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Worrying Homebuyer's report results

Hello All,
I've received the results of my homebuyer report with valuation and despite it could be worse, I'm afraid that the results are bad, mainly due to the fact that the property was build using a non traditional construction, being timber framed construction. First question, I was already told that these properties are higher risk for lenders, therefore it will be harder to get a mortgage (ironically it was already accepted by the lender before the survey took place), but may main question is: how easy I will be able to sell the property after? My goal was to refurbish the property and potentially sell it in 2y time. It's a 3 bed terraced house that has plenty of potential, has it has 110 sqm.
Below the main results:
Windows (rated 3) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 3 due to the absence of toughened glass to full length glazing panels. The windows have been replaced incorporating uPVC double glazed windows, to which no significant defects were noted. Given their age it is unlikely that there would have been a requirement for the replacement double glazed units to conform with FENSA regulations. The full length glazing to the front and rear displays visible British Standard Markings were apparent suggesting that it is not toughened or laminated. This glazing should be replaced, see section J3. Any glazing fitted internally below 800mm above ground level should be fitted with safety glass. All safety glazing should be etched as such. For further details concerning safety glazing you should consult Building Regulations Approved Document N (Glazing – safety relating to opening, impact and cleaning). The uPVC replacement windows are of some age, seals are beginning to detach and future replacement should be anticipated in the short term. Windows and openings open square to the eye with no signs of any significant movement or distortion noted. You should ensure that you are provided with a full set of window keys on occupation. We observed substantial mould to all window seals, which is the result of condensation. Condensation can be alleviated through a combination of heating, ventilation and insulation.
Conservatory (rated 3) - There is a timber brick mounted conservatory which is constructed beneath a polycarbonate roof structure to the rear of the property. The conservatory is currently in a particularly poor state of repair and it may be more economic to replace the construction. This one I noticed that it wasn't in the best shape, but thought that could be repaired. Nevertheless, if a new is more economic I'm looking at how much and do I need to fix it now, or I can fix it whenever I prefer? I assumed between 2.5k to 3.5k.
Woodwork (rated 3) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 3 due to non-compliant banisters. Other joinery includes timber skirtings, architraves, door frames, linings and doors. Doors and openings open square to the eye with no signs of any significant movement or distortion noted. Some general marking and bruising is apparent consistent with normal wear and tear and some minor repairs will need to be carried out prior to redecoration. The property has a timber staircase which is carpeted on the upper surface and enclosed beneath. Treads and risers appear to be firm and level and within normal tolerances, with no signs of any significant spring or undulation noted. The gaps in the banisters are too large and you will need to arrange for modifications to be carried out prior to taking occupation. Banisters and balustrading appear to be complete with no signs of any defect noted. The gaps between spindles are 110mm (opposite to 100mm) which will not comply with current Building Regulation standards. 
Roof coverings (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 due to the need for remedial work. The main pitched roof slopes are covered in interlocking profiled cement tiles. The roof edge is of cement construction. The under cloak appears to be of fibre cement construction. We are pleased to report the roof coverings appear to be complete with no signs of any slipped, missing or damaged tiles noted. Please note undercloak material to the verge may be asbestos containing materials, depending on their age. Care should be taken with future maintenance. See ‘Local environment’ of this report. The roofline appears to be level and within normal tolerances with no signs of any significant deflection or undulation noted, indicating that the roof structure is adequate for the current roof covering. See Section F1 regarding the roof structure. Ventilation is a requirement under current regulations and this is achieved via ridge vents., There is moss growth present on the roof slopes. Excessive moss growth should be cleaned off as soon as possible. Moss growth impedes the run-off of rainwater and leads to gutter blockage and can cause water penetration which may lead to rot or other defects in surrounding timbers. The ridge tiles appear firmly fixed in position. The edge of the roof (verge) is finished in cement mortar and is cracked in places and will need to be repointed. You should be mindful of the presence of asbestos verge tiles when completing future maintenance.
