How to attach bar

Sandtree

Need to attach a bar like device to a dot & dab wall, weighs 13kg so substantial but not crazy. Its got a screw hole at each end to attach to the wall but I need it to be 2" away from the wall. The other challenge is that where one end needs to go is directly above a plug socket so will have the powerlines in metal trunking behind the plasterboard. Ultimately a pelmet will be put around the thing so it won't be visible day to day. Ceiling mounting is a non-starter due to aluminium suspended ceiling system that has no strength. 

Was thinking of using Grip-It type mounts with a wooden block at each end to create the spacing and just screw into that. Alternatively thought to use a CoreFix type mount using longer batons so its mounted into the blockwork and straddling the power cables. Any better ideas?

FreeBear

Sandtree said: The other challenge is that where one end needs to go is directly above a plug socket so will have the powerlines in metal trunking behind the plasterboard.

Unless you were there at the time the electrics were installed, do not assume anything. The cables could have been clipped to the walls and had plastic capping fixed over the top. It is also possible that the cables shoot off at an odd angle at some point - Always check for the presence of cables with a detector before drilling a hole.

As for using a grab adhesive - That will not work long term on plasterboard (in my opinion). Depending on what is behind the plasterboard, you will want at least 25mm of engagement into the blockwork.

rob7475

To hold that sort of weight, you'll need to fix to the blockwork behind. You could drill through into the block work and tap a plug through into the block before fixing with a 3 or 4" screw. Alternatively, look at something like rigifix fixings. I used them through dot and dabbed walls for holding up some kitchen units and they are solid.

Sandtree

FreeBear said:

Sandtree said: The other challenge is that where one end needs to go is directly above a plug socket so will have the powerlines in metal trunking behind the plasterboard.

Unless you were there at the time the electrics were installed, do not assume anything. The cables could have been clipped to the walls and had plastic capping fixed over the top. It is also possible that the cables shoot off at an odd angle at some point - Always check for the presence of cables with a detector before drilling a hole.

As for using a grab adhesive - That will not work long term on plasterboard (in my opinion). Depending on what is behind the plasterboard, you will want at least 25mm of engagement into the blockwork.

Absolutely would check first but have been into the void between the plasterboard and the structural ceiling a few times and so far all are the same in terms of power coming straight down from the ceiling and radiator pipes coming together at the middle of the radiator and then up to the ceiling.

Wasnt suggesting grab adhesive but "GripIt" mounts (GripIt Plasterboard Fixing 25 x 205mm 25 Pack | Plasterboard Wall Plugs | Screwfix.com) - flat disks with flat wings that open behind the plasterboard with a claimed 115kg weight capacity

Alderbank

The Gripit fixings won't work for your application.
The claimed 115Kg capacity is for a force passing vertically through the disc with no significant forward or back moment of force. Your bar cantilevered 2" from the wall will generate enough horizontal force to simply pull the wings through the plasterboard. If you search for Gripit reviews online you will see many pictures of these characteristic 2 wing-shaped tear holes.

I agree with rob7475 about rigifix. These anchor the load firmly where it should be - in the blockwork

Sandtree

Alderbank said:

The Gripit fixings won't work for your application.
The claimed 115Kg capacity is for a force passing vertically through the disc with no significant forward or back moment of force. Your bar cantilevered 2" from the wall will generate enough horizontal force to simply pull the wings through the plasterboard. If you search for Gripit reviews online you will see many pictures of these characteristic 2 wing-shaped tear holes.

I agree with rob7475 about rigifix. These anchor the load firmly where it should be - in the blockwork

I've always been concerned by the GripIt things and do realise they're limit is based on a perpendicular force however did use them previously to wall mount 8kg speakers which were flush but deeper than 2" and front heavy so thought they may work.

With RigiFix or CoreFix presumably just attach a baton using them (to avoid the electrics and create the depth) and then normal wood screw to attach the device to the baton?

Alderbank

With RigiFix or CoreFix presumably just attach a baton using them (to avoid the electrics and create the depth) and then normal wood screw to attach the device to the baton?

Yes, that's what I would do.

Murmansk

Yes, Corefix and some bits of ply attached to the wall using them, then screw your device to the ply