Capping off unwanted pipes

danrv

Hi
I’m about to put a new subfloor in my bathroom and there’s spare hot, cold and waste pipes from a bidet that I removed (centre pic).
Ideally I’d cut them shorter as they’re no longer needed but the cold has a constant feed from tanks in the loft. Doesn’t seem to be an isolation tap.
The Speedfit caps work well and I could possibly install a cabinet or something to cover them. The loft tank would need emptying 
in order to modify the cold feed.
Would appreciated any ideas.

YellowCarBlueCar

Draining down the tank doesn't sound such an onerous task.  You could even tie the ball-!!!!!! into its closed position and continue to use the water until the tank is (nearly) empty if you don't want to waste the water so long as you don't use anything that needs a steady supply e.e. shower pump.
it would be a lot less hassle, and a neater job, than outing a cabinet around the stubs.

David713

YellowCarBlueCar said:

Draining down the tank doesn't sound such an onerous task.  You could even tie the ball-!!!!!! into its closed position and continue to use the water until the tank is (nearly) empty 

and it would be an ideal opportunity for checking to see if the tank needs cleaning out and getting a shut off valve fitted to the outlet line of the tank.

Belenus

You can buy freezer kits to freeze the cold water while you modify the pipework.

You do have to be confident that you can shorten and cap the pipe before the ice in the pipe starts to melt.

I'd advise you to drain the cold tank as above and avoid the cost and risk of the freezer kit.

danrv

YellowCarBlueCar said:

 so long as you don't use anything that needs a steady supply e.e. shower pump.

Thanks for the replies. 
Everything is on direct mains apart from the bidet supply. 
The three tanks in the loft are for this and the immersion heater top up/expansion.
If I do the cut pipes down, I’m assuming a different type of cap would be needed for a more permanent fit.
Also the waste pipe would need capping too.

UPDATE:  Have just checked and there is an isolation 
valve near the tank. One of those old red wheel types.
Can’t get it to budge yet.

Ajmason42

If cutting back pipes cut them as far back as possible you don’t want dead legs from a legionella perspective. Ie water going stagnant 

danrv

Ajmason42 said:

If cutting back pipes cut them as far back as possible you don’t want dead legs from a legionella perspective. Ie water going stagnant 

Thanks. Good point.
I could cut it at the tank and possibly remove the copper pipe. 

danrv

Just looking into this before I put subfloor in, the hot pipe is a short stem off the bath feed so can put a compression cap there.
The cold I can cut near the valve at the tank and remove the visible sections in the loft and in the bathroom.
The cold feed runs in an enclosed box down the wall and not too sure if I can remove this part. Ok to leave in situ?

The length of dead legs should be around twice the width so not too sure about the gate valve as there’s several inches of 15mm pipe.
As the tanks only feed the immersion, keeping the outlet as a valve or tap would be useful for draining 
anytime.
Maybe an idea to get a plumber in to advise.
Any ideas appreciated.

Gate at the loft tank.