Stopcock not working

Jeepers_Creepers

They list the O rings separately   (along with a small Hex key - so it'll be a grub screw holding).

https://www.tapmagician.co.uk/NSManufacturersShoppingSelect.aspx?QA53L?Brita?Titanium

Grizzlebeard

When my old brain typed "Teflon tape" should have said PTFE tape.

Anyhows Jeepers_Creepers contribution is a whole lot more helpful than mine.
Good luck.

Jeepers_Creepers

Yikes! Don't wobble the tap body like this!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NCtcMUu7Ps

Grizzlebeard

Brilliant info Jeepers.

With the rubber pipe you'd have thought they'd design in an O ring or washer at the aerator end to stop the spout filling up in the first place, Still need the bottom ones as bearings.

Jeepers_Creepers

Grizzlebeard said:

Brilliant info Jeepers.

With the rubber pipe you'd have thought they'd design in an O ring or washer at the aerator end to stop the spout filling up in the first place, Still need the bottom ones as bearings.

Obviously the fresh water is delivered via that hose direct to the spout. The normal H&C travel up the spout itself, so when you turn off the H&C taps, the spout only empties as far as the lowest part of the upper curve. The vertical part of the spout as it comes out the tap body remains full of water, and it's this that then trickles out past the worn O rings even when the tap is turned off. At least until the spout is empty!

goodValue

As I had no way of switching off the water, I decided to get moving on all the other house-moving jobs.

I was going to spend a few minutes a day on the stopcock, so I could loosen it without having to put too much strain on the pipework.

However it didn't loosen up. At first, there was a small amount of movement, but it didn't get any better.On looking closer, I think this small amount of play is between the spindle and tap handle - the spindle is stuck solid.

And now I don't want to put a lot of force on the tap handle in case it snaps off.

ic

FreeBear said:

If this is the only stopcock to isolate the supply, then your local water authority should change it free of charge.

Not so - I wanted to relocate my stopcock when refitting the kitchen, and discovered the stopcock in the road had been covered in concrete.  United Utilities refused to come and fix it, they argued that as they had no legal right to disconnect a home, they didn't need the tap to function in the street.  I was told to freeze the pipes in the house in order to make changes.  Anything within the bounds of your home is your responsibility - not the water company.

Jeepers_Creepers

goodValue said:

As I had no way of switching off the water, I decided to get moving on all the other house-moving jobs.

I was going to spend a few minutes a day on the stopcock, so I could loosen it without having to put too much strain on the pipework.

However it didn't loosen up. At first, there was a small amount of movement, but it didn't get any better.On looking closer, I think this small amount of play is between the spindle and tap handle - the spindle is stuck solid.

And now I don't want to put a lot of force on the tap handle in case it snaps off.

Your call what to do about it.

If you ID the meter and get a key for it, then by all means have a further go at the stopcock. Two spanners/wrenches - one clamped on the valve body to counter the turning movement, and t'other on the tap handle. Make sure you are turning it the right way.

Or, are you up to replacing it? Measure its overall length first, and ensure the replacement is similar. Undo both nuts and ease off the '!!!!!!. Smear of Fernox Hawk White on the old olive and thread, and fit the new ones using the old nuts.

Or, take the old one out to your garage and dismantle it, lubricating the thread mech inside. Or, leave it until you need a plumber for another job...

goodValue

See the first smaller nut around that spindle? That's called the 'gland nut'. This nut acts on a washer underneath, usually rubber but sometimes fabric. When you tighten that nut, the washer is squished flat and squeazes out sideways and so seals against that spindle to stop water seeping by. So, that nut should be tightened just enough to stop any weep, but no more. You can undo it quite safely - the worst that'll happen is that it'll drip

I found out which was my meter, and got a key to switch it off.

So now I could try greater force on the stopcock without fear of a flood.

But it still wouldn't move.

I'd also been trying to loosen the gland nut, and eventually got this to move.

However, the spindle and tap move with it - I wasn't expecting that.

I'm thinking of getting a similar size stopcock ( assuming the internal components will be the same as original stopcock).

Then I can unscrew the gland nut completely, and replace what comes out with it, from the new stopcock.

Is this a good idea?

southcoastrgi

ic said:

Not so - I wanted to relocate my stopcock when refitting the kitchen, and discovered the stopcock in the road had been covered in concrete.  United Utilities refused to come and fix it, they argued that as they had no legal right to disconnect a home, they didn't need the tap to function in the street.  I was told to freeze the pipes in the house in order to make changes.  Anything within the bounds of your home is your responsibility - not the water company.

Do you pay united utilities for your water bill ?

They aren't correct or you misunderstood, the company stoptap belongs to them & they have an obligation to make sure it works