Damp found in Homebuyers Survey

gobeye

As an aside if you want someone truly independent and  are in Lancashire then I've used David Aldred a couple of times: https://www.aldredltd.com/

He may cover Manchester.

Pretty sure he used to post on MSE.

youth_leader

Good advice from FreeBear.  We paid a lot of money to convert our 1847 station waiting rooms into a self catering, and had the walls replastered.  Years later the damp came through and unbelievably they'd used gypsum, pink and crumbly.  Wish I'd watched them now, buyer wanted a ridiculous £10K off for it.

janoid19

FreeBear said:

janoid19 said: They recommend 'removing skirting boards in the affected area. Plaster affected by moisture should be removed up to a line not less than 300mm above the detectable lines of dampness (approximately 1m from the floor) and replaster leaving a bridging gap'

Did he give any recommendations as to the type of plaster ?

They usually say something along the lines of "waterproof render & plaster). What they don't tell you is that it only masks the problem for a few years, and then damp pops up around the patched areas.

IF the plaster does need to come off, use a pure lime plaster (no cement, no gypsum) which is much more tolerant of damp and more in keeping with the age & construction of the property. Gypsum plasters (the pink stuff like Thistle Multifinish) are water soluble and will turn to mush if subjected to damp. Lime plaster does not suffer from this problem..

Yes he did make a comment about the plaster-

1. the plaster should be a renovating plaster which incorporates a salt inhibitor and water retardant which will prevent the passage of moisture and salts. Alternatively a sand cement render can be used. It is essential to get the sand and cement ratios correct if this method is used.

Thanks for the tip. 

janoid19

Unicorn_cottage said:

How old is property?

It was built in 1939. It's a ex council house.

youth_leader

It's essential the walls can breathe.  Our house was solid sandstone, it sucked up the water in the winter, and it evaporated in the summer.  Important to get people who understand heritage houses. 

janoid19

youth_leader said:

It's essential the walls can breathe.  Our house was solid sandstone, it sucked up the water in the winter, and it evaporated in the summer.  Important to get people who understand heritage houses. 

Yes when it comes to getting it done, I will make sure to find someone who understands what needs doing. Thanks for your help 

FreeBear

janoid19 said:

Unicorn_cottage said:

How old is property?

It was built in 1939. It's a ex council house.

Post war. More modern building practices had been adopted for quite a while before then. Stuff like cavity walls and damp proof courses/membranes were in common use. But... Some places were still being built to older methods.

janoid19 said:

FreeBear said:

janoid19 said: They recommend 'removing skirting boards in the affected area. Plaster affected by moisture should be removed up to a line not less than 300mm above the detectable lines of dampness (approximately 1m from the floor) and replaster leaving a bridging gap'

Did he give any recommendations as to the type of plaster ?

They usually say something along the lines of "waterproof render & plaster). What they don't tell you is that it only masks the problem for a few years, and then damp pops up around the patched areas.

IF the plaster does need to come off, use a pure lime plaster (no cement, no gypsum) which is much more tolerant of damp and more in keeping with the age & construction of the property. Gypsum plasters (the pink stuff like Thistle Multifinish) are water soluble and will turn to mush if subjected to damp. Lime plaster does not suffer from this problem..

Yes he did make a comment about the plaster-

1. the plaster should be a renovating plaster which incorporates a salt inhibitor and water retardant which will prevent the passage of moisture and salts. Alternatively a sand cement render can be used. It is essential to get the sand and cement ratios correct if this method is used.

Thanks for the tip. 

Oh dear.... Slap a waterproof band aid and hide the problem for a few years....

The only part of that quote I would concur with in the slightest is "It is essential to get the sand and cement ratios correct" - Yup. Zero cement to three parts sand. Add one part lime plus some fibres.

Avoid any of those renovating plasters - Most of them contain cement and are no better than gypsum or cement renders.

NameUnavailable

If the homebuyers survey is damp, put it on top of a radiator for a couple of hours and it'll probably dry out OK.