Deburring Copper Pipe?

paperclap

Hi all,

After cutting copper pipe, I’m trying to deburr the ends.

I’ve recently purchased this deburrer:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-internal-external-internal-external-pipe-duberrer-up-to-38mm/75501?tc=LA2&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQjw18WKBhCUARIsAFiW7JxUT3P7a6AVNuYi-PTEA1DVYBbLv--rtBUM4RTp3Fe35HktzpL_jzsaAnavEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

But, frankly, feels like it isn’t doing a good enough job! I’m still feeling rough / sharp “lips” on either the inside of outside... or both!

Is the tool the issue? Or, am I incorrectly applying too little or too much pressure?

If the former, are these deburrer pens any good?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-3161-Pen-Reamer-Standard/dp/B001OXDBO4/ref=asc_df_B001OXDBO4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256433357675&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2293269987093859530&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045162&hvtargid=pla-516026914557&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Has initially purchased the “round” deburrer tool over this pen, as it doubles up to deburr the outside of the pipes too.

Photographs attached of some recently deburred pipes. Granted, it is quite hard to see the edges in these photographs.

grumbler

How do you cut the pipe?

I use a cutter with sharp cutting wheel and never do deburring.

paperclap

grumbler said:

How do you cut the pipe?

I use a cutter with sharp cutting wheel and never do deburring.

I use the Rothenberger Pipeslice

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-pipeslice-15mm-automatic-copper-pipe-cutter/36198

Bendy_House

Looks ok to me. A neat bevel on the inside, and the outside just needs to be 'level' with the surface - ie the outside edge doesn't actually need to be 'bevelled' that much.

De-burring serves a few purposes; it removes the 'lip' formed on the inside which could lead to minor water resistance/turbulence, it removes any near-loose 'swarf' which could be hanging there ready to break off and end up inside your system, and deburring the outer edge down to 'surface' level allows you to slip on the olive with no issues. So, that's all it needs - remove that inner edge formed by the pipe cutting tool, and make the outer edge flush with the rest of the pipe. Jobbie jobbed.

(Except when you use copper pipe with plastic push-fits - now you must remove any and all sharp/rough outer edges, and ensure the whole end is nicely smooth - eg by finishing it off with wire wool. Any sharpness can easily damage the rubber O-ring in the fitting.)

So, it looks to me as tho' you've done a thorough job, perhaps even a little more than is needed. You should be able to get that finish with just a few seconds use of each end of the tool.

grumbler

laurencewhymark said:

grumbler said:

How do you cut the pipe?

I use a cutter with sharp cutting wheel and never do deburring.

I use the Rothenberger Pipeslice

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-pipeslice-15mm-automatic-copper-pipe-cutter/36198

I don't understand how with this tool you can get "sharp “lips” on ... outside"

FreeBear

grumbler said: I use a cutter with sharp cutting wheel and never do deburring.

Same here. And when I do need to deburr a pipe, I use a triangular scraper.

Never use push fit or plastic fittings. Always compression or solder (with copper).

Grenage

As everyone else has said, I don't need to deburr when using those pipe cutters.

justwhat

emery paper ....?

paperclap

Hmm, thanks all. I’ll have another crack at cutting some pipes and see how I go!

Section62

laurencewhymark said:

But, frankly, feels like it isn’t doing a good enough job! I’m still feeling rough / sharp “lips” on either the inside of outside... or both!

Don't worry about it.

Whilst in theory a burr can impact on flow, if you'd opted for plastic with the recommended pipe inserts, each half-joint would involve a reduction in bore to approx 8mm over a length of about 20mm.  In that context, a slight lip on a copper pipe has no practical significance on a domestic central heating system.

The pipeslice should be producing a cut which doesn't need any significant work - the ideal is for the end to be slightly rounded over as this makes insertion easier (especially for pushfit) and in some situations can help give a smoother flow transition from pipe to fitting and vice versa. (in fluid dynamics a 90 degree 'step' would be more of a theoretical concern)

The 'deburring' you need to do is only to remove any debris (like whiskers) which are still attached to the pipe and could come loose when the system is running.

Debris (rather than impact on flow) should be your number 1 concern - to that end don't use emery paper. And be very careful with wire wool unless you intend to flush the pipes before fitting.  I'd recommend giving the area you are going to cut a clean with wire wool before making the cut in order to minimise the potential for steel wire debris on the inside of the pipe.  The final clean (on the now open end of the pipe) then doesn't need to be so intensive.


Overdoing the deburring is just adding to the potential amount of debris you end up with in your CH system.


Also (but not as criticism) I'd make two comments about the length of pipe with a bend in it.

The first one is that you are trying to make a joint very close to the end of the bend. Ideally you should have at least an inch of 'straight' pipe after the bend before making a solder/compression/push-fit join.  The reason for that is the bending process distorts the shape of the pipe which means it won't fit properly in the fitting. And it looks really 'odd' to have that arrangement in exposed pipework (purely aesthetically). Try to arrange the pipework so joins are further away from bends - and if that isn't possible, consider whether using an elbow will look neater than a bend.  (exposed plumbing in copper is as much an art as a science)

The second point is it looks like you've got some 'ripples' on the inside of the bend. (but that could just be my eyesight)  If you have, its an indication something is wrong, the bend should be smooth.

If the pipes are hidden it doesn't matter, but for exposed pipework you might want to practice your bending technique a bit more so you have cleaner bends where they will be seen.  Rippling can be caused by the pipe or bender being defective, but is more commonly experienced when using too much force or speed when bending. Try slowing down a bit, see if you get a better result.

fezster

Deburring is one of those tasks which is sound in theory, but in practice, hardly any pro plumber I've come across bothers doing, unless there is any obvious loose material which can be easily removed.

Regardless of which pipe slice is used, water turbulence will result from the resulting lip left behind. However, in practice, it'll make very little difference in a domestic situation.