Creocote Vs Wood Preserver Vs Decking Oil?

Retrogamer

Hi all
Does anyone have experience with one or more of the above?

Last year i painted my shed with 2 coats of Ronseal 1 coat fence / shed paint.
It lasted about 7 months before the sun cased some of it to flake off and fade away.

I'm in the process of removing the rest of it now with a pressure washer leaving my shed with a completely raw wood finish.

I done the same to my fence last year and i treated it with 2 coats of Creocote light brown. It was a bit darker than i would have liked, but it seemed to absorb into the wood great where as the Ronseal paint just sat on top of the wood


I was reading that i could potentially use a clear wood preserver on my shed then a clear oil over the top and it will be well protected and keep the natural wood look.
Then there's decking oil as well.

So many, and i only have experience with the Creocote. 

Creocote is cheaper but the smell is a bit of a nuisance and even the light brown is a bit too dark for me so was wondering how the other ones mentioned fare in the sun and rain over time vs Creocote.

Jeepers_Creepers

It's a minefield, especially if you don't carefully read what each product does.

'Creocote' is obviously hanging on to the coat tails of 'Creosote' (which has now been banned for domestic use due to some carcinogenic ingredients). They are completely different products, tho'.

Creosote was a very effective wood preserver, which also had water-repellent properties; it did two jobs - helped to prevent water from penetrating the timber in the first place, and it helped the timber from rotting if water did get through. It did both jobs very effectively. Sadly, it was also deemed to be harmful to the environment/life.

I bought a tub of Creocote from Wickes a couple of years back, assuming it was a safer updated version. Nope. All it does it add water-repellent properties (and colour the wood like the original stuff). It does not 'preserve' the timber, so won't stop it from rotting should water get in to nooks and crannies (which it will...).

So, if you are concerned by actual 'rot', then you first need a wood 'preserver'. A good one - effective and also nice to use - is Everbuild Lumberjack. It's clear, non-solvent (no stinkies), and easy to use with either a brush or a garden sprayer (which I prefer as you can aim ii into joints and hidden bits). Obviously wear a mask.

One issue is that the Creocote will make it less likely the solvent-free Everbuild will soak in. It all comes down to how weathered the Creocote is.

Anyhoo, once the Lumberjack has dried, you can then add the coating of your choice - either something like 'Garden Shades', or Bedec Barn Paint - both will make it look good and should keep the elements away.

Oh, most likely the reason the shed/fence paint didn't adhere is because your shed timber is smooth and 'planed'? Many are suitable for rough timber only.

Or, use Creocote again to add water-repellance after the preservative. Bear in mind that Creocote is 'solvent'-based, so will make it hard to apply more non-solvent preservative later should you want to.

Or, as you suggest yourself, no reason you can't use Decking Oil - it soaks in to repel water and help prevent the timber from drying out. Again, tho', it doesn't actually 'preserve', only 'protect'.

Slinky

We used the dark creocote on fence panels and found it pretty effective, when we were unable to buy the creosote we'd used before.

I wouldn't use it on a shed though due to the smell. We stored some stuff temporarily in a shed my brother had creosoted. Our Christmas tree had a whiff about it for several years afterwards before it eventually wore off.

Retrogamer

Jeepers_Creepers said:

It's a minefield, especially if you don't carefully read what each product does.

'Creocote' is obviously hanging on to the coat tails of 'Creosote' (which has now been banned for domestic use due to some carcinogenic ingredients). They are completely different products, tho'.

Creosote was a very effective wood preserver, which also had water-repellent properties; it did two jobs - helped to prevent water from penetrating the timber in the first place, and it helped the timber from rotting if water did get through. It did both jobs very effectively. Sadly, it was also deemed to be harmful to the environment/life.

I bought a tub of Creocote from Wickes a couple of years back, assuming it was a safer updated version. Nope. All it does it add water-repellent properties (and colour the wood like the original stuff). It does not 'preserve' the timber, so won't stop it from rotting should water get in to nooks and crannies (which it will...).

So, if you are concerned by actual 'rot', then you first need a wood 'preserver'. A good one - effective and also nice to use - is Everbuild Lumberjack. It's clear, non-solvent (no stinkies), and easy to use with either a brush or a garden sprayer (which I prefer as you can aim ii into joints and hidden bits). Obviously wear a mask.

One issue is that the Creocote will make it less likely the solvent-free Everbuild will soak in. It all comes down to how weathered the Creocote is.

Anyhoo, once the Lumberjack has dried, you can then add the coating of your choice - either something like 'Garden Shades', or Bedec Barn Paint - both will make it look good and should keep the elements away.

