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Combi boiler needs re-pressurizing
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Isn't yellow normally used to signify gas? The pipe also looks like 22mm down to 15mm.That would also be too easy, the makers clearly like to create a mystery.
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neilmcl said:If you follow the pipes below the boiler whether do they go?
I had a look at the installation manual and that's pretty useless to, just says to use your "preferred filling method as described earlier" but doesn't actually describe it. There must be a filling loop, as shown earlier, if not then as mentioned you'll probably have to get someone in.
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The plumber who put a filling value down there to get buried under a kitchen needs to be shot.
Would recommend getting a value installed up in the conventional place by the boiler at your next service/next time a plumber is on site/ next time you have a Saturday free.5 -
FaceHead said:The plumber who put a filling value down there to get buried under a kitchen needs to be shot.
Would recommend getting a value installed up in the conventional place by the boiler at your next service/next time a plumber is on site/ next time you have a Saturday free.My last boiler which I inherited when I moved in , was onky a few feet from the floor.
Adjusting the pressure ( after the great advice on here ) was not fun it has to be said.1 -
FaceHead said:The plumber who put a filling value down there to get buried under a kitchen needs to be shot.
Would recommend getting a value installed up in the conventional place by the boiler at your next service/next time a plumber is on site/ next time you have a Saturday free.0 -
FaceHead said:The plumber who put a filling value down there to get buried under a kitchen needs to be shot.
Would recommend getting a value installed up in the conventional place by the boiler at your next service/next time a plumber is on site/ next time you have a Saturday free.1 -
Well done, binft.But...wow.Are the pipes immediately under the boiler going to be boxed in? Is there cover to go over them? Installing a filling loop there would be straightforward for a plumber - it'll almost certainly go between the two right-most pipes, what looks like the cold water inlet and the CH return pipe.Usually a flexi hose is used (is it because it can be removed afterwards, I dunno?), but this can be done more neatly in rigid copper with a couple of valves fitted, one a non-return.Having it in such an inaccessible place is crazy.Anyhoo, a rad needed bleeding? Does this happen often?You have a filter fitted - that's good. Can you recall when it was last checked, and what - if anything - was in there?0
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You need to check the installation manual, which shows what all the pipes do, but I’m 99.99% sure it’s the pipe just to the right of the yellow handle.Well done for finding the filling loop. One option is to fit a remote control stop tap. Surefit do one.No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?0
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1. It is a requirement of the Water Regulations that the filling loop be disconnected once pressure has been set. Must be one of the most highly ignored regulations of all time.
2. Putting permanent pipework, albeit with valves in place, does break that Water Regulation.
3. There should be a control valve at each end of the filling loop, and a check (non-return) valve on the water mains end, between the two control valves. The double check valve should preferably be a double check valve.
4. There are exceptions where the boiler manufacturer builds in a "filling loop". However the manufacturer has to get WRAS approval for the design. These can be very expensive to replace. If you have the option a proper independent filling loop is better.
5. I'm not sure I'd rely on a Surestop stop tap, and they are not cheap.1
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