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Pinhole leak repair in hard to access pipe
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We had a similar problem a few years ago. We ended up just adding a new section of pipe and by-passing the section with the hole in (which is still embedded in the wall).2.22kWp Solar PV system installed Oct 2010, Fronius IG20 Inverter, south facing (-5 deg), 30 degree pitch, no shadingEverything will be alright in the end so, if it’s not yet alright, it means it’s not yet the endMFW #4 OPs: 2018 £866.89, 2019 £1322.33, 2020 £1337.07
2021 £1250.00, 2022 £1500.00, 2023 £1500, 2024 £13502025 target = £1200, YTD £9190
Quidquid Latine dictum sit altum videtur2 -
Tried and, unfortunately, failed with the copper patch. Just couldn't get it hot enough to melt the solder, despite using a proper gas torch. They all seem to rate it on YT but all the vids I've seen show them using the torch directly on top of the patch, not when it has be done indirectly.
We've managed to stick a piece of rubber tape held on with a jubilee clip, thanks for the earlier suggestion.1 -
neilmcl said:Tried and, unfortunately, failed with the copper patch. Just couldn't get it hot enough to melt the solder, despite using a proper gas torch. They all seem to rate it on YT but all the vids I've seen show them using the torch directly on top of the patch, not when it has be done indirectly.
We've managed to stick a piece of rubber tape held on with a jubilee clip, thanks for the earlier suggestion.For any yorkie to work, the whole fitting needs to be at the required temp, so I'm surprised the patch didn't work for you. Mind you, it is a much larger area to cover, so I guess it's quite possible that one end would cool as you focussed on the other!Seriously, cut out the unwanted section - leaving a good inch of remaining ends - and fit a new section using the slip Yorkies. I can't see any reason at all why this wouldn't work.Cut slowly to reduce burr. Clean up any burr that will be formed. Clean pipe ends using wire wool. Jobbie jobbed.0 -
You won't get it to temperature if there's any water in the pipe at all. Ensure the water has been removed from the bottom, and ideally that the pipe is open on one end.2
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All sorted, but not the best job in the world. The plumber didn't clock that the pipe was 1/2" not 15mm and ended up forcing on standard slip couplings to join a new section of pipe. No surprise that the solder couldn't get into the joins and it leaked.
He ended up having to cut out the repair and using compression fittings instead although, in hindsight, not sure why he didn't use Yorkshire 1/2" 15mm couplings, probably didn't have any in his van.
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Sounds like a terrible plumber!1
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A tad too presumptuous, yes!0
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Jeepers_Creepers said:A tad too presumptuous, yes!
It was local firm of plumbers but they must've sent out their apprentice. I'm not sure my dad will be using them again, even if they did come out on the same day, and I won't be happy if they charge more than an hour's labour as most of the time was taken rectifying his earlier cockup.0 -
Provided that draining down the pipe wasn't an issue - these are the sorts of things that can take time - then cutting out the pipe, cleaning the ends and fitting a new section with slip-ons is a doddle. Surely a '1-hour max' job, even allowing for refilling and testing.If it took just over an hour, then I agree with you - this must have been down to their, um, what shall we call it? So I'd also be inclined to suggest they make it 1 hour max charge.0
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Well the difference between 1/2 inch and and 15mm is so miniscule you can use the same fittings so the plumber went on a best guess instinct and defaulted to the fact that 15mm has been the current sizing for a long time now.
You cant tell by looking at it so cut the plumber some slack.
As for the corrosion, its sitting tight on the concrete, concrete eats the pipe thats why they are now sleeved when going through walls.0
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