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Two appliances in a 32 amp outlet

Hardes
Posts: 2 Newbie
Hi,
I have a single 32 amp box but want to connect 2 appliances to it. Both appliances are 13 amp. One is 13 amps, 3KW and comes with a 13 amp plug. The other one is also a 13 amp but needs to be hardwired to a fused spur and comes with no plug.
I have a single 32 amp box but want to connect 2 appliances to it. Both appliances are 13 amp. One is 13 amps, 3KW and comes with a 13 amp plug. The other one is also a 13 amp but needs to be hardwired to a fused spur and comes with no plug.
What is my best option? I will have a carpenter and electrician coming over but I want to make sure nothing is missing. I already have a dual connection plate but not sure if a dual regular dual plug is better
maybe the dual connection plate, where I can plug the 13amp oven that needs to be hardwired and then connect a fused plug to the other connection?
I think I can connect it, as it’s a new place with new electric connections and a fused 32 amps box. As both oven and hob are 13 amps with 3kw each, I hope the electrician will come up with a solution
please let me know just for my peace of mind how will they collect it, in very simple terms
many thanks
maybe the dual connection plate, where I can plug the 13amp oven that needs to be hardwired and then connect a fused plug to the other connection?
I think I can connect it, as it’s a new place with new electric connections and a fused 32 amps box. As both oven and hob are 13 amps with 3kw each, I hope the electrician will come up with a solution
please let me know just for my peace of mind how will they collect it, in very simple terms

many thanks
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Comments
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What you describe sounds very much like a cooker point, where the cooker is hard wired and there is a 13 amp socket in the same housing. If you are connecting 2 appliances which both require 13 amps to a 32 amp supply I don't see any problem.
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Total current rating wise (with diversity allowances) it's likely no problem to supply both from a 32A 'cooker' circuit and isolator (with or without an 'extra' 13A socket on that isolator plate above the counter).
Correctly protecting the two appliance(s) and their cable(s) is another matter.
Me? I'd probably fit a double unswitched 13 A outlet in place of the 'cooker fcu' and fit a plug to the appliance without one assuming that 13A fusing is permitted in the install manual (and not 16A or 20A, say). The cooker switch would then isolate both hob and oven simultaneously. To isolate each separately would be more difficult and expensive.
Your electrician will advise on the best way to do it and/or options and price(s) for those options.
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One thing to check is that dual 13A sockets aren't always rated for 26A total. Read the manufacturer's data, and assume not if you can't find the data.A single 13A socket and a 13A FCU (fused connection unit) would work. It would need 2 single back-boxes.If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
Ectophile said:One thing to check is that dual 13A sockets aren't always rated for 26A total. Read the manufacturer's data, and assume not if you can't find the data.AFAIK, they are never 26A rated. There is an urban myth about some particular brand that appears to be untrue if you do some research.A single 13A socket and a 13A FCU (fused connection unit) would work. It would need 2 single back-boxes.Absolutely. I'd do two FCUs, but this can affect the warranty of the appliance with a plug.
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