OLD THREAD: Dribbling loo - how to get at the cistern

JohnB47

Eldi_Dos said:

Out of interest how to you isolate cistern?,is there access for this via panel marked 4.

No, no pipework for the cistern behind door 4. Probably comes directly up from kickboard level behind panel 3. I'll have a go at all this shortly.

TimSynths

My toilet does this occasionally and I have to replace a diaphragm, They usually last about 5 years, I've bought a few (Amazon) as they are cheap so as soon as it starts to do it again I can whip it out.

Dazed_and_C0nfused

If you're on a water meter don't leave it too long, your be surprised how much a small leak like that can add to your usage 😳

JohnB47

TimSynths said:

My toilet does this occasionally and I have to replace a diaphragm, They usually last about 5 years, I've bought a few (Amazon) as they are cheap so as soon as it starts to do it again I can whip it out.

Ok, ta. No idea where that goes but maybe I'll find out!

Cornucopia

I had something very similar in a previous property - and it was Panel 1 that was removable.   I wouldn't suggest trying to remove any of the other panels unless you absolutely have to (it will be messy).

In my case, the cistern had an isolator valve on the incoming pipework that was accessible once the top panel was removed.   The pushbutton will probably be on a plastic pull-wire mechanism, and may be easily detachable, too.   

In my case, I was able to replace the entire flush mechanism by twisting it, and twisting in the new one.    The various gaps were just big enough to get the flush mechanism through.  I found it doable once I had identified the brand name (which was also Siamp), and was able to order the replacement online.    Otherwise it would probably have required a plumber.

Rodders53

JohnB47 said:

Ok, ta. No idea where that goes but maybe I'll find out!

Plenty of YouTube videos showing where/how.  Usually on brand new ultra clean units.  Yours will be cruddy with scale probably...  
But that only needs replacement if it's the problem

It also depends on the brand of unit you have - so you may need to post a pic or two, to get the correct part(s).  

JohnB47

OK, thanks. I've just managed to get the cover off - using a bit of bent wire. I also see an isolator valve behind the kickboard.

Here are some pics. The instructions seem to describe how to remove and clean various bits and bobs - one being the thingy that Timsynths posted.

I can see a part number for a seal and I'm sure I could also get the other part on-line too.

I'm just wondering if I remove those parts and clean them as a first try, without lifting the worktop. 

Also, about the instructions in the centre section of the label -  I can see by twisting clockwise and pulling that that part comes off but what is the little long vertical plastic bit go. Is it connected to anything?

Thanks.

macman

Frankly, I would just change the whole valve/diaphagm, now you have got access. They all go eventually and are not expensive, so save yourself having to repeat the dismantling process again in a few years.

JohnB47

Hmm. Emptied the cistern but I can't get enough clearance to lift up the part shown on the right hand panel of instructions. Looks like the worktop will have to come off.

JohnB47

OK I'm leaving this until tomorrow. I've unsealed around the worktop and removed the screws holding it down. It's loose now.

Unfortunately the wash bowl is actually fixed to the worktop, from below, with brackets and lifts when I lift the worktop. 

Hopefully, when I have another go tomorrow, I can disconnect the bowl wastepipe and lift the whole assembly up and rest it on a couple of blocks of wood, without having to disconnect the tap pipes. If that doesn't allow enough access, I'll disconnect the tap pipes and lift the whole lot up and away.

If I unhook the bowl from the worktop, the only thing supporting it would be the waste pipe assembly. I'll have a think about that bit overnight. There might be something I could rig up to support the bowl so that only the worktop comes off.

What a palaver.

One good thing is that, with my unseating and reseating the flush mechanism, the leak is much slower now. So it looks like that seal is dirty or needs changed.