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Ronseal matt medium oak varnish - has green hue

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Hi everyone,

I have put a couple of coats on some softwood shelves (underside) as a test patch and its got a green hue. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I have double checked the can and there does not seem to be a mention of a colour tint. The wording for 'Matt' is in green but I seem to recall that being the same for all the different colours (dark oak etc.). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to rectify this? 

I am afraid to put it on the correct side as it will be the wrong colour.

Thanks

Littlemiss


Comments

  • Alanp
    Alanp Posts: 763 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Did you stir it...?
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,848 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 17 April 2021 at 3:49PM
    I've done quite a lot of wood stains and varnishes in our house, and it can be really difficult to get the colour just right to keep my wife happy. 
    For example an oak floorboard from one source will turn out a different colour using the same stain to one from another source.
    Softwoods often do take on a greenish shade with an oak stain. 
    The problem is that the colour you see on the tin may not be the colour you end up with.
    At least you have tested it out first. You could try a stain first before the varnish.

  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,848 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    This door was new oak all done with same stain, but made with different oaks and looks different in places.rent 
  • DD265
    DD265 Posts: 2,223 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Homepage Hero Name Dropper
    We've used it on our desks (made from reclaimed scaffold boards) and whilst the wet varnish did have a green hue in the tin, it doesn't on the finished article. If I recall correctly, I did three coats.

    How green is yours?
  • Apodemus
    Apodemus Posts: 3,410 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Stuart, that's a really nice door and I love the fixings!  I'm interested, though, in the nails and why you've nailed it from the ledge/brace side?  Are these short hand-made rosehead nails that are within the depth of the boards or clinched on the face of the door?  (A pic of the front would be great!)  I have a pile of solid beech flooring that I want to use for some ledge and brace internal cottage doors, hence my interest.

    With apols to Littlemiss19 for hi-jacking the thread.  :)
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,848 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Apodemus said:
    Stuart, that's a really nice door and I love the fixings!  I'm interested, though, in the nails and why you've nailed it from the ledge/brace side?  Are these short hand-made rosehead nails that are within the depth of the boards or clinched on the face of the door?  (A pic of the front would be great!)  I have a pile of solid beech flooring that I want to use for some ledge and brace internal cottage doors, hence my interest.

    With apols to Littlemiss19 for hi-jacking the thread.  :)
    Thanks for the positive feedback.
    They are short rose heads, and it's nailed from both sides. I think there are some lost head nails in there as well. The rose heads are the look my wife insisted on. The traditional way was to use longer ones and bend the ends over. I did this on some cupboard doors I made.

    This is the other side.


    On a door I did for the porch before that one I used these studs, which she was not too impressed with. Looking at the photo reminds me I must get round to fixing the door stop on the frame after 15 years.




















































































  • Apodemus
    Apodemus Posts: 3,410 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Stuart,

    Thanks for posting these extra pics, really love both doors.   I hadn't thought of using short nails from both sides - it might be a better option for me, as I want both sides to be presentable.  Of course any ironwork will be much more noticeable on my beech than it is on your darker oak.  You've also managed to butt the boards much closer than I was thinking - I'm currently minded to rebate the planks and undecided about beading the edge.  I suspect your wood is also more stable, while I probably need to allow for a bit of movement.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,848 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    They are some of the T+G oak floorboards I had for doing the lounge floor.
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