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Soil Vent Pipe Leaking?

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  • Blimey - it looked like cast iron to me :-(
    Yes, it should be as 'simple' as dismantling the car port roof in order to gain clear access to the pipe. Once you can see the situation up there, you should be able to arrive at a solution. If you post photos, folk on here will I'm sure advise further.
    The option does remain - subject to compliance (tho' I cannot imagine any issue) - for that upper section of pipe to be removed entirely, and an AAV plopped in its place; these allow air to be drawn in as required, but prevent smells from coming out. The hole in the roof can then be tiled over.
  • paperclap
    paperclap Posts: 779 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Thanks for all your input!

    Please correct me if I'm wrong. So...

    The current asbestos soil vent pipe would be removed. A new PVC pipe would sit in it's place (outside the property walls), going up say two thirds of the height, with an air admittance valve (AAV) head sitting on top?

    If this is the case, it would be great, as it would negate the need for it to run through the soffit and roof (which of course, as we've now seen in my case, is an increased chance of leaks).

    I've seen some houses have the venting system internally (boxed in, in the bathroom), and then exit through the wall. Is this right? Externally, it seems neater, as no massive pipe running up your wall. I presume there is no way of achieving this without ripping the bathroom out?
  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 9,845 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Fourth Anniversary Name Dropper
    Thanks for all your input!

    Please correct me if I'm wrong. So...

    The current asbestos soil vent pipe would be removed. A new PVC pipe would sit in it's place (outside the property walls), going up say two thirds of the height, with an air admittance valve (AAV) head sitting on top?

    If this is the case, it would be great, as it would negate the need for it to run through the soffit and roof (which of course, as we've now seen in my case, is an increased chance of leaks).
    Yes -but you would also need to check that would be acceptable for building regs and any local bylaws.

    A vent of some kind is needed to prevent low-pressure conditions in the soil pipe causing the traps of appliances to empty or 'gurgle' (which an AAV can do) - but in some situations the vent also allows fresh air in to the system even when it is at normal atmospheric pressure, which an AAV won't do.

    Depending on the drainage arrangement you have, and the rules applying locally, you may need to keep an open air vent.  But that doesn't mean you have to keep the existing one going through the roof, it might be possible to put an open vent elsewhere instead.  And if you have an open vent elsewhere it may mean you don't need a (4") AAV - there could be other options available in that location.

    The rules are complicated, and aren't consistent across the country.


    I've seen some houses have the venting system internally (boxed in, in the bathroom), and then exit through the wall. Is this right? Externally, it seems neater, as no massive pipe running up your wall. I presume there is no way of achieving this without ripping the bathroom out?
    I think we'd need to see pictures of what is on the internal side of the wall to be able to advise.  It depends on the arrangement of appliances and the amount of space you have.

    Could you do a rough sketch plan of your house/garden and where the foul drains run?

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