Desperately Need Carpentry Advice! (CLOSED THREAD)

Beverley75

Gavin83 said:

Bendy_House said:

Beverley75 said:

These are fantastic tips!

Thank you so much for such a detailed response. 

I really like the doors in your top two images - but the third image (with the doors framed in white/wall) is perfect!

If the trim is white, it breaks up the 'wood overload' - and I could even get away with the pine effect plywood panels cut into doors (I like the inlay type doors in your last picture - I don't know what the style is, but I like the extra narrow panels on the doors)

Thank you, thank you, thank you! :-) 

The only issue with using plywood is that it has an unfinished edge, so this would be visible when the doors are opened. To hide this, they can either be lipped, or it just ignored! 

To hide the edge of plywood you’ve essentially got 3 choices as far as I can tell:

1) Just leave it. The edge of plywood can look quite beautiful but then you’ll need a quality plywood. This will of course push the price up.

2) Get iron on veneer. Not really a fan of this as it’ll eventually peel off but it’s an option none the less.

3) Use ‘proper’ wood to hide the edge. If you’re really clever and you own a router you can completely hide the join as well. Best option would be something resembling a Y shape. Issue with this option is it requires the most skill and tools.

Interesting topic this as I’ll need to build my own cupboard doors soon. Will see how it goes!

Well, I'm totally sold on the plywood now! (and all of the 'Wood effects - not to mention I'll be heading to a timber merchant) 

The job starts on the 4th June - I'll pop up pictures once it's done :-) 

Bendy_House

Gavin83 said:

Bendy_House said:

Beverley75 said:

These are fantastic tips!

Thank you so much for such a detailed response. 

I really like the doors in your top two images - but the third image (with the doors framed in white/wall) is perfect!

If the trim is white, it breaks up the 'wood overload' - and I could even get away with the pine effect plywood panels cut into doors (I like the inlay type doors in your last picture - I don't know what the style is, but I like the extra narrow panels on the doors)

Thank you, thank you, thank you! :-) 

The only issue with using plywood is that it has an unfinished edge, so this would be visible when the doors are opened. To hide this, they can either be lipped, or it just ignored! 

To hide the edge of plywood you’ve essentially got 3 choices as far as I can tell:

1) Just leave it. The edge of plywood can look quite beautiful but then you’ll need a quality plywood. This will of course push the price up.

2) Get iron on veneer. Not really a fan of this as it’ll eventually peel off but it’s an option none the less.

3) Use ‘proper’ wood to hide the edge. If you’re really clever and you own a router you can completely hide the join as well. Best option would be something resembling a Y shape. Issue with this option is it requires the most skill and tools.

Interesting topic this as I’ll need to build my own cupboard doors soon. Will see how it goes!

Cheers. 

Not sure I understand what you mean by the Y-shape, tho'?

Do you mean like Hockey-stick'? I wonder if they make that in a larges enough size to also act as the Stiles? Mind you, it would be a huge waste of wood to shape that.

I guess first 'lip' the exposed outside edges, and fit the 'stile' timber to overlap that lipping wood too?

Gavin83

Bendy_House said:

Gavin83 said:

Bendy_House said:

Beverley75 said:

These are fantastic tips!

Thank you so much for such a detailed response. 

I really like the doors in your top two images - but the third image (with the doors framed in white/wall) is perfect!

If the trim is white, it breaks up the 'wood overload' - and I could even get away with the pine effect plywood panels cut into doors (I like the inlay type doors in your last picture - I don't know what the style is, but I like the extra narrow panels on the doors)

Thank you, thank you, thank you! :-) 

The only issue with using plywood is that it has an unfinished edge, so this would be visible when the doors are opened. To hide this, they can either be lipped, or it just ignored! 

To hide the edge of plywood you’ve essentially got 3 choices as far as I can tell:

1) Just leave it. The edge of plywood can look quite beautiful but then you’ll need a quality plywood. This will of course push the price up.

2) Get iron on veneer. Not really a fan of this as it’ll eventually peel off but it’s an option none the less.

3) Use ‘proper’ wood to hide the edge. If you’re really clever and you own a router you can completely hide the join as well. Best option would be something resembling a Y shape. Issue with this option is it requires the most skill and tools.

Interesting topic this as I’ll need to build my own cupboard doors soon. Will see how it goes!

Cheers. 

Not sure I understand what you mean by the Y-shape, tho'?

Do you mean like Hockey-stick'? I wonder if they make that in a larges enough size to also act as the Stiles? Mind you, it would be a huge waste of wood to shape that.

