Boiler central heating dial

quattros

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Not condensing? Wow - how old is it?!

In that case there's even less to gain by keeping the temp low. Priority one is to be comfy :-)

Not Quite Sure as it was here when we moved in and that’s been 10 years so would say over 10 but they started manufacturing the 105e in 2001 .

Jeepers_Creepers

quattros said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Not condensing? Wow - how old is it?!

In that case there's even less to gain by keeping the temp low. Priority one is to be comfy :-)

Not Quite Sure as it was here when we moved in and that’s been 10 years so would say over 10 but they started manufacturing the 105e in 2001 .

When you look at the pipes that exit from under the boiler, is there a white PLASTIC one there, 22mm in size?

Anyhoo, with any boiler, generally keep it running as cool as you can whilst still delivering the heat required - less stress on the system (although on really old boilers, having it too cool would mean the moisture would condense on the rustable surfaces, so not good! Doesn't apply to yours, tho')

EDIT: You are correct - it's a non-condensing combi.

https://www.baxi.co.uk/our-boilers/-/media/websites/baxiuk/files/discontinued-products/combi-boilers/baxi-combi/baxi_combi_80e_and_105e_user_guide.pdf?la=en&hash=40F8EE45F183052AB881C40E3CEBBD9F5A73E807

Page 6 of instructions:

3.0 Operating the Boiler

.3. In normal winter usage we recommend that the central heating temperature be set at maximum.

Hey, I got two things wrong in a single thread. I'm getting better :-) 

quattros

Jeepers_Creepers said:

quattros said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Not condensing? Wow - how old is it?!

In that case there's even less to gain by keeping the temp low. Priority one is to be comfy :-)

Not Quite Sure as it was here when we moved in and that’s been 10 years so would say over 10 but they started manufacturing the 105e in 2001 .

When you look at the pipes that exit from under the boiler, is there a white PLASTIC one there, 22mm in size?

Anyhoo, with any boiler, generally keep it running as cool as you can whilst still delivering the heat required - less stress on the system (although on really old boilers, having it too cool would mean the moisture would condense on the rustable surfaces, so not good! Doesn't apply to yours, tho')

EDIT: You are correct - it's a non-condensing combi.

https://www.baxi.co.uk/our-boilers/-/media/websites/baxiuk/files/discontinued-products/combi-boilers/baxi-combi/baxi_combi_80e_and_105e_user_guide.pdf?la=en&hash=40F8EE45F183052AB881C40E3CEBBD9F5A73E807

Page 6 of instructions:

3.0 Operating the Boiler

.3. In normal winter usage we recommend that the central heating temperature be set at maximum.

Hey, I got two things wrong in a single thread. I'm getting better :-) 

Hi no doesn’t have the plastic white pipe coming out of the boiler, I know what you mean as Condensing boilers have them, 

Hey no worries cheers for your help , Yep that’s the Boiler , Interesting so does say to turn the CH to Maximum during Winter , We never did this thinking it would use a lot of energy.  

fezster

Worth having a read on Delta T of radiator, which dictates it's output wattage:

https://www.buildingservicesindex.co.uk/entry/136540/AEL-Heating-Solutions-Ltd/How-to-calculate-the-delta-T-for-a-radiator/

Non-condensing boilers work on a flow/return of 11 degrees and condensing at 20 degrees. This means non-condensing boilers result in more energy output for the same radiators compared to condensing, if the flow temperature remains the same and the system is correctly balanced.

Jeepers_Creepers

No prob Quattros; yer mate was right, and then I spent three pages trying to prove him wrong :-)