Electric cooker power gone

dander

Can anyone hazard a guess as to what I've done to my cooker. I have lost all power to the cooker - everything has gone, ovens, timer, gas hob ignition. It happened when I tried using two ovens on full at one time so I guess I overloaded the circuit. But the fuse in the fuse box hasn't blown. The socket is this exact one ( https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-45a-2-gang-dp-cooker-switch-13a-dp-switched-socket-white/17157#product_additional_details_container ) and the 3-pin socket is still working. Does that indicate that the whole socket would be working and I've completely screwed the entire cooker? Or is it possible that something's gone in the cooker half of the socket and that isn't supplying power to the cooker, even though the other socket is still working?
If it is the socket - how does one fix something like this? Do I need to replace the socket?

Jeepers_Creepers

As you've sussed, if the 13A socket is still working, then you haven't blown a fuse/ tripped an MCB.

As far as I know, most ovens don't have internal fuses either.

So, since everything is dead in t'oven, I guess that leaves the wiring. Most likely, I think, will be a high resistance connection either at that cooker control unit, an 'outlet' connection if there is one, or where the cable connects to the oven.

Process of elimination - TURN THE POWER OFF, and first check where the oven cable enters the wall (ie if there's a cooker outlet plate) as that will be the easiest to look at. Look for signs of overheating in the terminals, or melted plastic insulation. Also test for power there (yes, the power needs to go back on...) - do you have a test screwdriver or meter?

If there's power there, then it's on to the oven. How to access the cable connection there will depend on the actual oven. Post a photo of this if you need guidance.

EssexExile

Could be any one of many things from the cable to the cooker onwards. Do you have any test equipment to check it with?

dander

Thanks for the help. I went down that process of elimination route in a basic equipment sort of a way - wired it to a plug and plugged it in. Timer clock immediately came on. Didn't test the ovens for safety's sake but I feel confident now that I haven't destroyed the cooker and that was my biggest worry. Rewired it back as it was now - the wire just disappears into the wall with no extra plates so I think it must be a problem with the socket. It's all on it's own fuse so I'll leave that switched off overnight and see what can be done about the socket tomorrow. Many thanks!

Jeepers_Creepers

Nicely done, and nice move not being tempted to try the oven!

If the cable goes straight into the wall with no faceplate, then good chance it makes its way directly to the cooker switch.

MCB OFF, of course, and remove to have a look behind. Most likely a loose terminal screw.