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Lagging / Insulating Pipework?
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paperclap
Posts: 779 Forumite

Hi all,
Some of you will know I'm on a quest to fit new radiators and redo the pipework running up to them. Well, it's all dry fitted now!
I'll post it all up once its all soldered! #prayfornoleaks
Once it is all done, I'll be lagging / insulating some pipework in the loft. Most of the existing pipework up there is already lagged. But, other small areas aren't.
For those that don't know (haven't seen my other posts), our pipework will all be external. Not chased in, etc. However, the drop down legs (vertical pipes) coming down from the loft will be boxed in with battens and plasterboard.
It got me to thinking. Is it worth lagging the boxed in pipework? As it goes directly into the cold loft space, there is of course a hole in the plasterboard ceiling where the pipes go through... so thus may be susceptible to colder temperatures (when the heating is off)?
If so, I would probably lag it with the thinner / "economy" insulation, so as to keep the depth of the boxed in area as small as possible.
Stupid idea, or is it a done thing?
Thanks!
Some of you will know I'm on a quest to fit new radiators and redo the pipework running up to them. Well, it's all dry fitted now!

Once it is all done, I'll be lagging / insulating some pipework in the loft. Most of the existing pipework up there is already lagged. But, other small areas aren't.
For those that don't know (haven't seen my other posts), our pipework will all be external. Not chased in, etc. However, the drop down legs (vertical pipes) coming down from the loft will be boxed in with battens and plasterboard.
It got me to thinking. Is it worth lagging the boxed in pipework? As it goes directly into the cold loft space, there is of course a hole in the plasterboard ceiling where the pipes go through... so thus may be susceptible to colder temperatures (when the heating is off)?
If so, I would probably lag it with the thinner / "economy" insulation, so as to keep the depth of the boxed in area as small as possible.
Stupid idea, or is it a done thing?
Thanks!
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Comments
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Wow - looking forward to seeing the results. I suspect it will be leak-freeI - personally - don't think I'd lag the pipes coming down the walls, but I would seal around the holes where they come through the loft.There's no risk of them freezing in that boxing, and any heat they do give out will effectively end up in the room. I'd be looking to make the boxing as compact and neat as possible, I think. I can't see any reason to lag them.
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Bendy_House said:Wow - looking forward to seeing the results. I suspect it will be leak-freeI - personally - don't think I'd lag the pipes coming down the walls, but I would seal around the holes where they come through the loft.There's no risk of them freezing in that boxing, and any heat they do give out will effectively end up in the room. I'd be looking to make the boxing as compact and neat as possible, I think. I can't see any reason to lag them.
Given that the pipes may flex a little, what’s the best way to seal around the pipes?
Not to put words in your mouth… but would expanding foam work well? Only as I’ve got half a can laying around from when I filled in some gaps around our windows!0 -
Sounds an obvious solution. Foam away...You might want to consider spray dabs of foam at regular intervals on the pipes as they run up the wall, unless they are well secured already with clips? You don't want ticking or creaking coming from behind the boxing...1
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Bendy_House said:Sounds an obvious solution. Foam away...You might want to consider spray dabs of foam at regular intervals on the pipes as they run up the wall, unless they are well secured already with clips? You don't want ticking or creaking coming from behind the boxing...
Yes, all secured in place with Talon clips1 -
laurencewhymark said: Yes, all secured in place with Talon clipsHad my CH pipes fixed to the walls with them Talon clips. As the system heated up or cooled down, clicks, ticks, and bangs galore. After chasing the drop downs in to the wall (sleeved in 20mm plastic conduit), the only sound is when the pump is runningA squirt of expanding foam where the pipes come through the ceiling will plug the gap and stop any cold air coming in. Slip a bit of plastic tubing around the pipe first if you want to allow for a lot of movement, not that you should get much.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.2 -
FreeBear said:laurencewhymark said: Yes, all secured in place with Talon clipsHad my CH pipes fixed to the walls with them Talon clips. As the system heated up or cooled down, clicks, ticks, and bangs galore. After chasing the drop downs in to the wall (sleeved in 20mm plastic conduit), the only sound is when the pump is runningA squirt of expanding foam where the pipes come through the ceiling will plug the gap and stop any cold air coming in. Slip a bit of plastic tubing around the pipe first if you want to allow for a lot of movement, not that you should get much.0
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laurencewhymark said:Don’t say that! Agh! Do NOT want any bangs or knocks!
Only from folk at your front door wanting to come in to your lovely warm hoosie...
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Bendy_House said:laurencewhymark said:Don’t say that! Agh! Do NOT want any bangs or knocks!
Only from folk at your front door wanting to come in to your lovely warm hoosie...
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Not a fan of expanding foam on or near hot & cold pipes, traditional building materials like polyfilla/plaster can be used which are also non combustible.
Expanding foam has it's uses thou
Choose Stabila !1 -
Another_Level said:Not a fan of expanding foam on or near hot & cold pipes, traditional building materials like polyfilla/plaster can be used which are also non combustible.
Expanding foam has it's uses thou
I was suggesting it as a possible 'shock-absorber' only, to try and prevent any creaking expansion movements and noise. Just a dab now and then. But probably overkill...
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