Fixing Blinds — Wall, Lintel or Window Frame?

Hi all,

We need to fix some blinds into the recesses of some windows.

The initial plan was to fix the end brackets to the wall, and the multiple support brackets to the concrete lintels above. The windows are quite large (over two metres), so probably do require the support brackets.

Is it a bit dodgy drilling into the concrete lintels? It’s a 1955 bungalow. Don’t want to do any damage to it.

Some have suggested fixing to the window frame itself… but I’m not sure it’ll look all that great. Plus, to ensure the blinds go past the window handles, I’d need to offset the brackets from the frame somehow.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • victor2
    victor2 Posts: 8,063 Ambassador
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Use a hammer drill and go into the concrete. If you're lucky it will not hit something and wander off or make a much larger hole than you wanted. I usually start with a small pilot hole first, then open it up to the size required for the rawl plug.

    I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the In My Home MoneySaving, Energy and Techie Stuff boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the report button, or by emailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com. 

    All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,961 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    victor2 said: Use a hammer drill and go into the concrete.
    If they are anything like the concrete lintels here, you will need an SDS drill. Ruddy hard stuff, but at least you only need to go in ~30mm or so.

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • casper_gutman
    casper_gutman Posts: 827 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    FreeBear said:
    victor2 said: Use a hammer drill and go into the concrete.
    If they are anything like the concrete lintels here, you will need an SDS drill. Ruddy hard stuff, but at least you only need to go in ~30mm or so.

    Likewise here. Our lintels are concrete with flint aggregate - so hard that when I tried using a normal hammer drill to put blinds up I was convinced I  was trying to drill into steel.

    I ended up paying someone else to do it. He used a 3.5kg SDS Plus drill and went through two drill bits before the job was done.
  • GDB2222
    GDB2222 Posts: 25,994 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    It is much easier to screw a batten to the wall, then screw the blind to that.  
    No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?
  • casper_gutman
    casper_gutman Posts: 827 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    GDB2222 said:
    It is much easier to screw a batten to the wall, then screw the blind to that.  
    True. That works I you're fixing the blind outside the window recess, but sometimes  blinds just work better when fitted inside.

    Also, if the window is in the corner of the room there may not be room for a batten to extend beyond the lintel.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,722 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    FreeBear said:
    victor2 said: Use a hammer drill and go into the concrete.
    If they are anything like the concrete lintels here, you will need an SDS drill. Ruddy hard stuff, but at least you only need to go in ~30mm or so.

    Likewise here. Our lintels are concrete with flint aggregate - so hard that when I tried using a normal hammer drill to put blinds up I was convinced I  was trying to drill into steel.

    I ended up paying someone else to do it. He used a 3.5kg SDS Plus drill and went through two drill bits before the job was done.
    Even a 3.5kg drill can struggle and burn out bits on certain walls. Look at the J rating on an SDS drill. Most of the smaller ones only deliver about 3, whereas a Titan giving 10J will go into a flint wall quite easily without wrecking the bits.
  • Megaross
    Megaross Posts: 183 Forumite
    100 Posts First Anniversary
    SDS drill and a good sharp bit is what you're wanting, go through the plaster on non hammer then SDS using a small bit, go up to full size. Good accurate holes every time into a concrete lintel.

    You can do it with a decent hammer drill but you'll be there a while.

    If you're fixing through dot and dab or dry lining you'll want to use proper fixings, I've used corefix and drylinepro for those jobs over the years.
  • paperclap
    paperclap Posts: 776 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Thanks one and all.

    Fitted the back bedroom blinds last night, and they're looking pucka  :)

    Threw out the rubbish plugs and screws they provided. Used 4 x 35mm woodscrews with Fischer red plugs. Drilled 4mm pilot holes into the concrete lintel for the support brackets, then opened up with a 5.5mm bit. Did the same for the main brackets, on the recess walls.

    Used a normal drill for the lintel. Albeit, it was on hammer action. But, all good!
Meet your Ambassadors

🚀 Getting Started

Hi new member!

Our Getting Started Guide will help you get the most out of the Forum

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 350.1K Banking & Borrowing
  • 252.7K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 453.1K Spending & Discounts
  • 243K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 597.4K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 176.5K Life & Family
  • 256K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
  • 37.6K Read-Only Boards

Is this how you want to be seen?

We see you are using a default avatar. It takes only a few seconds to pick a picture.