Rain water pipes & gutters (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 due to seepage. The rainwater goods are formed in uPVC and appear to be reasonably dated. Please note we cannot comment on the state and condition of underground drainage runs where downpipes run to sealed gulleys. Alignment is poor in places and some seepage was evident of the joints suggesting that minor adjustments will be required. Please note it was not raining heavily during the course of the inspection so we cannot confirm that rainwater goods are watertight or suitably aligned. It is recommended that you inspect rainwater goods during a period of heavy rain in order to establish their effectiveness. A suitable number of support brackets appear to have been provided at regular intervals. You should ensure that gutters are seasonally unblocked of moss and other debris.
Main walls (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 due to slipped and missing hung tiles. The property is of non-traditional timber framed construction. The external walls to which measure 250mm so the ground floor is 180mm to the first floor. Provided the property was constructed in an approved manner, in accordance with relevant codes, it should be structurally satisfactory. In general, there were no signs of any significant structural defects noted to the main walls at the time of inspection. Walls and openings appear square to the eye with no signs of any significant movement or distortion noted. We are pleased to report we saw no evidence of any significant cracks or bulges to indicate any failure or uneven loading with the foundations or structure of the subject property at this time. Mortar joints to the brickwork were found to be in an overall serviceable condition with no requirement for repointing attention. Whilst not visible, given the age of the property the damp-proof course is likely to be of slate or bitumen. It is recommended this is positioned approximately 150mm above ground level although as the damp-proof course was not visible, we are unable to confirm if this is achieved. The upper parts to the external walls have been covered in hung cement tiles, a number of which have slipped or are absent and we observed one cracked tile to the rear elevation. Such cladding may obscure structural defects and the existence of such defects can only be established by removing the tiles which is beyond the scope of this survey and therefore the risk of defects existing much be accepted. Given that the property is timber framed it is not appropriate to install remedial insulation as this can affect the structural integrity of the timber frame. The timber frame provides support above door and window openings but is concealed within the construction and as a result is not visible for inspection.
Roof structure (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 for the reasons set out below. The main roof is formed in pre-fabricated gang-nail trusses to which no significant defects were noted. There are no anchor straps provided to the gable ends and party walls to provide additional strength. We are pleased to report we saw no signs of any timber decay to roof timbers that were visible at this time including any wet rot, dry rot or wood-boring insect infestation. Whilst there was no evidence of frass (powdered wood) to indicate ongoing wood boring beetle activity, roof voids are intrinsically dusty places and it is possible that the evidence may be concealed. Secondary weathering consists of a bitumen underfelt material that provides secondary weathering from wind driven rain and snow. These elements appear to be complete, where visible, with no signs of any significant tears, condensation damage or other defect noted. Ventilation within the roof void appears to be adequate. Insulation falls short of current standards. We do endorse these standards and encourage you to upgrade insulation, where practicable and possible on occupation. This should include the upper surface of the trap hatch and eaves should be kept free to provide a degree of ventilation to the roof void. The party wall is constructed in plasterboard and is effective in providing security between the subject and adjacent dwelling. We were unable to confirm the specification of the plasterboard and we recommend that you engage the services of a recommended roofing contractor to confirm that its composition is such that it provides sufficient fire separation in line with current Building Regulations. There are no cold water storage tanks present within the roof void. There are likely to be cables buried beneath the insulation. The cables should be laid over the top of the insulation material in order that they do not overheat. How much do you think this may cost?
