Old cut-out piece of plasterboard screwed back in - how best to patch up?

Hi,
When we viewed the house that we moved into, we noticed a rectangle of cut out plasterboard. We asked about it and the owners said it was due to a leak from the central heating pipes (we can see an old stain just beneath) and the repair man cut out the rectangle, fixed the leak, then seems to have just screwed it back in with 2 (hopefully) plasterboard screws. They said it happened a year ago and they just hadn't got round to fixing it (they did have a 2 year old, so fair enough!).


I'd quite like to now sort it and repaint the area. In other holes around the house, I've generally just used Polyfilla. I thought I'd run it past this forum first though, as I'm dubious this is the right thing to do. It's in a fairly innocuous place up high (it's a hollow run of plasterboard that runs alongside the RSJ for the extension, with the central heating pipes presumably  going across it to the radiator on the other side of the extension - you can only see it when sat at the far end of our dining table or when entering from the patio doors), so I'm not too fussed about it being the "perfect" finish, but at the same time I don't really want to just dive in and end up with a big rectangular crack reopening sometime soon down the line!

It's roughly 50x30cm, you can see that they have completely cut through and lifted it out and if you prod the right hand side of it it slightly wobbles (I think that screw on the lower right isn't particularly secure). How would be best to go about this? I assume the first step would be to apply another screw(s) into suitable joists (obviously avoiding said pipe!) until it starts wobbling? Then how best to fill the gaps? Or do I need to get someone in and them to start from scratch?

Thanks as ever!
«13

Comments

  • Sandtree
    Sandtree Posts: 10,628 Forumite
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    With previous repairs, and I'm no expert, I've just polyfilla the gaps and screws however in my case have always been 8 screws as there are two batons attached to the wall/ceiling by a screw in each end and then the cut out with 2 screws in each baton... ours have been smaller than this so may consider a third in the middle.

    In the first instance I would remove the two screws and see what its actually being attached to as it seems minimal attachement points for such a size and the fact its unstable 
  • tacpot12
    tacpot12 Posts: 9,145 Forumite
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    This is my method now: https://youtu.be/L2xSDsfjvaE
    The comments I post are my personal opinion. While I try to check everything is correct before posting, I can and do make mistakes, so always try to check official information sources before relying on my posts.
  • Grenage
    Grenage Posts: 3,149 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    As above, remove the screws and see with what you have to work.
    If there's not much to screw into then you could just glue some thin wood to the back of the plasterboard, then put adhesive on the wood, angle it into the hole and slot it into place.  Use filler once dry.
    No point trying to use filler until it's stable.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,686 Forumite
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    As above check what under. If it was mine I would prefill the joint, add filler over the joint when it's gone off and tape the joints, go over with 2 or 3 coats and then sand with 120. 
  • Thanks all. Makes sense that I need to secure it first and yeah I was daft and hadn't clocked that if I just unscrew the 2 screws I can lift it off and look for the studs behind!

    @stuart45 - forgive me for being a beginner with plaster - this is that mesh tape right? I had thought about that - what I don't understand is that if I were to tape all over the joints then put 2-3 coats of filler over the tape, won't I end up with a rectangle on the wall where the filler is slightly above all the other plaster? Because it'll need to sit at least as proud as the tape? Maybe I'm missing something here :)
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,686 Forumite
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    I normally use paper tape. With a small patch like that I would go over the whole patch and taper the edges in. 
    This is an easy filler to use. Knauf 5kg Fill & Finish: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,835 Forumite
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    Tape the joint only if you are going to skim over the area with plaster. Else just use a filler in a cartridge and pump it in to the gap all the way round - A light misting of water will help with adhesion. Smooth off the filler with a suitable scraper and leave to dry. Sand down, touch up any gaps, and then paint.
    But as others have pointed out, check that the loose piece is well supported on all four sides.
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  • Thanks :) Must admit I've watched videos from both those 2 guys already and enjoy both. I think here I was just daft and thought maybe the approach is different as they've already screwed a chunk in. I didn't stop and think that I can remove and start from step 1 again :) Thanks all
  • twopenny
    twopenny Posts: 7,087 Forumite
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    I've watched the guy Tacpot posted and love his videos. He speaks in words even I can understand. Gives me confidence

    I can rise and shine - just not at the same time!

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