Hisense f1 code washing machine?

blackstar

If a washing machine is connected under the kitchen sink, if the cold water tap has low pressure can it mean that the washing machine may not be getting enough water fast enough or enough water pressure? 


I just got a hisense washing machine and keep getting the f1 error code? Which mentions it's not getting enough water or water pressure.
The hot water tap runs thicker than my index finger but the cold is less and is about the same size as my index finger which is not that big.
It stops when in the rinse and spin cycle and gurrgles in the kitchen sink many times during the wash cycle.
What are people's thoughts?

EssexExile

If there is not enough pressure behind the cold water it may not force it's way past the solenoid valve, it needs to overcome a spring. You can get low pressure valves that work differently.

grumbler

EssexExile said:

If there is not enough pressure behind the cold water it may not force it's way past the solenoid valve, it needs to overcome a spring. You can get low pressure valves that work differently.

I think a solenoid valve is normally closed by the spring (+water pressure) and the solenoid opens it by overcoming the spring force and the water pressure. It doesn't need any pressure to remain open.

Such error codes normally indicate low flow, i.e. are generated when filling the machine  takes longer time then allowed. It's worth checking the isolating valves and, as a last resort, connecting the machine to high-pressure cold water only. In this case it will cost more to heat water by electricity.

blackstar

Thanks if the cold water tap in kitchen sink, flow and pressure is increased then could it solve the washing machine issue of constantly stopping due to lack of water flow and pressure?

Also how can I increase the water flow and pressure in my cold tap? The isolating valve is fully open, totally vertical. 

greyteam1959

Is the inlet filter blocked ??

grumbler

Well, if your neighbours can get bigger flow, then your stopcock and your mains pipe are the only ones to blame. Replacing the former can be relatively cheap, replacing the latter can cost a fortune.

However, if it's a two-storey house with a tank in the loft, hot water pressure on the ground floor (about 0.5 bar) has to be sufficient for the most machines normal operation - https://washerhouse.com/en/davlenie-dlya-stiralnoj-mashiny/ - and the flow depends entirely on the internal pipework.

Rodders53

Check stop valve for washer is fully open and not restricting flow.

Strainers (mesh filters) in both ends of the washer pipe need checking and cleaning if blocked.

Washer hose itself needs checking.  It may be kinked or crushed and impeding flow.

Stop-valve feed to washer could be changed to a 'full bore' to improve flow (but actually reduce pressure slightly).

Check the washer manual to see if you can over-ride the 'faulting' issue in low pressure water situations (my new Miele washer mentions it in the settings section).  {As a very last resort.}

grumbler

Rodders53 said:

 (but actually reduce pressure slightly).

If flow is good, who cares about pressure? If flow remains low, 'full bore' won't reduce pressure.

Checking the mesh filters is a good point.

FaceHead

What's the cold water pressure like in the rest of the property? 

Average to poor at the kitchen sink it sounds like. If there is rubbish pressure in the whole house you need to look at the stopcock or before. And if there is poor pressure everywhere, ask your neighbors if they have similar problems and if they do contact the water company. 

Or you might find pressure is good elsewhere in the house, which means you might want to get a plumber round to look at the pipework in your kitchen.

EssexExile

grumbler said:

EssexExile said:

If there is not enough pressure behind the cold water it may not force it's way past the solenoid valve, it needs to overcome a spring. You can get low pressure valves that work differently.

I think a solenoid valve is normally closed by the spring (+water pressure) and the solenoid opens it by overcoming the spring force and the water pressure. It doesn't need any pressure to remain open.

Such error codes normally indicate low flow, i.e. are generated when filling the machine  takes longer time then allowed. It's worth checking the isolating valves and, as a last resort, connecting the machine to high-pressure cold water only. In this case it will cost more to heat water by electricity.

You're right. It's been years since I did this sort of thing, the main reason for using a low pressure valve isn't to cure slow filling, it's because low pressure doesn't close the valve properly when switched off. So OP, ignore what I said earlier!

markin

In a hard water area could it just be restricted.