Why won't my toilet flush every time?

Whiterose23

Carrot007 said:

Whiterose23 said:

I had this recently and had the diaphragm changed; then the weight of the water on the diaphragm was too much for the rest of the system so I ended up having a completely new flush mechanism put in. It cost £150 altogether.

K' what now. When was this, what's with the prices. I assume it is 99% labour! I put in a new toilet when I moved house 6 years ago and the old one was useless. It cost £60 complete and had everything in the cistern already in place just ready to put together! (plumbing is easy, the places you have to do it in are not!).

My bathroom is old and needs replacing; the toilet system was all plastic and rubbish. 

Not the cheapest solution but I dont have a clue about plumbing so was pleased to get it sorted despite the cost. Had it done about 6 weeks ago. As it’s the only loo in the house it had to be sorted.

Rosa_Damascena

grumbler said:

tacpot12 said:

Changing the flush mechanism is an easy DIY job. It might take a couple of hours the first time you do it, and you might need to buy a £10 tool, but to save £60-£150, it’s worth learning to do. They are instructional videos on YouTube. 

It's worth changing this outdated thing from the past to something more modern, convenient and dual-flash.

Totally agree with this. I wfh and am an avid tea and coffee drinker, and changing to dual flush dropped my water bill by £30 over 6 months. When the upstairs toilet in my parent's home is flushed it (standard system), 5 mins later it still sounds like a tap has been left on. Perhaps I should stick a brick in the tank.

adougl16

nofoollikeold said:

1. If I were you I wouldn't go anywhere near a flush valve type.  Water can't get past a syphon if it is faulty.  With a flush valve you can get leaks which can go undetected for months.  Very expensive if you are on a water meter.
2. Anyone who can get two rusted screws out of the wall, two further rusty screws off from the close coupling kit, remove and clean the cistern, clean the joint on the pan, replace the close coupling kit, replace the syphon, reassemble everything test it and finish in half an hour has achieved a miracle.  To say nothing of replacing the isolation valve (if any) when it leaks after being used. 

I think I will stick to the Dudley "Turbo 88" you suggested.

I felt confident after your first reply, but a bit confused now with the other suggestions.

To answer your original post, I don't believe this is a "low level close coupled WC", so hopefully that means the cistern can stay where it is.

Thankfully I am not on a water meter, so my only concern is a strong and working flush!

Thanks for your replies.

djrock

Hi, you're syphon looks the same as my one, if it is then it does not require the removal of the cistern to change the diaphragm.

Look for a large white plastic nut high up on the left hand side of it. If it has one then you just loosen it then the main part of the syphon will slide up after removing the flush handle rod and it will leave the other part of it in the cistern. Then its just a case of unhooking the flush rod from it to access the diaphragm.