Oh, most likely the reason the shed/fence paint didn't adhere is because your shed timber is smooth and 'planed'? Many are suitable for rough timber only.

Or, use Creocote again to add water-repellance after the preservative. Bear in mind that Creocote is 'solvent'-based, so will make it hard to apply more non-solvent preservative later should you want to.

Or, as you suggest yourself, no reason you can't use Decking Oil - it soaks in to repel water and help prevent the timber from drying out. Again, tho', it doesn't actually 'preserve', only 'protect'.

That's some really useful information, thanks very much for taking the time to explain it.

When i moved into the home last year the shed was already there and although it was painted red, it was looking tired with a lot of wood down the bottom bare and super dry and some around the back.
I cleaned it all as best as i could (no pressure washer back then) and i painted it twice over 2 days. The paint stuck well to the areas already painted and up high but the wood that was mega dry and exposed, just went the same way again about 6-8 months later.

But i quite like seeing the grain in the wood so i figured maybe a stainer of some kind, to make it look a bit darker, but not too dark like the creocote. 

I seen some people describing to use a preservative, followed by an oil of some kind. But would that mean re-applying more preservative would be a problem due to the oil on the exterior. Or is it just with creocote because it's solvent based, rather than oil?

Also, when wanting to stain the wood to make it a little bit darker, would you use a strainer in the preservative, or in the oil over the preservative?

Sorry for all the questions but you seem to have a lot more experience with these things than me, and with all the work needed to remove paint it's worth knowing as much as i can before i see what one to go for.

Just for reference, this is my shed just now. (first pic)
The fully exposed panel has creocote on the section touching the ground (slabs) but the rest is bare. 
And the front around the bottom you can see where the Ronseal paint has came off over the last year.

Bottom shed is the type of finish i'd like ideally or maybe a little darker.

Retrogamer

Slinky said:

We used the dark creocote on fence panels and found it pretty effective, when we were unable to buy the creosote we'd used before.

I wouldn't use it on a shed though due to the smell. We stored some stuff temporarily in a shed my brother had creosoted. Our Christmas tree had a whiff about it for several years afterwards before it eventually wore off.

I've done my front small fence in creocote last year after pressure washing it (2 coats) i forgot about the smell and decided to do a garden table in it, i had restored recently 
Hopefully the smell will fade a bit.

I was originally going to do the other fences and sheds with the creocote this year as well but my neighbours have washings out every day and often sit in the garden so might be a bit more considerate and better in the long term if i use something a bit less smelly

greyteam1959

Creocote = rubbish.
Don't use decking oil either.
Use something like this.
It is still solvent based so is really easy to apply & it also soaks right into the timber.
Smell goes in a few days.
Excellent value & highly recommended.

https://www.toolstation.com/wood-protective-treatment-5l/p93006

Jeepers_Creepers

Retrogamer said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

It's a minefield, especially if you don't carefully read what each product does.

'Creocote' is obviously hanging on to the coat tails of 'Creosote' (which has now been banned for domestic use due to some carcinogenic ingredients). They are completely different products, tho'.

Creosote was a very effective wood preserver, which also had water-repellent properties; it did two jobs - helped to prevent water from penetrating the timber in the first place, and it helped the timber from rotting if water did get through. It did both jobs very effectively. Sadly, it was also deemed to be harmful to the environment/life.

I bought a tub of Creocote from Wickes a couple of years back, assuming it was a safer updated version. Nope. All it does it add water-repellent properties (and colour the wood like the original stuff). It does not 'preserve' the timber, so won't stop it from rotting should water get in to nooks and crannies (which it will...).

So, if you are concerned by actual 'rot', then you first need a wood 'preserver'. A good one - effective and also nice to use - is Everbuild Lumberjack. It's clear, non-solvent (no stinkies), and easy to use with either a brush or a garden sprayer (which I prefer as you can aim ii into joints and hidden bits). Obviously wear a mask.

One issue is that the Creocote will make it less likely the solvent-free Everbuild will soak in. It all comes down to how weathered the Creocote is.

Anyhoo, once the Lumberjack has dried, you can then add the coating of your choice - either something like 'Garden Shades', or Bedec Barn Paint - both will make it look good and should keep the elements away.

Oh, most likely the reason the shed/fence paint didn't adhere is because your shed timber is smooth and 'planed'? Many are suitable for rough timber only.

Or, use Creocote again to add water-repellance after the preservative. Bear in mind that Creocote is 'solvent'-based, so will make it hard to apply more non-solvent preservative later should you want to.

