Securing shed doors: What sort of lock?

warwick2001

I know its far more expensive than a lock, but maybe think of upgrading your shed to an Asgard one. Far better than a wooden shed, and much more secure. 

Obviously this only makes sense if your bikes are worth a few quid. If they are cheap models, maybe not worth spending a grand and a half on a metal shed.....

Eldi_Dos

Metal sheds are generally noisier when in use, I would not want one outside my window when the wind and rain is beating against it in the wee small hours.

Section62

warwick2001 said:

Far better than a wooden shed, and much more secure. 

'Far better' and 'more secure' are subjective - it depends what the shed is going to be used for, the owner's attitude towards maintenance, and the location it will be used in.

In terms of security, if you are careful then metal sheeting can be cut almost silently with shears, or bent back creating an access hole making virtually no noise. Cutting wood (or breaking it) is almost impossible to do silently - only by prising nailed-on planks away from the frame can similar levels of quietness be achieved. Screwing sheet wood (e.g. OSB) to the frame on the inside (as a lining) makes it virtually impossible to get quiet access to the contents. OSB sheets are relatively cheap compared to new sheds.

But to illustrate the subjective nature of security, the noise made by someone trying to break in is only relevant if the shed is in a location where the noise will be heard by someone who will investigate/report it.

In terms of 'better' - metal sheets are prone to condensation problems, so need a lining of some form if the shed contents are vulnerable to water drips or contact with wet surfaces. Timber has some insulative qualities and is less prone to condensation, but is vulnerable to rot and insect attack.  Timber needs to be maintained, but when it fails, individual parts can be replaced. Coated metal is near 'maintenance free', but when it fails repair is difficult to do. There are good arguments to be made for either type of material.

In the OP's case, because they might not be allowed to keep the shed for long the cost is a really important factor - and arguably the most important one.

zoothornrollo_2

OK so a ground anchor drilled down into the base sounds favourite. Sure that'll be fine.

In answer to the mentions of planning permissions etc. I think it very unlikely that the council will lay down the law in this case: there are various dustbin sheds and a couple of other small bike sheds in the front gardens / areas on our street. All pretty tastefully and inobtrusively done. Mine is backing on to a larger bike shed nextdoor.

Section62

zoothornrollo_2 said:

In answer to the mentions of planning permissions etc. I think it very unlikely that the council will lay down the law in this case: there are various dustbin sheds and a couple of other small bike sheds in the front gardens / areas on our street. All pretty tastefully and inobtrusively done. Mine is backing on to a larger bike shed nextdoor.

This works until one of the residents objects to their neighbour's bin store, or one of them decides the proliferation of tasteful and unobtrusive buildings is making the street avenue look like a 'shanty town'.

Then the planners are placed in a position where the 'blind eye' approach cannot continue and the ultimate outcome will probably be the legitimacy of all such structures in the road being investigated.  By then a lucky few might be beyond enforcement, the rest will need to obtain retrospective consent or remove their buildings.

Rosa_Damascena

Section62 said:

warwick2001 said:

Far better than a wooden shed, and much more secure. 

'Far better' and 'more secure' are subjective - it depends what the shed is going to be used for, the owner's attitude towards maintenance, and the location it will be used in.

In terms of security, if you are careful then metal sheeting can be cut almost silently with shears, or bent back creating an access hole making virtually no noise. Cutting wood (or breaking it) is almost impossible to do silently - only by prising nailed-on planks away from the frame can similar levels of quietness be achieved. Screwing sheet wood (e.g. OSB) to the frame on the inside (as a lining) makes it virtually impossible to get quiet access to the contents. OSB sheets are relatively cheap compared to new sheds.

Now this sounds like the voice of experience.

Monsternextdoor

I have a couple of abloy padlocks on my outhouses atm, I will be using them on my new house as well.

Ajmason42

Rosa_Damascena said:

Section62 said:

Ajmason42 said:

what about from Amazon

Completely pointless, unless the walls are strengthened and upgraded as well.

Standard bolt croppers will deal with it in less than a minute, the design is appallingly bad. Also because it will be really inconvenient for the owner in normal use.

Meanwhile, you may as well buy a sign saying "Valuable stuff worth stealing kept in here" and screw that on the door too.

It will deter the chancers but not the professionals.

The more deterrents you put in place then more likely to put the chancers off. The more locks the more hassle it is to get in quickly. I have 3 hasps and one bolt and it is pain when you want something quickly. All mine have metal plates on the inside and where possible through the major bits of wood and not the shiplap. I’ve used security screws or coach bolts. It means I’ve to my bit to try to keep them out but no wooden shed will ever be 100% secure 

the pic I posted is a deterrent option to help secure. 

Section62

Ajmason42 said:

The more deterrents you put in place then more likely to put the chancers off. The more locks the more hassle it is to get in quickly.

...

the pic I posted is a deterrent option to help secure. 

But equally, the more locks the more you are advertising that there is something inside that the owner doesn't want stolen, which to a thief equates to greater potential return from a bit of hassle.

I'm not going to give details of the method on a public forum, but that £50 security bar can be bypassed just as easily as a £1.20 hasp.

The difference between the two products is a thief will interpret someone's willingness to spend £50 on a £1.20 job as a good indication there are items worth stealing inside the building, and also perhaps that the owner's understanding of security is such that they have likely left other (much easier) entry routes unprotected (and worth checking out).

The flip side to deterrence is giving people ideas they wouldn't have had otherwise.

Herbalus

I have the usual standard bolt fitting on my shed that can take a lock. I added a second hasp at the top that can take a second lock, and have abus padlocks that are keyed alike so I just need one key. Hasp was £19, locks were £35 for the pair I think. Coach bolts though both hasps and the hinges too. I think it strikes the right balance of being tough enough to stop uncommitted folk, whilst not being visibly like Fort Knox.

Inside the shed I have a shed shackle which is a large metal structure affixed to two of the shed uprights in the wall. Shear bolts are used here so the shed shackle can’t be removed without totalling smashing the shed wall to bits. The shed shackle has a metal plate loop in it to which I have a 14mm solid secure gold chain for my bikes. Internal security is higher than the door security. Chancers will struggle with the door security and the pros will struggle with the internal bits.

Sadly normal sheds are not impregnable so the really important stuff needs to be secured almost as if the shed doors are just left open.