Holding / Clamping Copper Pipe to Solder?

paperclap

Hi all,

I’ll soon be soldering copper pipes / fittings for my central heating system. I’ll also be bending pipework too. 

The benders are awkward to hold, so best used in a clamp, or so I’ve read. Especially if you do two bends, it’s best to clamp and ensure you get it level with the other bend.

Anyway, what is the best method to hold copper pipe to ensure it doesn’t get damaged or squashed? While ensuring a safe solder in the process, of course.

Feels like a standard clamp would easily damage copper pipe!

Thanks!

Section62

laurencewhymark said:

The benders are awkward to hold, so best used in a clamp, or so I’ve read. Especially if you do two bends, it’s best to clamp and ensure you get it level with the other bend.

Using proper benders (not a spring) the bender will 'clamp' the pipe with the in-built hook as you start applying pressure on the 'bending' lever. You can increase and relax the amount of pressure while you position the pipe correctly - getting the second bend aligned with the first is usually easiest done be eye.  Resting the outer end of the 'fixed' arm on the ground will support the bender sufficiently and free up one hand for positioning the pipe.

You can hold the bender in a vice, but that is awkward with long lengths of pipe and you also get less 'feel' for the pressure you are applying, which is important feedback for beginners learning how to make smooth even bends.

laurencewhymark said:

Anyway, what is the best method to hold copper pipe to ensure it doesn’t get damaged or squashed? While ensuring a safe solder in the process, of course.

If you need to clamp the pipe you are probably doing it wrong.

In-situ work should hold itself together without clamping.  If it needs clamping then the pipes will be under stress once the soldering is completed, and stressed pipes means eventual leaks.

Smaller work is easier to make up by laying the parts out on a solder mat on a piece of wood (ideally outside for ventilation). Again, there should be no need to clamp, the parts should hold their correct position without force - but if necessary, parts can be propped up with bits of wood.  Alternatively, make up some 'V'-blocks with wood offcuts - just rest the pipe(s) in the 'V', don't clamp them.  Keep the wood away from where you are soldering so you don't set fire to it.

paperclap

Thanks Section62! 

Good news really, as saves me buying a vice! 

FreeBear

laurencewhymark said: Good news really, as saves me buying a vice! 

A good quality vice needs a sturdy bench to mount it to - My work bench is constructed from 4" box section, all welded. That puppy ain't gonna move

NSG666

If you haven't soldered before it might be worthwhile having a practice first especially if you are going to use end feed fittings and feed the solder in yourself. Not too much flux, heat or solder and do both sides of the joint at once.

paperclap

Thanks all.

Sorry, I should have mentioned this in my initial post. I’m new to soldering, so will absolutely need to practice on smaller runs of pipe with end feed fittings.

But, perhaps the “V” blocks of wood will do just the trick 

FreeBear

laurencewhymark said: Sorry, I should have mentioned this in my initial post. I’m new to soldering, so will absolutely need to practice on smaller runs of pipe with end feed fittings.

Would suggest you use solder ring fittings. Make sure the end of the pipe is clean - Wrap a bit of wet'n'dry round it (400 grit), a couple of spins to make it shiny, and don't touch it with your fingers. You'll only need a thin smear of flux on the pipe before inserting it in to the fitting, so don't go drowning the joint in flux. Heat the joint up and play the flame all round until you see the solder peeking out of the fitting. Remove the flame and allow to cool.

Once cool, wipe the joint, pipe, and fitting with a cloth wetted out with water & a dash of bicarb of soda - The bicarb will neutralise the acid flux and should prevent the copper going green.