Ceilings (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 due to our observation of damp staining to the kitchen ceiling. The ceilings are formed in plasterboard and finished in textured paint. You should be aware that textured ceiling coatings such as Artex can contain an element of asbestos which is not generally considered to be a risk to health and safety. The removal process (through scraping) disturbs the material and causes fibre release. Up until 2006, textured coatings could only be removed by licensed contractors, but this is no longer the case. That said, it is always best to use a specialist contractor when removing asbestos as they use methods which prevent fibre release. Artex containing asbestos was not used after 1984 and consequently you may wish to enquire as to the age of certain ceiling finishes within the property. Minor irregularities and imperfections are present but these are not unusual for this type and age of property. Cosmetic works upon redecoration will be required. Damp staining was noted to the kitchen ceiling, adjacent to the soil and vent stack conduit suggesting defective waste pipe connections above, and minor repairs to the ceiling will be necessary prior to redecoration once the leak has been rectified. Where decorative coving is fitted within the property, this appeared to be complete with no signs of any significant defect noted. Please note that coving can conceal a degree of settlement cracking. Please note we observed lining paper to the ceilings within the hallway which is integral to the garage. This has been particularly badly applied and is beginning to detach from its subsurface. Anyone can share an estimation for repairing the kitchen ceiling? This seems to be a small spot, but I guess one can only tell after removing the bathroom flooring.
Built in fittings (e.g. built-in kitchen and other fittings, not including appliances) (rated 2) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 2 due to its dated nature. Please note a detailed test on kitchen fittings is outside the scope of this report. Whilst the property was unoccupied, it is difficult to confirm the condition of concealed surfaces within the kitchen units and the risk of concealed defects exists. Most of the distribution and waste pipework is concealed behind the units and leaking pipework or other defects may not be readily apparent. The kitchen is provided with a range of basic but relatively modern units which appeared serviceable although individual units were not inspected in detail. Some wear and tear was apparent and you will no doubt wish to arrange to seek quotations for their replacement prior to legal commitment to purchase. Improvement to the mastic seal should be applied along the back edges of the kitchen worktops to prevent water penetration behind the units. You should ideally provide mechanical extract ventilation to the kitchen which is directed to an external wall to reduce the possibility of condensation problems occurring. There is a gas oven within the property and if this is to be retained you should confirm with your legal adviser whether this has any gas safety certification. See Section G2 of this report.
Bathroom fittings (rated 2) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 2 due to the need to incorporate ventilation to both the bathroom and cloakroom. Please note a detailed test on bathroom installations and fittings is outside the scope of this report. Sanitary fittings are dated and worn although apparently serviceable. You will no doubt wish to consider replacing the bathroom fittings as part of the overall improvement of the property. The flexible sealant around the sanitary ware should be replaced and a precautionary inspection of the enclosed area beneath the sanitary fittings is recommended. You should arrange for the provision of extract ventilation in accordance with current regulations to reduce condensation. Most of the distribution and waste pipework is concealed beneath or behind sanitary ware items and whilst there were no obvious signs of leaks, the risk of hidden defects exists. And as stated previously, our observation of damp staining to the kitchen ceiling in the vicinity of the conduit to the soil and waste pipe would suggest defective pipework above which should be investigated prior to redecoration. I was expecting to refurbish the bathroom completely, but wasn't expecting to have to repair the kitchen ceiling.
Others (rated 2) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 2 due to the need to improve smoke detection from within the property. We observed two dated battery operated smoke detectors within the property. Given that the property is timber framed, a more extensive mains wired installation should be installed and indeed may be a requirement for your insurers. May cost 500 pounds?
Limitations to inspection also rated 3 but I'll need to replace the fuse box - a test on the installation is outside the scope of this report and we have not seen documentary evidence confirming a recent electrical test and the dated fuse box should be replaced with a modern RCD protected consumer unit. 500 pounds more?
Again, my main concern is regarding the fact that this is non-traditional construction which may limit my ability to sell the property in the future. The house is currently valued at 228k, nevertheless, I'll need to bring specialist to advise in work needed to carry on, there's a bit of non compliant items, from woodwork to the windows, so I'll definitely need to renegotiate the price. My original idea was to spend around 20k more and sell around 270k, but I'm wondering if this can be the case as the property has a non-standard construction. Perhaps this alone, regardless of improvements made to the house will devalue the house and I'll never recover my investment...
Please share your knowledge
Thanks for your advice.
«13

