Do we need a wood stain, or varnish

longwalks1

Just taken delivery of a beautiful wooden garden dining set, very heavy and well made.  We'd like ot treat it but are unsure if we need a clear varnish, or a clear woodstain?  We'd like to keep it the current colour, so can hopefully treat it with a clear treatment - but what do we need?

Im guessing a varnish will give it an almost 'glossy' finish to it, kind of like a coat of paint on top of the wood.  Where as a stain will soak into the wood itself?  

Any advice please, as we dont want to ruin it by using the wrong treatment/stain/varnish?

daveyjp

Before doing anything find out if the timber is already pressure treated.

If its expensive and well made it should be and if so it doesn't need any further treatment.

Jeepers_Creepers

Also, if it's been 'oiled', then that's your best bet to continue with - and much easier too.

theonlywayisup

What is it made of?  We have teak and use Semco.  I would never use anything else and I certainly would never use teak oil. 

longwalks1

Hi, sorry I should of said, the advert says ‘it’s been treated with a base coat preservative which enables you to change its colour and it’s made using Scandinavian redwood’

If that helps 

Jeepers_Creepers

britishboy said:

Hi, sorry I should of said, the advert says ‘it’s been treated with a base coat preservative which enables you to change its colour and it’s made using Scandinavian redwood’

If that helps 

In which case, if you want the timber to last, I'd be inclined to add to that preservative base coat to make sure it's done properly.

Lots of alternatives here such as Everbuild Triple-Action preservative, similar products from Ronseal, etc. These are clear and watery, and only serve to stop rot from occurring. They won't stop water penetration, or discolouring (eg going 'grey'); for that you need a protective coating. So, when the timber is nice and dry, give it a good soaking using a brush, focusing on end grain and any screw/bolt holes - these are the weak points where water gets through.

Once the preservative is fully dry, you then look at protective 'topcoats' - these do stop water penetration, and also help prevent the wood from discolouring (weathering).

This can be an 'oil' or a varnish-type coating. Worth doing some research on this for Scand Redwood.

The essential differences are, 'oil' is watery and soaks in. It's easy to apply - just brush it liberally on, and keep doing so as long as it gets drawn in to the wood. Once no more is being drawn in, the excess is brushed off to leave a film, and this is allowed to dry. Subsequent layers can usually be added to either by brush or cloth - this builds up layers of protection.

'Varnish'/'woodstain'-type products, on the other hand, form a protective 'coat' like normal paint, so needs to be applied more carefully - a nice finish will depend on it. If that 'skin' is undermined, then water can get through and travel under the coating causing discolouration.

I understand Osma do good 'oils', and to my mind going 'oil' would likely be an easier bet - it's so easy to reapply, and it doesn't form the type of layer that water can get under and then blister and peel. Having said that, there have been some good developments in other outdoor finishes too.

Research time :-)

longwalks1

Thanks again Jeepers Creepers for your detailed reply.  On your recommendation we bought some Ever-build Triple Action protection and applied it yesterday, it went on a treat, 2 coats on a 1.8m long table and 6 fairly large chairs.

we’ve narrowed it down to either Everbuild clear wood stain, or the Ronseal Ultimate Protection Hardwood Furniture Oil, hoping either will go on in a similar way to the triple action treatment we’ve used.  Which would you advise please? 

Many thanks again