Or, as you suggest yourself, no reason you can't use Decking Oil - it soaks in to repel water and help prevent the timber from drying out. Again, tho', it doesn't actually 'preserve', only 'protect'.

That's some really useful information, thanks very much for taking the time to explain it.

When i moved into the home last year the shed was already there and although it was painted red, it was looking tired with a lot of wood down the bottom bare and super dry and some around the back.
I cleaned it all as best as i could (no pressure washer back then) and i painted it twice over 2 days. The paint stuck well to the areas already painted and up high but the wood that was mega dry and exposed, just went the same way again about 6-8 months later.

But i quite like seeing the grain in the wood so i figured maybe a stainer of some kind, to make it look a bit darker, but not too dark like the creocote. 

I seen some people describing to use a preservative, followed by an oil of some kind. But would that mean re-applying more preservative would be a problem due to the oil on the exterior. Or is it just with creocote because it's solvent based, rather than oil?

Also, when wanting to stain the wood to make it a little bit darker, would you use a strainer in the preservative, or in the oil over the preservative?

Sorry for all the questions but you seem to have a lot more experience with these things than me, and with all the work needed to remove paint it's worth knowing as much as i can before i see what one to go for.

Just for reference, this is my shed just now. (first pic)
The fully exposed panel has creocote on the section touching the ground (slabs) but the rest is bare. 
And the front around the bottom you can see where the Ronseal paint has came off over the last year.

Bottom shed is the type of finish i'd like ideally or maybe a little darker.

Nice shed, and it looks in good order.

Yes, once you coat it in a solvent-based finish, applying a non-solvent preserver is going to struggle to be absorbed. Underneath that red paint, the timber looks to be bare, so should take in preserver nicely, should you wish to do this. Once 'preserved', you shouldn't have to do that bit again, just give it fresh coats of protective finish.

I think the product linked to by greyteam is a good bet - it's made for the job. Allow the preserver to dry fully, and then this 'oil' will soak in nicely and should give you a good finish and effective water protection.

I see it comes in clear as well.

That shed in the bottom pic is, I presume, bare timber. To get as close to that as possible, then obviously 'clear' is your best choice. But you might prefer the 'light' shade which GT linked to.

If there's any suggestion of rot, then I'd personally 'preserve' first.

Retrogamer

greyteam1959 said:

Creocote = rubbish.
Don't use decking oil either.
Use something like this.
It is still solvent based so is really easy to apply & it also soaks right into the timber.
Smell goes in a few days.
Excellent value & highly recommended.

https://www.toolstation.com/wood-protective-treatment-5l/p93006

How long does that one last between treatments?
I think i'm going to pick up some of that, in clear and a clear preservative as well to put into the wood first.

Retrogamer

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Retrogamer said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

It's a minefield, especially if you don't carefully read what each product does.

'Creocote' is obviously hanging on to the coat tails of 'Creosote' (which has now been banned for domestic use due to some carcinogenic ingredients). They are completely different products, tho'.

Creosote was a very effective wood preserver, which also had water-repellent properties; it did two jobs - helped to prevent water from penetrating the timber in the first place, and it helped the timber from rotting if water did get through. It did both jobs very effectively. Sadly, it was also deemed to be harmful to the environment/life.

I bought a tub of Creocote from Wickes a couple of years back, assuming it was a safer updated version. Nope. All it does it add water-repellent properties (and colour the wood like the original stuff). It does not 'preserve' the timber, so won't stop it from rotting should water get in to nooks and crannies (which it will...).

So, if you are concerned by actual 'rot', then you first need a wood 'preserver'. A good one - effective and also nice to use - is Everbuild Lumberjack. It's clear, non-solvent (no stinkies), and easy to use with either a brush or a garden sprayer (which I prefer as you can aim ii into joints and hidden bits). Obviously wear a mask.

One issue is that the Creocote will make it less likely the solvent-free Everbuild will soak in. It all comes down to how weathered the Creocote is.

Anyhoo, once the Lumberjack has dried, you can then add the coating of your choice - either something like 'Garden Shades', or Bedec Barn Paint - both will make it look good and should keep the elements away.

Oh, most likely the reason the shed/fence paint didn't adhere is because your shed timber is smooth and 'planed'? Many are suitable for rough timber only.

Or, use Creocote again to add water-repellance after the preservative. Bear in mind that Creocote is 'solvent'-based, so will make it hard to apply more non-solvent preservative later should you want to.

Or, as you suggest yourself, no reason you can't use Decking Oil - it soaks in to repel water and help prevent the timber from drying out. Again, tho', it doesn't actually 'preserve', only 'protect'.