Comments

  • Completely agree, this is awful, please adjust it to include paragraphs and punctuation and edit to main points.
  • anselld
    anselld Posts: 8,738 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Timber frame construction is not uncommon and should not affect price or mortgage ability.  The rest is explained in detail in the report.  If you don't understand the report you should not really be undertaking a refurbishment project.
  • HS10
    HS10 Posts: 12 Forumite
    10 Posts Name Dropper
    Honestly, you need some punctuation and some paragraphs. It’s almost impossible to read as such a large wall of text. 
    Catsacor said:
    Completely agree, this is awful, please adjust it to include paragraphs and punctuation and edit to main points.
    You guy's are correct! I can't edit the post, there's no edit button, but I'll edit when possible.

  • HS10
    HS10 Posts: 12 Forumite
    10 Posts Name Dropper
    Thanks for your reply @AdrianC, very helpful.
    My goal was to refurbish the property and potentially sell it in 2y time.
    Don't. It's a terrible idea. You will lose money.

    I'm sorry to be blunt, but if you're asking questions like these, then you clearly don't understand enough about houses to be profitable on a renovation project.
    Why will I lose money? Please be blunt, you're helping me avoiding doing a mistake. You're correct, I don't understand enough on properties, I'm trying to learn now. You say that I may lose money is it due the fact I don't know enough about houses or it's just because typically it's hard to be profitable in properties such as this?  Or both?
    The windows aren't in the first flush of youth. I'm guessing this is not a surprise.
    Yes, I saw that the seals would need to be replaced as they had mould in quite a few. But had no idea on the safety glass, to be honest it is hard to understand if I needed to make the changes or not to be compliant and toughened the windows.
    Conservatory (rated 3) - I assumed between 2.5k to 3.5k.
    So no real surprises, just optimism born of inexperience.
    Yep, but this is still something I will do way later, as there's a lot of stuff to do before and money doesn't stretch.
    Woodwork (rated 3) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 3 due to non-compliant banisters.
    Meh. They don't have to be compliant...
    The gaps in the banisters are too large and you will need to arrange for modifications to be carried out prior to taking occupation.
    No, you don't. If you were building the stairs now, they'd need to comply. But you aren't.
    Glad to hear that, as the report gives the impression I need to be compliant before moving in. And yes, 10 mm of...
    Main walls (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 due to slipped and missing hung tiles.
    Which you would have noticed...
    I did, not worried with it. Somehow all the houses of the same construction type were missing tiles in the same area beneath the window.
    Ceilings (rated 2) - Please note that this element is rated condition rating 2 due to our observation of damp staining to the kitchen ceiling.
    But no suggestion of ongoing?
    Just what I've pasted in the full post, check where it comes from bathroom and fix it. My concern here is, if this is a timber frame can the damp get into the frame and how can I check it?
    Built in fittings (e.g. built-in kitchen and other fittings, not including appliances) (rated 2)
    "The kitchen's old". You knew this.
    Yep, was planning to spend 5 to 6k in the kitchen (again at a later stage). I was also going to make it open plan, together with the living room, but the surveyor wrote me in the email saying that I can't do it since this is a timber frame. I think the living room has a load bearing wall, which I originally thought could be removed, but listening to the surveyor I can't. But I thought that the kitchen wall wasn't a load bearing (previous owners created a sort of a storage place by moving part of the wall into the dinning area) and I could at least have an open kitchen. Like a L shape between kitchen, dinning and living room, it seems I can't. I was planning on spending 5 to 6k here, was I far off?
    Bathroom fittings (rated 2) - Please note this element is rated condition rating 2 due to the need to incorporate ventilation to both the bathroom and cloakroom. Please note a detailed test on bathroom installations and fittings is outside the scope of this report. Sanitary fittings are dated and worn although apparently serviceable. You will no doubt wish to consider replacing the bathroom fittings as part of the overall improvement of the property.
    Maybe you don't. If you do, then a bit of plasterboard and a skim.
    I don't, but I will learn. Nevertheless, the bathroom needs to be completely replaced and I was counting on spending 4.5k max here.
    Limitations to inspection also rated 3 but I'll need to replace the fuse box - a test on the installation is outside the scope of this report and we have not seen documentary evidence confirming a recent electrical test and the dated fuse box should be replaced with a modern RCD protected consumer unit. 500 pounds more?
    Just rewire the place and update it all.
    How much do you think this will cost? Around 3k no? I wasn't planning on rewiring completely on my budget.
    Again, my main concern is regarding the fact that this is non-traditional construction which may limit my ability to sell the property in the future. The house is currently valued at 228k, nevertheless, I'll need to bring specialist to advise in work needed to carry on, there's a bit of non compliant items, from woodwork to the windows, so I'll definitely need to renegotiate the price. My original idea was to spend around 20k more and sell around 270k, but I'm wondering if this can be the case as the property has a non-standard construction. Perhaps this alone, regardless of improvements made to the house will devalue the house and I'll never recover my investment...
    If it's so easy to make a 100% return on investment, £20k profit, then why hasn't anybody in the trade already snapped it up? Where are you getting your "£20k spent" from?
    Maybe I am being naive, happy to explain. I had a few friends and colleagues doing similar and they got the 100% return on investment. It was in cheaper properties, bought them around 180k, spent 20k (a bit less) and sold for 222k 2y after. Perhaps in my case, it will be harder as they had quite a good deal buying the 180k house.
    Honestly, I am happy to not losing money. Why I'm thinking of a 260 to 270k sale? Well from seeing houses being sold at 230 and 250k, that are smaller, sometimes less 20sqm, and I saw that the sqm in this area is around 2.5 to 2.7k, therefore I made an extrapolation.
    My 20k comes from:
    - new bathroom 4.5k
    - open plan 6k
    - new kitchen 5k
    - flooring and painting - 2k (I'll do the flooring and the painting myself)
    - 3k for unforeseen costs or improper estimations + windows seals replacement. I want to do the windows seals replacement myself, but I'll need to learn and I'm not talking about calking.

