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Log burner snapped bolt
CashStrappedTeen89
Posts: 363 Forumite
Hoping someone can help.
We’ve been using our log burner for quite a lot lately.
As such I thought best to remove and straighten a warped protective metal piece at the back (already done when we moved in)
I applied a substantial amount of WD40 however as soon as I applied a little force to the bolt it’s snapped off.



We’ve been using our log burner for quite a lot lately.
As such I thought best to remove and straighten a warped protective metal piece at the back (already done when we moved in)
I applied a substantial amount of WD40 however as soon as I applied a little force to the bolt it’s snapped off.
I can straighten the metal no problem however I’m concerned the bolt (and associated thread that came with it) are not replaceable?
Photos attached just to show.
Can someone also advise what the fabric type material will be between the burner casing and the protective metal piece? Photos attached just to show.




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Comments
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CashStrappedTeen89 said: As such I thought best to remove and straighten a warped protective metal piece at the back (already done when we moved in)
I applied a substantial amount of WD40 however as soon as I applied a little force to the bolt it’s snapped off.I can straighten the metal no problem however I’m concerned the bolt (and associated thread that came with it) are not replaceable?Can someone also advise what the fabric type material will be between the burner casing and the protective metal piece?WD40 is a water dispersant, not a penetrating oil - You should have used something like PlusGas. But assuming photo No.2 is of a similar bolt, not all is lost. Usually, where there is a nut, there will be a bolt head on the other side. If you have access, tap the remains of the bolt out and insert a new one. You might need to use a drill and sharp drill bit if the remains does not want to come out.The fibrous fabric will be a fibreglass mat designed to resist the high temperatures inside the fire box - If it needs replacing, you should be able to get a pack from the stove manufacturer (failing that, ebay).Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out! - Bing video
This gentleman does some interesting videos on various products.1 -
If you do have to drill the shaft of the broken bolt out, start with small HSS drill bit going almost all the way through then step up sizes until near drilled out bolt,about halfway through put drill in reverse the friction can sometimes break the bond between threads.
Good eye protection is a must when attempting this.Play with the expectation of winning not the fear of failure. S.Clarke1 -
And don't forget to use a center punch to mark the location of the pilot hole (the small drill).Eldi_Dos said:If you do have to drill the shaft of the broken bolt out, start with small HSS drill bit going almost all the way through then step up sizes until near drilled out bolt,about halfway through put drill in reverse the friction can sometimes break the bond between threads.
Good eye protection is a must when attempting this.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.2 -
How many bolts (nuts?) we're there in total, CST? I guess two at least? And the others came out ok?
The best fix will likely come down to what's been left behind where the snapped one came off - could you post a close-up of the remaining stub?
I'm thinking it's unlikely to be a bolt that's come through from the back of the stove, but it's always worth checking first - can you see up being it, with a mirror or phone camera? Anything showing?
IF it's screwed/bolted through from outside, then that gives the good option of trying to screw the remaining stub back out the back, if you can get a grip on it. If not, then it might be drill it out and fit a new - probably larger - replacement.
Or, if there's an intact stub remaining, there may the the possibility of grinding it back until only around 4mm is showing, screwing a thick nut on to that, and then screwing a short new threaded stub into the remaining thickness of that nut - will the insulating material thickness allow this?
Or, drill it out, tap a new thread, and fit a BOLT through the plate from the inside.
Would a SS replacement nut/bolt make sense?1 -
Thanks everyone for the replies, after cleaning the burner up and half bending the metal back (needs more persuasion) I took another look.
managed to pop the remains of the bolt back through and it popped out the back. Seems there coach bolts.
so I just need to take the remains and get a replacement (1 of) and then find the material. The metal may need to be recut however I’ll see if I can borrow a press to put it back to shape.
one of those wish I’d of never started but it needed doing.3
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