Architrave repair

ChilliBob

Cheers, not our dog though, those before us. Nice dog though he he.

Right, first to track down some trim.. Well, actually, ask the wife if she wants this done first or the other stuff on our big list! Eek! 

Bendy_House

Chilli, it'll likely come away more easily than you think. And all the other advice is good too - if decorator's caulk or similar has been run down where the archi joins the plastered wall, then cut that carefully with a Stanley knife, keeping the blade sliding flush with the RH edge of the archi, and the knife tip just cutting through. Ditto on the other side. And also where the archi joins the skirting board.

Why do you think it's been adhered in place? Chances are it's held with a few panel pins, tho' possibly backed up with some adhesive too...

I use an old filling knife (like a scraper) for jobs like this; gently tap it in between the door frame and the archi until it goes in an inch or so, and then you can use a chisel tapped in on top of the scraper blade in order to prise the archi away - the scraper blade will protect the door frame timber. Do this in a few places, and see how thing progress. (Watch out for the scraper falling out as you prise the archi away - protect the floor and your toes.)

And, yes, it's Ogee, and you will almost certainly pick this up very easily, literally off the shelf. Once removed, cut a piece off and take it with you - you may find small variations in size, but this should be ok since you are replacing the whole length.

twopenny

As an alternative I had similar in the kitchen.
I used a pre mixed filler (Tetron) and built it up from deepest outwards and sculpted while wet, hand sanded when dry.
I quite enjoyed it and result was perfect when painted. As I took it slow, from deep, dry,next, dry etc overall it didn't take long and I could get on with other stuff.
I used it to fill in a space where picture rail was missing, pipe removed. And dents in the door woodwork.
That stuff stays once it's done. Worth paying the extra for.
101 the cheap stuff or the powder stuff was useless to create with. The pre mix is like working with soft clay.

ChilliBob

Cheers, some good tips. 

I can tell from where it had been nibbled back to the wall, there is the grip fill on the wall. 

Thanks all 

ChilliBob

twopenny said:

As an alternative I had similar in the kitchen.
I used a pre mixed filler (Tetron) and built it up from deepest outwards and sculpted while wet, hand sanded when dry.
I quite enjoyed it and result was perfect when painted. As I took it slow, from deep, dry,next, dry etc overall it didn't take long and I could get on with other stuff.
I used it to fill in a space where picture rail was missing, pipe removed. And dents in the door woodwork.
That stuff stays once it's done. Worth paying the extra for.
101 the cheap stuff or the powder stuff was useless to create with. The pre mix is like working with soft clay.

Thanks, that's quite interesting as there are some bits on a different door which are not as bad, so I may consider a hybrid approach. 

Bendy_House

Hats off to t'penny. I have filled holes and damage to many bits of mouldings in the past, and really struggle to get a good finish. I almost always need to resort to 'fine surface' filler after the first coat of subsequent primer, when all my holidays show up :-(

in_my_wellies

Could you remove the whole section which won't show behind the door and use the top undamaged piece of that to repair the bottom of the one which will show thus giving a perfect match?

Then get as close as possible for the piece behind the door

Bendy_House

Even if the new Ogee is a slightly different size - say a mm out - it'll only show (and will be easy to disguise) at the top mitre.

I think the simplest solution here is to replace that whole length.

ChilliBob

in_my_wellies said:

Could you remove the whole section which won't show behind the door and use the top undamaged piece of that to repair the bottom of the one which will show thus giving a perfect match?

Then get as close as possible for the piece behind the door

I might end up doing that! - I have a section cut out - which actually worked quite well. However, two Ogee bits purchased so far aren't even close (both were opportunistic purchases when I didn't have my sample with me!) so finding a mix is proving rather frustrating! Basically going on a wood yard and diy shed road trip next week I guess lol

FreeBear

ChilliBob said: going on a wood yard and diy shed road trip next week I guess lol

If this is an older property, try a building reclamation yard - They often have odd bits of "period" moldings.