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Epc rating
User4search
Posts: 119 Forumite
in Energy
How is ot calculated? Is low epc rated house use more energy to run appliances and cost more? How to improve from f to c or does it matter?
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Comments
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1. A quick search:
http://energicert.net/see-how-a-survey-is-conducted/
2. In theory more gas / electric is used, depends on the individual user.
3. See 1 above and make changes, if it's viable.
I'm with the expensive Big6 supplier in an old Scottish flat, my gas and electric cost just over £515 over the last 12 months, would have been less but my OH had been shredding a load of garden waste the last few months. The EPC suggested things like filling (injecting) the building structure (never in a million years), fitting the air source heating and other things which would are not compatible with the fabric of the building or would cost too much for such a tiny benefit over many years and I would probably be dead before breaking even.
Edit to add - it's D69, if I make changes it would be C77. Estimated running costs for 3 years is £1776.
I didn't even pay attention to the EPC when buying as it wouldn't have influenced my decision.Mortgage started 2020, aiming to clear 31/12/2029.0 -
IMO an EPC isn't really worth the paper that it gets printed on. Over the years I've had five done (but only because I needed to have them) and in my experience they are done by someone who doesn't really know what they are doing.
They fill in a tick box form on a computer which then spews out a rough guess at how much energy the place might need, together with a list of unrealistic and costly ideas to bolster the energy saving industry.Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large numbers2 -
The EPC database that all ‘surveyors’ use is managed by the Buildings Research Establishment. As you say, it is just a box ticking exercise. That said, you might have paid £00s for the latest energy saving device (eg; smart heating controls) only to find that they are ignored as far as the EPC is concerned. Why: simply because the BRE insists that anything from boilers through to thermostats has to be BRE tested before it is included in the database. I know this as I found out the hard way when an Evohome control system was deemed to be no more energy saving than a home with two standard thermostats and standard TRVs. ErP claims are based on nothing more than manufacturer self testing.matelodave said:IMO an EPC isn't really worth the paper that it gets printed on. Over the years I've had five done (but only because I needed to have them) and in my experience they are done by someone who doesn't really know what they are doing.
They fill in a tick box form on a computer which then spews out a rough guess at how much energy the place might need, together with a list of unrealistic and costly ideas to bolster the energy saving industry.
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Dolor is spot on, we moved from a 1930s brick detached to an 1900 stone cottage. The old house was a B because we did all the things that the EPC counts.
The current house is a F because it has no wall insulation and no central heating. However, the walls are 2 foot thick and south facing with a conservatory so it behaves a bit like an earth ship.
The current house is warmer in my opinion and stays at a year round consistent temperature of 15 degrees despite no central heating.
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I couldn't agree more except that my EPCs achieved a much more accurate estimate of my actual energy usage than a hugely thorough MCS evaluation which determined I would use much more energy (for heating and hot water) than has been the case for the two years I have lived here.matelodave said:IMO an EPC isn't really worth the paper that it gets printed on. Over the years I've had five done (but only because I needed to have them) and in my experience they are done by someone who doesn't really know what they are doing.
They fill in a tick box form on a computer which then spews out a rough guess at how much energy the place might need, together with a list of unrealistic and costly ideas to bolster the energy saving industry.Reed0
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