumbers Mate item 24901500 or th soldered equivalent.  

Alderbank

nofoollikeold said:

A couple of thoughts:

2d. Use what is known as a slip coupler to reconnect the ends of the pipes.  E.g. Plumbers Mate item 24901500 or the soldered equivalent.  

Generally good advice.
However we are working here about 30mm from a 15mm soldered tee of unknown vintage. Unless the OP is a very experienced plumber, and I have the feeling they are not, I would not recommend a soldered joint.

pointer77

Alderbank said:

Don't apply too much force to that rat's nest of solder joints. You could start off other leaks if any soldering is less than perfect.

Where does the horizontal pipe on the right disappear to? Does it go straight through the wall to an outside tap?
If so I would drain down, slacken the plastic collar on the RHS of the isolation valve then unfasten and pull the outside tap

Hi all thanks for the suggestions so far! The pipe to the right goes to the outside tap I believe as on the outside wall, it's situated to the top right corner of the white box (where the water meter is) so as suggested on here maybe we can loosen the outside tap 

jonnydeppiwish!

grumbler said:

jonnydeppiwish! said:

Would be a simple job if you’ve got a basic diy ability.

Can be not that easy if you mean replacing the tap/valve and the pipes cannot move to the left/right.

It’s a simple diy job if you can loosen the valve and replace with a push fit. If you can’t, then it’s cutting the pipe and would probably be best with new copper to replace.

pointer77

The outside tap is cemented in and we aren't 100% confident in cutting the pipe so I think we will get someone in to be safe