Best way to finish an oak worktop.

JohnB47

I have Oak worktop in the kitchen. It was fitted around 10 years ago and is now looking a bit sad. Quite a few areas where the original oil has worn away and others that are black stained when wet tins were left sitting on it. I've also discovered that  a solution of bicarb of soda left on a glass bottom or spoon set on it it eats through the finish - see below.

I used Junkers Rustic Oil originally and followed the instructions on the tin, which were to apply three coats, wiping off excess each time and leaving it to dry between coats. There was no thinning of first coat mentioned.

The result was a sort of varnished look - definitely a skin on there and I'm wondering if I overdid it.

So, any recommendations? I tried other products on a scrap piece of the worktop that I kept but the missus wants the Junkers used again.

What should the worktop look like after all is done - matt with some texture showing or with a coating like it had been varnished?

stuart45

I've got an Iroko worktop and draining board over a butler sink.
Originally I used Treatex oil, which is quite quick drying but now I use only  linseed oil. It goes deeper into the wood than treatex and although it needs to be done more often it's better for the timber.

Gavin83

Osmo top oil, I wouldn’t use anything else. They offer a variety of finishes too so you can pick the one that works for you.

FreeBear

stuart45 said: Originally I used Treatex oil, which is quite quick drying but now I use only  linseed oil. It goes deeper into the wood than treatex and although it needs to be done more often it's better for the timber.

Used linseed oil myself on an oak post - Found it took several days to go from sticky/tacky to dry. Gives a nice satin sheen, and worth the wait.

JohnB47

Thanks guys but I wasn't really asking for suggestions for alternative treatments. When I said "Any recommendations" I meant recommendations for how to apply the oil - eg thin the first coat? I also asked:

"What should the worktop look like after all is done - matt with some texture showing or with a coating like it had been varnished?"

theoretica

If the pores of the wood are still filled with a previous treatment, then any new oil will not soak in - only to any places where the pores have become open.  So treating new wood I would expect the oil to soak in - but if the interior is saturated by old treatment you may be looking just at a surface coat - and the more layers you apply the more surface you will get.  Personally, I would start by making the surface as even as possible - if only a couple of spots are worn then maybe just treating those areas, but if it is pretty bad I would scrape or sand the whole surface to an even finish, scrub and bleach out dark marks, sand smooth any raised grain from water.  Then treat the whole surface.

Junkers is a urethane - I expect you will get a surface build up. 

If it is too shiny you can take the shine off with something like this https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/v000139794/  (much finer than the green scouring pads!) or maybe 600 grit sandpaper.  A good idea to do this between coats too.

JohnB47

theoretica said:

If the pores of the wood are still filled with a previous treatment, then any new oil will not soak in - only to any places where the pores have become open.  So treating new wood I would expect the oil to soak in - but if the interior is saturated by old treatment you may be looking just at a surface coat - and the more layers you apply the more surface you will get.  Personally, I would start by making the surface as even as possible - if only a couple of spots are worn then maybe just treating those areas, but if it is pretty bad I would scrape or sand the whole surface to an even finish, scrub and bleach out dark marks, sand smooth any raised grain from water.  Then treat the whole surface.

Junkers is a urethane - I expect you will get a surface build up. 

If it is too shiny you can take the shine off with something like this https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/v000139794/  (much finer than the green scouring pads!) or maybe 600 grit sandpaper.  A good idea to do this between coats too.

Thank you. I do intend to sand down the whole worktop, so most of the old oil would be removed. 

You mentioned "scrub and bleach out dark marks". Do you mean using actual bleach, or maybe something like HG Mould Spray? The worst marks on the worktop have been caused by wet cans being left on it. Here's a picture of the worst bit.

shiraz99

This vid was quite interesting:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07v4aZa36Qc

JohnB47

Thanks. That video is incredibly useful. I might even buy one or both of the scraper tools mentioned.

theoretica

JohnB47 said:

theoretica said:

If the pores of the wood are still filled with a previous treatment, then any new oil will not soak in - only to any places where the pores have become open.  So treating new wood I would expect the oil to soak in - but if the interior is saturated by old treatment you may be looking just at a surface coat - and the more layers you apply the more surface you will get.  Personally, I would start by making the surface as even as possible - if only a couple of spots are worn then maybe just treating those areas, but if it is pretty bad I would scrape or sand the whole surface to an even finish, scrub and bleach out dark marks, sand smooth any raised grain from water.  Then treat the whole surface.

Junkers is a urethane - I expect you will get a surface build up. 

If it is too shiny you can take the shine off with something like this https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/v000139794/  (much finer than the green scouring pads!) or maybe 600 grit sandpaper.  A good idea to do this between coats too.

Thank you. I do intend to sand down the whole worktop, so most of the old oil would be removed. 

You mentioned "scrub and bleach out dark marks". Do you mean using actual bleach, or maybe something like HG Mould Spray? The worst marks on the worktop have been caused by wet cans being left on it. Here's a picture of the worst bit.

I would try citric acid on it - or vinegar - or both...  Oxalic acid is supposed to be effective, but is also less safe.

Oak+iron gives a black colour - use for ebonising oak, and oak gall ink, so while the stain might be mould if it didn't happen for other wet things it might be an indication of more complicated wood chemistry.

shiraz99

JohnB47 said:

Thanks. That video is incredibly useful. I might even buy one or both of the scraper tools mentioned.

It does look very satisfying  😀