    Damm, I can't post links yet. Originally I wanted to offer around 215k to compensate for the extra work needed, but unfortunately they had other buyers offering around 225 to 227k.
    Thank you for your help.
  • p00hsticks
    p00hsticks Posts: 14,964 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 24 December 2020 at 1:33PM
    HS10 said:
    You guy's are correct! I can't edit the post, there's no edit button, but I'll edit when possible.
    You should see a 'cogwheel' settings button on the right hand  side of the blue title bar at the top of your post. If you click on it,  it will give you an option to edit. If you can't see the cogwheel try hovering your mouse over that area and the options may appear anyhow.
  • Slithery
    Slithery Posts: 6,046 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    HS10 said:
    Maybe I am being naive, happy to explain. I had a few friends and colleagues doing similar and they got the 100% return on investment. It was in cheaper properties, bought them around 180k, spent 20k (a bit less) and sold for 222k 2y after. Perhaps in my case, it will be harder as they had quite a good deal buying the 180k house.
    When was this? How much of that rise in value can be attributed to the work they did and not just the inflation in prices at the time? They may have made more profit by simply leaving the property alone and not doing any work...
  • anselld said:
     If you don't understand the report you should not really be undertaking a refurbishment project.
    Totally agree.
    A project like this is suitable for someone who understands buildings and property. You've got a very detailed report. If it does not make sense to you, buy  a proprty that's in good condition.
  • AdrianC
    AdrianC Posts: 42,189 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    HS10 said:
    Why will I lose money? Please be blunt, you're helping me avoiding doing a mistake. You're correct, I don't understand enough on properties, I'm trying to learn now. You say that I may lose money is it due the fact I don't know enough about houses or it's just because typically it's hard to be profitable in properties such as this?  Or both?

    Damm, I can't post links yet. Originally I wanted to offer around 215k to compensate for the extra work needed, but unfortunately they had other buyers offering around 225 to 227k.
    Why? Because of all the usuals... Too much expenditure, not enough return...

    The triple whammy:
    Bought too high.
    Spent too much.
    Didn't sell for enough.

    Ultimately, you paid more than anybody else wanted to - and you don't really understand what needs to be spent...
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