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Removal of Asbestos Floor Tiles
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I'd agree with the others: leave the asbestos floor tiles where they are. You'll need underlay for the new carpet anyway, and your fitter will put carpet over the top.
Asbestos is generally perfectly safe as long as you're not touching it, or - even worse - breathing it in. That's why removing it is such a problematic (and expensive) issue because chipping away at it causes dust which then goes everywhere and into the lungs of anyone breathing it in. Best just to leave it undisturbed.0 -
These Asbestos floor tiles could well be your damp proof membrane!Living the dream in the Austrian Alps.0
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May I tap into this thread? I have a very similar situation..
I have a bungalow, built 1970, with concrete floors throughout.
Some floors in the property have these ‘original’ 9” x 9” vinyl tiles [approx. 2.5mm thick] laid on a thin coat of black [bituminous?] adhesive.
I strongly suspect asbestos. And I agree that these original tiles are best left in situ if at all possible.
I am in the process of knocking my kitchen & dining room into one. Once this is done, I would like to lay a continuous flooring material throughout the new, enlarged room [I’m not sure what yet, but NOT carpet].
At present, part of the floor in this new room is bare concrete (carpet removed); the other part is this vinyl tile (covered more recently with vinyl sheet flooring).
So, already, there are two slightly different levels to cover with one, new flooring material.
But also, within the tiled zone, SOME of the tiles are loose (pop off easily) & can be removed - exposing the old, black adhesive.
In order to prepare this surface for a new, ‘continuous’ flooring material, would I need to both SEAL and LEVEL the floor?
What product(s) would you recommend?
....and is this a particularly difficult DIY job?
Thank you, Vicky0 -
In a similar position years ago I removed all of the tiles with a scraper not knowing they were asbestos. I then sealed the floors, sorry can't remember what I used but I'm sure there are better products available now. Floors were then leveled with self leveling compound.Living the dream in the Austrian Alps.0
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If the carpets are being replaced, is there a industry accepted method for fitting new grippers to these tiles? I would assume adhesive as drilling floor would be a no no.0
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Thank you chris_n for sharing your experience..
So, yes, I may have to apply a SEALANT and then a LEVELING COMPOUND...
I'll check out modern products. Maybe there's something out there that'll do both jobs in one go...
So, do folks think that I won't have a problem with the 2x levels involved here (bare concrete + old tiled area)?
And that there'll be some product available to level that sort of floor?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Vicky0 -
The levelling compound will do it all - you will basically have a thicker layer of compound on the lower surface that's all. Hopefully you are getting someone in to do it, as it's not an easy job, and IMO only a pro or an experienced DIYer should give it a go on a large area.0
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We have an early 1970s house, which has the old Marley tiles throughout. It’s all been carpeted using foam backed carpet, which is just stuck down round the edges. So, no gripper has been needed. Maybe you could do likewise?No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?0
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Thank you Bigphil1474... so a good, modern levelling compound will seal & cover the lot - I'll investigate products out there!!
But please provide some detail:
What are the one or two most difficult aspects of the levelling job that might make it particularly tricky for me?
What are the most common mistakes that a less-experienced DIYer might make when using a levelling compound?
Appreciated, Vicky
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