Possible/cost to move radiator plumbing?

AskAsk

HarryDavies01 said:

Can you not run the pipework within the ceiling void then drop down the wall you want the radiator on. You can then either have exposed pipework down the wall or chase the wall to hide the pipework

if the pipes leak in the future, it will cause a lot of damage to the ceiling and walls.

SaverRate

AskAsk said:

HarryDavies01 said:

Can you not run the pipework within the ceiling void then drop down the wall you want the radiator on. You can then either have exposed pipework down the wall or chase the wall to hide the pipework

if the pipes leak in the future, it will cause a lot of damage to the ceiling and walls.

Isn't most peoples CH pipework ran within the ceiling/floor void? With the wall chase ensure the pipework is a continuous run or use copper and solder the pipework (Ensuring is wrapped obviously)

AskAsk

HarryDavies01 said:

AskAsk said:

HarryDavies01 said:

Can you not run the pipework within the ceiling void then drop down the wall you want the radiator on. You can then either have exposed pipework down the wall or chase the wall to hide the pipework

if the pipes leak in the future, it will cause a lot of damage to the ceiling and walls.

Isn't most peoples CH pipework ran within the ceiling/floor void? With the wall chase ensure the pipework is a continuous run or use copper and solder the pipework (Ensuring is wrapped obviously)

i guess you are right, but hiding the pipes inside walls is a bit iffy.  i do know that people do this, but i wouldn't be a fan of it.

scottishblondie

Does the pipework actually originate in the boarded up chimney?  I'd certainly look at moving a radiator closer to the source of the pipes.  Maybe choose a tall/"designer" type radiator to take up less horizontal space if necessary.  That looks like a very tiny radiator for a living room anyway.

Jeepers_Creepers

That looks like a low-profile rad due to the low cill - 400 or 500mm high? For the same heat output you can go for a narrower/taller rad to take up less wall width or even, as said before, a tall 'column' rad - make it an attractive feature rather than just a necessity.  

 Also as said before, the new rad can go on any wall, wherever it looks best or is less obtrusive. 

Finally, a rad of that output can easily be supplied by 10mm pipe - ideally annealed copper but plastic will do too (I have recently replaced a single conventional rad with two column rads - one 6m away on the other side of the room - using 10mm plastic pipe). Copper pipe will have a slightly larger internal bore. Both can be hidden behind routed skirting boards as AskAsk says, or channeled the concrete; bury 15mm plastic pipe as trunking and run the 10mm inside it = fully protected against corrosion and movement.