Upgrading home security; new locks, back door.

Phil4432

So I'm working out how to upgrade the security on our 3 bed semi.

I'm going to upgrade the locks on the upvc doors to something like these, and install them myself.  https://www.homesecureshop.co.uk/products/yale-euro-cylinder-door-lock-platinum-ts007-3-star

Trying to decide on the back door.  At present about half of the upvc back door is double glazed.  I'm thinking of replacing it with a solid upvc door, ie no glass.  Worth the expense?  The current door is locked with a key from the inside, so even if they did smash the glass they couldn't open it that way.  Probably be easier to smash a window, however maybe one less bit of glass on the property is an additional security measure. 

Would like to have thumbturn locks for the front door, but am wondering if they could be turned by someone smashing a window and sticking their hand through?  https://www.homesecureshop.co.uk/products/yale-thumb-turn-euro-cylinder-door-lock-as-platinum-ts007-3-star

Any recommendations on locks appreciated, the above seem to be popular for security, albeit expensive.

Additional; are sash jammers on the windows worth it?

Thank you.

Sandtree

Phil4432 said:

Would like to have thumbturn locks for the front door, but am wondering if they could be turned by someone smashing a window and sticking their hand through? 

How do you think they wouldnt be?

There is a practicality aspect of if there is nearby glass to smash, or a letterbox to reach through etc but ultimately if they can get something to the thumbturn then clearly they can turn it and unlock the door.

There is an inevitable balancing of physical security where a key operated lock is clearly better and fire safety where evacuation is easier/quicker if you dont need a key

FreeBear

Sealed double glazed units are pretty tough and take quite a bit of effort to break. The insulated panels fitted to the lower half of a uPVC door is a different matter - You can cut through one very quickly & easily with just a bread knife (used one to fit a cat flap a few years back).

Personally, I'd leave the door half glazed just for the daylight.

ChilliBob

I chose Avocet ABS eurocylinders, these ones: https://www.barnsleylock.co.uk/avocet-abs-mk3-ultimate-cylinders-13-c.asp  which seemed to get good ratings.

Changing them on the UPVC door on one side was a sinch, the other side less so (still need to do it!) I need to remove some mullion thingy with 20 odd screws, drill through some plastic etc to find the lock screw!

Euro cylinder tip - be sure to measure correctly - the sites have a good guide. 

Oh and the handles are important I believe - if they're sort of 'hollow' they can be snapped off, then the lock snapped. 

Phil4432

FreeBear said:

Sealed double glazed units are pretty tough and take quite a bit of effort to break. The insulated panels fitted to the lower half of a uPVC door is a different matter - You can cut through one very quickly & easily with just a bread knife (used one to fit a cat flap a few years back).

Personally, I'd leave the door half glazed just for the daylight.

Do you feel that this door for example,
https://www.justdoorsuk.com/upvc-order.php?product=flat-panel-with-mid-rail-solid-upvc-back-door

Would be no more secure than this door?
https://www.justdoorsuk.com/upvc-order.php?product=2xg-half-glazed-flat-panel-upvc-back-door

Second one is what we currently have.

Phil4432

ChilliBob said:

I chose Avocet ABS eurocylinders, these ones: https://www.barnsleylock.co.uk/avocet-abs-mk3-ultimate-cylinders-13-c.asp  which seemed to get good ratings.

Changing them on the UPVC door on one side was a sinch, the other side less so (still need to do it!) I need to remove some mullion thingy with 20 odd screws, drill through some plastic etc to find the lock screw!

Euro cylinder tip - be sure to measure correctly - the sites have a good guide. 

Oh and the handles are important I believe - if they're sort of 'hollow' they can be snapped off, then the lock snapped. 

Yes, an online shop recommended Avocet over Yale also.

The locks are snap proof apparently, but yes a snap proof handle would also be a good visual deterrent. 

donnablossomm

Eurocylinder locks are a much better deterrent, its almost as important to make the door look secure as to actually make it secure - additional locks are a god-send in slightly rougher areas

Postik

With regard to locks, if they are fitted incorrectly and protrude too much, they are more at risk of being snapped.  I watched a YouTube video where someone put one in a clamp and then snapped it with some pliers - it was unbelievably weak in the centre.  If I was upgrading, I would go with anti-snap locks which have notches along the barrel so they snap in a different place if forced.

With regards to glass, I had similar concerns with my French doors, but then I realised they are fitted with toughened glass and as FreeBear said, they won't be easy to break and would probably make a heck of a racket.

Finally, the thumb turn lock on the front door.  You would ideally need a hood on your letterbox if it's in the centre of the door close to the lock, to stop someone putting something through the letterbox and turning the lock.  I believe it's a regulation now on new properties that the front door must have a way of being able to unlock the door and exit without a key.  I have this on my house and I am happy with it - in my old house I showed my kids where the front door key was kept in the event of a fire but I'm not convinced in reality they would be able to find it in the dark, nor actually be capable of unlocking the door with the key.  It's also nice to be able to keep opening, closing and locking the door without searching for the key.  Without this, we'd probably keep the door unlocked half the time, or leave the key in the door itself, both of which are security issues.

DullGreyGuy

ChilliBob said:

Oh and the handles are important I believe - if they're sort of 'hollow' they can be snapped off, then the lock snapped. 

Breaking off the area around the cylinder is just to expose it to get a better grip to snap the cylinder (why you need to make sure the cylinder isnt too long). With the likes of the Yale lock they are "snap proof" which actually means they do snap but at a predefined place not in the middle leaving the lock still secure... you have to make sure you put snap proof cylinders in the right way round as a consequence!

Not sure about "snap proof handles", most are going to be just as easily removed with screws so maybe just adding a few seconds.

Have seen the "Lockpicking Lawyer" trying to pick the Yale lock linked above and whilst he did achieve it in "lab conditions" he said it was one of the hardest locks he's ever attempted (and theres never been a key operated lock that hes not been able to pick) and thinks it'd been even harder in a real world setting.