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Can I use water based gloss over old white gloss that is now yellow
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WLM21
Posts: 1,608 Forumite


In the past, I've always used white oil-based undercoat and gloss, but after some serious yellowing, I now think I should try a water-based gloss.
I'll wash the woodwork down, then give it a light sanding .. or do I need a good sanding ?
Will I need a water-based undercoat too, or would the gloss be OK
Which brand is good please ?
It's mainly for the banister, so the least number of coats the better.
I'll wash the woodwork down, then give it a light sanding .. or do I need a good sanding ?
Will I need a water-based undercoat too, or would the gloss be OK
Which brand is good please ?
It's mainly for the banister, so the least number of coats the better.
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Comments
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Use a water based undercoat first.
I find Johnstones Aqua to be best on the market.
Great opacity, dries well, minimal brush marks.
you must use synthetic brushes2 -
Or use a modern oil based paint which doesn't yellow. Far more hardwearing than water based paint.0
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Gloss is just nasty, and yellowing even more so. I'd get a hot air stripper and go to town.No man is worth crawling on this earth.
So much to read, so little time.0 -
I've found Wilko water based gloss to be good, but I've always used a matching undercoat after a light sanding. I've never been able to get quite as good a finish than with oil based though
In my experience, most oil based paints yellow to some degree but I've found the Wilko or Leyland satin paints to be pretty good, and I prefer the slightly less glossy finish0 -
Myself I'd use Crown's One Coat or Dulux's Solo. They'll stay white and give a good adherence.
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Yes, but check for lead paint before you sand. I use wet sand paper, spray the old paint with a little water and then just lightly key it with one or two strokes. That should minimize the dust. (I also have a Henry HZ vacuum for all DIY).
Then two coats of water based paint. I'm using Dulux Smartwood with is more of a sheen. Dulux Diamond Eggshell on skirting. Debatable whether they look quite as good as oil based, and not as tough. Good enough for me though, and ten times easier to clean up with less horrible fumes in the house.
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Another vote for Johnstone's aqua; excellent stuff.0
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Zinsser Allcoat. Inside or out, over gloss without sanding. Wipe down, two coats and you are done.
I have not found a water-based gloss that gives a finish anywhere near as fine as an oil based one. But all oil-based gloss white paints now yellow quickly. Hence, in part, the modern preference for satin/eggshell.
If a different top coat to Zinsser Allcoat is prefered, Zinsser 1-2-3 seems to act a good intermediate 'primer' on oil based gloss. Then add water or oil based top coat of choice.0 -
I used waterbased paint over gloss throughout a big house when I got a alergic reaction to the oil based.It worked well in most parts. There were small places where I found it pealed if anything rubbed against it but only took minutes to redo. I wonder if cleaning with sugarsoap would have been an idea and if these were small areas that had aquired some grease or oil. 2nd undercoat and gloss cured the problem.It also lasted well and never got to yellow in the remaining 8 or 9 yrs after.I used Johnsons waterbased undercoat which is useful for all sorts and good cover. 2 coats of UC for going over oil based.First I used Johnsons waterbased Gloss but when I couldn't get it I got Berger as that's all that was available here. Worked wellJohnsons gloss was easier to spread but dried quickly so there were brush marks if you lost concentration. Bergers gloss sticker to apply but left fewer brush marks.For banister it gets a lot of wear and I found the newel post where I grabbed it and swung round the waterbased wore on high points but it's so quick and easy to touch up and you don't need to do the whole thing because the colour doesn't change that it barely mattered.
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