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Replacing toilet fill valve and metal fitting underneath....

benson1980
Posts: 837 Forumite


Hi all,
I need to replace my toilet fill valve so I isolated the water, and removed the valve no problem. However, the bit to where the fill valve thread attaches is different to what I have encountered before and not really sure whether I have broken something? As you can see in the photo there is a metal ring washer that just came off the metal pipe, along with the nut, as I was unscrewing everything. This is very tight to get back over the pipe, and just not sure really how the nut now fits to form a watertight seal if that makes sense with this washer bit loose...
Any help much appreciated.

I need to replace my toilet fill valve so I isolated the water, and removed the valve no problem. However, the bit to where the fill valve thread attaches is different to what I have encountered before and not really sure whether I have broken something? As you can see in the photo there is a metal ring washer that just came off the metal pipe, along with the nut, as I was unscrewing everything. This is very tight to get back over the pipe, and just not sure really how the nut now fits to form a watertight seal if that makes sense with this washer bit loose...
Any help much appreciated.

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Comments
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Odd, replace it, it loks manky anyway. Get a new normal curt off to put onto the plastic bit (rememebr the ptfe (and imo anways use gas ptfe it is better and costs the same)).1
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That olive shouldn't be there if it's a tap connector; the seal is made by a fibre washer (which you'll want to replace).
If it's a regular compression joiner then replace it with a tap connector fitting.
Don't use PTFE on compression or tap connector fittings - it's only for when threads make the seal - like radiator tails.
You can see where the plastic thread has been mangled, but it might be alright. If there is enough play in the pipes then you could cut the plastic back, but it will need to be a straight and smooth cut.1 -
I had to replace my Plastic shanked filler valve with a brass shanked filler valve because the thread was damaged
now i only buy the brass shanked ones0 -
Thanks all- I've probably oversold my plumbing knowledge here in that I've done two of these in my lifetime and not had this issue before
. The plastic thread is just the old filler valve so I was going to buy a new one with a brass fitting. If I just get a new connection and start again (and potentially remove the isolator valve thing), is this the best way? I only need a temporary fix as this house (and bathroom) is a do-er upper and the toilet will get replaced at some point. If I get something like this and potentially cut back the water pipe a few inches to give sufficient room, would this work- Grenage, is that what you are referring to? Does this just push fit onto the old metal pipe and then I can collect up to the new filler valve on the other end?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-push-fit-flexible-tap-connector-hoses-15mm-x-x-300mm-2-pack/2475G?tc=FC6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw-qeFBhAsEiwA2G7Nl5ua7HK3PP9TFEQDjWiIeqSX20OP0ZaiX5qhKX-xH2ODHiIsYRTrlxoCw8IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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benson1980 said:Thanks all- I've probably oversold my plumbing knowledge here in that I've done two of these in my lifetime and not had this issue before
. The plastic thread is just the old filler valve so I was going to buy a new one with a brass fitting. If I just get a new connection and start again (and potentially remove the isolator valve thing), is this the best way? I only need a temporary fix as this house (and bathroom) is a do-er upper and the toilet will get replaced at some point. If I get something like this and potentially cut back the water pipe a few inches to give sufficient room, would this work- Grenage, is that what you are referring to? Does this just push fit onto the old metal pipe and then I can collect up to the new filler valve on the other end?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-push-fit-flexible-tap-connector-hoses-15mm-x-x-300mm-2-pack/2475G?tc=FC6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw-qeFBhAsEiwA2G7Nl5ua7HK3PP9TFEQDjWiIeqSX20OP0ZaiX5qhKX-xH2ODHiIsYRTrlxoCw8IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Also, those are tap hoses, what @Grenage is referring to are just the connector itself, ie, https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/58294 , by the looks of it you already have a tap connector fitting, albeit with an isolation valve built in.1 -
You can certainly do it that way, yup. You might want a hose with an isolator if you're going to cut back (or fit an isolator before the hose).
Something like this, although you could obviously use push-fit instead.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-15mm-x-x-300mm/3558G?tc=FT1&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw-qeFBhAsEiwA2G7Nl4Y-5M8L0boXgybHSOjYjwIT5r3PBGJFLk5ZSTFcesBb8JRVE5NoPxoC6rAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
If you can get a 15mm compression to 1/2 tap connector with an isolator then you won't need to cut any pipe and use a hose.
This is all assuming that the existing fitting doesn't have a tap connector on one side. If it does - just replace the washer.1 -
ok thanks again- think I've got a better idea of what I'm doing now. A few different options but just understanding the right terminology for what I have in front of me i.e. compression fitting, is most helpful0
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benson1980 said:ok thanks again- think I've got a better idea of what I'm doing now. A few different options but just understanding the right terminology for what I have in front of me i.e. compression fitting, is most helpful0
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neilmcl said:benson1980 said:ok thanks again- think I've got a better idea of what I'm doing now. A few different options but just understanding the right terminology for what I have in front of me i.e. compression fitting, is most helpful
Therefore I thought I was looking at this kind of setup..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpIh1u_Y3h0&ab_channel=Tommy%27sYard
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