That's some really useful information, thanks very much for taking the time to explain it.

When i moved into the home last year the shed was already there and although it was painted red, it was looking tired with a lot of wood down the bottom bare and super dry and some around the back.
I cleaned it all as best as i could (no pressure washer back then) and i painted it twice over 2 days. The paint stuck well to the areas already painted and up high but the wood that was mega dry and exposed, just went the same way again about 6-8 months later.

But i quite like seeing the grain in the wood so i figured maybe a stainer of some kind, to make it look a bit darker, but not too dark like the creocote. 

I seen some people describing to use a preservative, followed by an oil of some kind. But would that mean re-applying more preservative would be a problem due to the oil on the exterior. Or is it just with creocote because it's solvent based, rather than oil?

Also, when wanting to stain the wood to make it a little bit darker, would you use a strainer in the preservative, or in the oil over the preservative?

Sorry for all the questions but you seem to have a lot more experience with these things than me, and with all the work needed to remove paint it's worth knowing as much as i can before i see what one to go for.

Just for reference, this is my shed just now. (first pic)
The fully exposed panel has creocote on the section touching the ground (slabs) but the rest is bare. 
And the front around the bottom you can see where the Ronseal paint has came off over the last year.

Bottom shed is the type of finish i'd like ideally or maybe a little darker.

Nice shed, and it looks in good order.

Yes, once you coat it in a solvent-based finish, applying a non-solvent preserver is going to struggle to be absorbed. Underneath that red paint, the timber looks to be bare, so should take in preserver nicely, should you wish to do this. Once 'preserved', you shouldn't have to do that bit again, just give it fresh coats of protective finish.

I think the product linked to by greyteam is a good bet - it's made for the job. Allow the preserver to dry fully, and then this 'oil' will soak in nicely and should give you a good finish and effective water protection.

I see it comes in clear as well.

That shed in the bottom pic is, I presume, bare timber. To get as close to that as possible, then obviously 'clear' is your best choice. But you might prefer the 'light' shade which GT linked to.

If there's any suggestion of rot, then I'd personally 'preserve' first.

Thanks, i think i was lucky and got to it just in time before any real damage had set in.

The grass was long and its often wet here when i first moved in so some of the wooden panels near the bottom were dry and a bit eroded compared to panels higher up so i think i'm going to buy some clear, solvent free preservative, 2 coats minimum, then the same with the solvent based protection one linked above, in clear over the top.

If the clear is too light, then when ever i need to top it up, i could try a darker shade instead. 

Jeepers_Creepers

That makes sense.

Think of how it gets wet - rain hits the side and runs down, so the bottom boards are the ones left almost permanently damp. Soak them most, also aiming the spray under and upwards along that bottom board. Ditto if the shed is sitting on timber rails - try and soak them when it's dry.

The ends of boards too - that's where water gets drawn in, so give the corners a good spraying.

I presume it has a window? In which case that's another weak point - give the window frame a good youknowwhat. And the door side - lots of framework and stuff there, all liable to trap and hold water - spray!

The front and rear fascia boards - soak, and also behind them where they are in contact with the felt.

Sensible move with the coating - go for clear first and see what it looks like; it's easy to go darker, but not in reverse!

Retrogamer

Jeepers_Creepers said:

That makes sense.

Think of how it gets wet - rain hits the side and runs down, so the bottom boards are the ones left almost permanently damp. Soak them most, also aiming the spray under and upwards along that bottom board. Ditto if the shed is sitting on timber rails - try and soak them when it's dry.

The ends of boards too - that's where water gets drawn in, so give the corners a good spraying.

I presume it has a window? In which case that's another weak point - give the window frame a good youknowwhat. And the door side - lots of framework and stuff there, all liable to trap and hold water - spray!

The front and rear fascia boards - soak, and also behind them where they are in contact with the felt.

Sensible move with the coating - go for clear first and see what it looks like; it's easy to go darker, but not in reverse!

Ahh i thought it might have not helped as well with the wed crash being all around it. I keep it short though so it stays away  from the side panels.

There's no window on this shed but i do plan to get into all the exposed nooks and crannies to make sure it's well saturated in both.

I was planning to use a brush on one as the preservative then likewise with the protective layer linked above.

This was the preservative i was looking at.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323364107507?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=52297d2315c744abbe6fbdb4fa99b853&pid=100675&rk=2&rkt=15&sd=233471437057&itm=323364107507&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:04da398d-d202-11eb-b790-a6b71c8d69d6|parentrq:2b01abff17a0a4d4b7b5881ffffa886e|iid:1