I guess first 'lip' the exposed outside edges, and fit the 'stile' timber to overlap that lipping wood too?

I was thinking something like this:

So a mix of a V groove and also a tongue and groove, blended in at the edge so you can’t spot the join. You’d need a router for this though and it’s hardly a novice method. However if done well it should leave it looking like hardwood.

Bendy_House

Gavin83 said:

Bendy_House said:

Gavin83 said:

Bendy_House said:

Beverley75 said:

These are fantastic tips!

Thank you so much for such a detailed response. 

I really like the doors in your top two images - but the third image (with the doors framed in white/wall) is perfect!

If the trim is white, it breaks up the 'wood overload' - and I could even get away with the pine effect plywood panels cut into doors (I like the inlay type doors in your last picture - I don't know what the style is, but I like the extra narrow panels on the doors)

Thank you, thank you, thank you! :-) 

The only issue with using plywood is that it has an unfinished edge, so this would be visible when the doors are opened. To hide this, they can either be lipped, or it just ignored! 

To hide the edge of plywood you’ve essentially got 3 choices as far as I can tell:

1) Just leave it. The edge of plywood can look quite beautiful but then you’ll need a quality plywood. This will of course push the price up.

2) Get iron on veneer. Not really a fan of this as it’ll eventually peel off but it’s an option none the less.

3) Use ‘proper’ wood to hide the edge. If you’re really clever and you own a router you can completely hide the join as well. Best option would be something resembling a Y shape. Issue with this option is it requires the most skill and tools.

Interesting topic this as I’ll need to build my own cupboard doors soon. Will see how it goes!

Cheers. 

Not sure I understand what you mean by the Y-shape, tho'?

Do you mean like Hockey-stick'? I wonder if they make that in a larges enough size to also act as the Stiles? Mind you, it would be a huge waste of wood to shape that.

I guess first 'lip' the exposed outside edges, and fit the 'stile' timber to overlap that lipping wood too?

I was thinking something like this:

So a mix of a V groove and also a tongue and groove, blended in at the edge so you can’t spot the join. You’d need a router for this though and it’s hardly a novice method. However if done well it should leave it looking like hardwood.

Took me a while - and a zoom-in - to figure out what's going on there! That is soooo neat. 

As you say, that would take some precision, and I guess a slightly simplified version could be a 'V' rather than a 'Y', but would still need the routing to be steady. Ultimate solution, I guess - it's impressive.

I'm sure the OP will be happy with a flat timber edging, and with the stick-on timber 'stiles' overlapping this. As would I... :-)

GDB2222

I have to make some shelves for my daughter, and I was going to use plywood. The local big shed have a great cutting machine, so I can get everything cut to size. (I'm sure it will be a whole lot squarer than the house!) 

That leaves the edges. As they want it painted, I thought of just filling the edges with two part filler. Any comments?

If it were me, I'd just sand it, and finish off with oil.

FreeBear

I've used a thin strip of solid timber glued to the edge of ply before now. But if you are painting, filler should work.

badger09

Rather than read & run, I’ll throw in my take on this. I would be very wary of introducing a third wood/wood effect shade in such close proximity. Difficult to get a good match. 

I would consider a painted surface which tones either with existing decor & stair carpet (which looks in good condition) if you’re keeping as is, or with planned colour scheme. Could even leave MDF doors unpainted until you decide. 

Beverley75

badger09 said:

Rather than read & run, I’ll throw in my take on this. I would be very wary of introducing a third wood/wood effect shade in such close proximity. Difficult to get a good match. 

I would consider a painted surface which tones either with existing decor & stair carpet (which looks in good condition) if you’re keeping as is, or with planned colour scheme. Could even leave MDF doors unpainted until you decide. 

Thank you - you raise a good point.

I've not gone to the timber merchant yet, but I think that even if I pick pine plasterboard/MDF it can still be painted (or so I've read!).

Many thanks 

Bendy_House

Beverley75 said:

Thank you - you raise a good point.

I've not gone to the timber merchant yet, but I think that even if I pick pine plasterboard/MDF it can still be painted (or so I've read!).

Many thanks 

Yes, whatever material you end up choosing, it can always be painted if you decide that's what you prefer. And obviously going for ply or 'wood' first, means you can see that option in place.

ComicGeek

This is what we installed a couple of years ago - some made to measure Blum drawers with some expertly cut mdf panelling sheets by our carpenter neighbour.