Central heating pump problem

Jeepers_Creepers

I can't see these issues being anything other than red herons (I know I know...)

It's most likely that a device is faulty, either a valve, or the boiler's PCB, or an external control. None of that should have happened because you had a leak or the pressure fell - such things happens to folk on a daily basis.

westsussexheating

Changing or fixing a central heating system can be a expensive and difficult process. It is likely to decrease the extent of problems that can develop over the lifespan of the system by carrying out a few simple defensive methods. This will not only reduce the risk of break downs, but also help in saving you a significant sum of money that would have been vital for repair-work.

If you consider that the central heating system is not as effective as was earlier the case, you may need to power-flush the complete system. This would contain the use of a special machine, which can eliminate and dislodge the compounds that have built up within. Water is pumped through at a high velocity, though with low pressure to prevent damage, until the system is fully clean. A strong magnet may be used in the power-flush process to help in eliminating metallic compounds such as iron oxide.

southcoastrgi

Can you post a pic of the valve they changed the head on 

Upzeecreek

southcoastrgi said:

Can you post a pic of the valve they changed the head on 

This is the valve...

Jeepers_Creepers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr-hf2XvbbM

This guy reckons they are prone to failing and keep the boiler (and pump) running.

You have THREE 'zones? AND a hot water cylinder? So 4 valves in total?

Hit them - in turn- with a lump of wood the next time the pump keeps running.

(Or just move the lever back and forth by hand and see if it 'clicks'.)

Upzeecreek

Jeepers_Creepers said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr-hf2XvbbM

This guy reckons they are prone to failing and keep the boiler (and pump) running.

You have THREE 'zones? AND a hot water cylinder? So 4 valves in total?

Hit them - in turn- with a lump of wood the next time the pump keeps running.

(Or just move the lever back and forth by hand and see if it 'clicks'.)

Just 3 zones in total.
Thanks for the advice. I think I've got to the stage where I may just whack them with a piece of wood!!  

Jeepers_Creepers

It might not work, but it'll feel good...

Tbh, one of these valves is the most likely candidate. You have a contract with BG?

The next time the pump runs on, go to each valve in turn and see what the lever on the side is doing. They should all be firmly parked against the 'auto' end. Are they? Or is one loose and can be move easily towards the manual end. If it can, that's an indication that the valve is 'open'. When open, it'll tell the pump and boiler to come on.

If your heating controls are definitely saying that these valves should NOT be on, then thump that valve with a lump of timber. Hit the brass valve part with the wood, and the plastic top motor part with the palm of your hand. Try moving the lever to the FAR manual end and release it.

Upzeecreek

Well after nearly 3 months of the pump  working faultlessly ( is shutting down when it should) ,it decided to stay on last night. 
I'm at a loss. Nothing has changed over the 3 months. All zone levers are firm when the pump is still running. The boiler is firing up for 30 secs or so periodically when a controls set to off! Aaaaarrrrgggg!!!! 

Jeepers_Creepers

Just because the valve is closed - lever tight at 'auto' end - does not mean the microswitch has opened to turn off the boiler and pump; the switch could be sticky.

Time to fetch the lump of wood.

Upzeecreek

I'll have the lump of wood at the ready..