Insulating conservatory roof

Hi all I am looking at insulating my conservatory roof as it’s just way too cold and also unbearable in the summer too,
I have seen a few people do it , So what I currently have is clear glazed roof which I will have to cover somehow so the insulation cannot be seen any thoughts on this ?
and I have seen people use either the insulation quilt or the insulating foam like Celotex or equivalent, what are your thoughts on these ?
last question I was thinking of plasterboarding then plaster over the top for ease but also seen people cladding them too?

thanks in advance.

Comments

  • Two elements to this task - one is how to finish the outside, and the other is how to insulate the interior. You want to DIY this?

    Your clear glazed roof - is this glass or translucent polycarbonate?

    Anyhoo, at its simplest, this task can be done by bonding 1" (or slightly thicker if you want) Celotex-type rigid insulation sheet to the aluminium rafters inside your roof. Cut the sheets accurately using a craft knife, and bevel/mitre these cuts so's they mate snugly with adjacent sheets. Attach using a strong PU adhesive such as Everbuild StixAll. Fill any gaps using spray foam - carefully - tho' you can trim off the excess after its set. Make sure you also seal around the wallplate - ie the perimeter above the windows.

    If your roof is a polycarbonate type, then it'll likely be slightly draughty anyway, and that's fine as it'll keep the gap above the Celotex ventilated but the room should now be draught-free and cosy.

    Finish off the inside using lightweight PVC cladding or similar which you should be able to bond straight on to the Celotex - it's all lightweight stuff. If you'd rather paint it like a 'normal' ceiling, then it'll really need a decent layer of thick lining paper first, even perhaps something like Wallrock which is a round 3mm thick. That's as simple as this job gets.

    If you want to plasterboard it, you really need to start by building a complete new timber frame first, as p'board is heavy and needs to be secured well.

    Similarly, if you prefer the look of a 'flat' ceiling rather than vaulted, then you'll also need to add joists spanning the walls, either at actual 'ceiling' height, or else slightly further up so you have a foot or so of sloping ceiling perimeter first - whichever you prefer. Obviously a lot more work.

    Then comes the outside. If it's translucent, then the shiny silver foil finish of the Celotex below won't look much different, so you could leave it if you wanted to - that's as simple as it gets! Or, you could paint it using a suitable product such as Bedec Barn paint, say in slate grey or anthracite. It shouldn't look dissimilar to a GRP or EPDM roof. That's as simple as it gets...

    For a 'proper' roof covering, you now have a multitude of choices, including tile-shaped lightweight plastic cladding. You'd need to look in to the individual requirements for mounting these - some will need additional rafters and stuff.

    So, as its most basic, you can do this job for little cost - a few £undred - and retaining the existing connie roof structure and glazing - a couple of sheets of Celotex isn't going to bring it all down.




  • quattros
    quattros Posts: 118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Two elements to this task - one is how to finish the outside, and the other is how to insulate the interior. You want to DIY this?

    Your clear glazed roof - is this glass or translucent polycarbonate?

    Anyhoo, at its simplest, this task can be done by bonding 1" (or slightly thicker if you want) Celotex-type rigid insulation sheet to the aluminium rafters inside your roof. Cut the sheets accurately using a craft knife, and bevel/mitre these cuts so's they mate snugly with adjacent sheets. Attach using a strong PU adhesive such as Everbuild StixAll. Fill any gaps using spray foam - carefully - tho' you can trim off the excess after its set. Make sure you also seal around the wallplate - ie the perimeter above the windows.

    If your roof is a polycarbonate type, then it'll likely be slightly draughty anyway, and that's fine as it'll keep the gap above the Celotex ventilated but the room should now be draught-free and cosy.

    Finish off the inside using lightweight PVC cladding or similar which you should be able to bond straight on to the Celotex - it's all lightweight stuff. If you'd rather paint it like a 'normal' ceiling, then it'll really need a decent layer of thick lining paper first, even perhaps something like Wallrock which is a round 3mm thick. That's as simple as this job gets.

    If you want to plasterboard it, you really need to start by building a complete new timber frame first, as p'board is heavy and needs to be secured well.

    Similarly, if you prefer the look of a 'flat' ceiling rather than vaulted, then you'll also need to add joists spanning the walls, either at actual 'ceiling' height, or else slightly further up so you have a foot or so of sloping ceiling perimeter first - whichever you prefer. Obviously a lot more work.

    Then comes the outside. If it's translucent, then the shiny silver foil finish of the Celotex below won't look much different, so you could leave it if you wanted to - that's as simple as it gets! Or, you could paint it using a suitable product such as Bedec Barn paint, say in slate grey or anthracite. It shouldn't look dissimilar to a GRP or EPDM roof. That's as simple as it gets...

    For a 'proper' roof covering, you now have a multitude of choices, including tile-shaped lightweight plastic cladding. You'd need to look in to the individual requirements for mounting these - some will need additional rafters and stuff.

    So, as its most basic, you can do this job for little cost - a few £undred - and retaining the existing connie roof structure and glazing - a couple of sheets of Celotex isn't going to bring it all down.




    Thankyou for you reply , Answer to you question the roof is clear Glass glazed ,  reading a bit into just now people say not to use the celotex type of insulation I think due to the air gaps that are required, but think that apples to polycarbonate roofs more , 
    reading about the quilted insulation looks a good option too , bit more expensive though 
    companies are charging about 2.5k  to 3k to do this so looking at DIY option.
  • At least - since it's all aluminium and glass - any condensation won't cause rot!

    With poly roofs, there's usually small gaps along the bottom and top ridges, enough to keep it trickle vented. Glass roofs, however, will usually be of a much higher standard, so likely pretty draughtproof.

    (Mind you, with glass being a lot heavier, the ali rafters should be a lot stronger too.)






  • quattros
    quattros Posts: 118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    At least - since it's all aluminium and glass - any condensation won't cause rot!

    With poly roofs, there's usually small gaps along the bottom and top ridges, enough to keep it trickle vented. Glass roofs, however, will usually be of a much higher standard, so likely pretty draughtproof.

    (Mind you, with glass being a lot heavier, the ali rafters should be a lot stronger too.)






    Ideally i would like to leave the glass in place and use something on the glass on the inside and then insulate then either clad or plasterboard.
  • Excellent description by Jeepers, I researched on You Tube and did the whole job for less than £250 (12m2)
    I used a couple of rolls of Super quilt onto to wood laths affixed to the upvc clad aluminium struts ( this allows an air gap) finished off with upvc 'planking' To hide from the outside I used stick on frosted film. Really pleased with the results and of course price as I had been qouted £2600.
  • Just about everything is on YouTube :-)
  • quattros
    quattros Posts: 118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Yeah I seen a few DIY vids on YouTube quite a few ways of doing it , I am thinking using the batten then insulation quilt and then more battens to secure either the plasterboard or cladding.

    Do you think plaster board be ok in sense of condensation on the roof ?
  • quattros
    quattros Posts: 118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Excellent description by Jeepers, I researched on You Tube and did the whole job for less than £250 (12m2)
    I used a couple of rolls of Super quilt onto to wood laths affixed to the upvc clad aluminium struts ( this allows an air gap) finished off with upvc 'planking' To hide from the outside I used stick on frosted film. Really pleased with the results and of course price as I had been qouted £2600.
    I just measured mine roughly 19m2  i hope i should be able to do the work under £500 
    I was looking at the frosted film or even the spray , How is it holding up in the Sun and winter film staying put?
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