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Fill these flooring gaps to kitchen cabinet
rentalforever
Posts: 94 Forumite
We’ve had engineered wood installed in the kitchen and there are gaps around the cabinets. How are these meant to be finished?


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Comments
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That is not neat but given that it's already down a matching wooden bead or silicone.
I've never put new flooring in with cabinets in situ, I've always taken the flooring to the walls, but the people who did it here did and used silicone sealant around the base cabinets.0 -
coloured caulk would be my choice. is there any movement when you press down on the edges?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-flooring-sealant-oak-310ml/50081?kpid=50081&ds_kid=92700065751868351&ds_rl=1249407&gclid=CjwKCAjwrZOXBhACEiwA0EoRD7AIv7TMMVqMHUUbfX1J7JBbopLX8-OASkgMHHPkeAu-6K-qqs8T8xoCOvEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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As Fen suggests, and using a Fugi (or similar) rubber finishing tool to get a neat 45o bead you should be happy with. Will likely be tricky to do around the front edge of that side panel, but hey...Or, you fit a wood quadrant beading around it all, mitring the corners, but it would need adhering to the unit side only, and not to the floor - the flooring needs to be able to move underneath it.Would it have been that difficult to remove that side panel, and cut it to the new height?Nice floor, by the way
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Tell me about it! All of the trades have been arranged through one company and they’ve been hopeless when it comes to detail like this.maisie_cat said:That is not neat but given that it's already down a matching wooden bead or silicone.
I've never put new flooring in with cabinets in situ, I've always taken the flooring to the walls, but the people who did it here did and used silicone sealant around the base cabinets.0 -
Thanks, it looks like a substance like this might be my only choice. Will be difficult to get a colour match that we like though. No movement with the boards when pressing down on them.fenwick458 said:coloured caulk would be my choice. is there any movement when you press down on the edges?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-flooring-sealant-oak-310ml/50081?kpid=50081&ds_kid=92700065751868351&ds_rl=1249407&gclid=CjwKCAjwrZOXBhACEiwA0EoRD7AIv7TMMVqMHUUbfX1J7JBbopLX8-OASkgMHHPkeAu-6K-qqs8T8xoCOvEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds0 -
I trusted our builders would know the best sequence for the various trades to come in or for at least one of the trades to point out that I might not get a good finish if you don’t do XYX step first. Unfortunately the delivery of the latter parts of our build project have been quite poor but it is what it is and we’re trying to figure out how best to apply the finishing touches because it seems the various trades and the building company aren’t capable.Bendy_House said:As Fen suggests, and using a Fugi (or similar) rubber finishing tool to get a neat 45o bead you should be happy with. Will likely be tricky to do around the front edge of that side panel, but hey...Or, you fit a wood quadrant beading around it all, mitring the corners, but it would need adhering to the unit side only, and not to the floor - the flooring needs to be able to move underneath it.Would it have been that difficult to remove that side panel, and cut it to the new height?Nice floor, by the way
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Assuming that the flooring sealant is similar to silicone to use, and I suspect it is, then these tools should give you an excellent finish you'll be happy with: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-smoothing-tools-straight-joints/92313
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Something like Bona Gap Master has a selection of various colours, and would work with a siliconing tool as has been suggested.
For a finish like that though I'd withhold final payment until sorted or tell them you need to negotiate a discount to finish it properly yourselves. That is really poor (but sadly not surprising especially when they get a load of sub contractors in).0
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