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Re-wire and Fitting Central Heating.
Comments
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yes we had all that done to this place when we bought it 30 yrs ago. its only a two up two down, and we kept the place as it was originally, just updated the decor. + new windows, central heating installed, wiring etc........ did what we could ourselves with help from family + friends. we lived in a mobile home while it was being done. then moved in and sold the mobile home to pay off some of the debts.0
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On a solid brick wall, I drill a series of holes around the edge, then chisel out the waste. If one is doing lots (like an electrician might), you can get an attachment for an SDS drill to cut neat holes. On plasterboard, a knife or pad saw is sufficient, and then the back box clips in to place. A lath & plaster wall is a bit more challenging because as soon as the laths are cut, the strength & integrity of the wall is compromised.danrv said: Just wondering how you would install flush mounted sockets.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
If you're putting in new heating and electrics, run CCTV, network, alarm, phone and twin satellite cable as you go. Find a space as a "control room" (understairs shelf) and bring everything back there so you can put your modem, TV/Sat distribution, alarm and CCTV DVR in one place. Delete any of those options you don't wish to install but the cable is so cheap, you might as well put it in whilst the floor is up.
Signature on holiday for two weeks1 -
Thanks. The internal walls are concrete block but not sure about the inside layer of the external walls. They’re cavity insulated.FreeBear said:
On a solid brick wall, I drill a series of holes around the edge, then chisel out the waste. If one is doing lots (like an electrician might), you can get an attachment for an SDS drill to cut neat holes. On plasterboard, a knife or pad saw is sufficient, and then the back box clips in to place. A lath & plaster wall is a bit more challenging because as soon as the laths are cut, the strength & integrity of the wall is compromised.danrv said: Just wondering how you would install flush mounted sockets.
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Hi Bloke and Dan.
Yes, absolutely, get both done at the same time - you'd be nuts not to. Your CH will, in itself, needs some wiring, but other than that they are fairly separate since rads usually have their pipes coming up from the floor, whereas cables are buried in walls. BOTH, tho', will almost certainly require floorboards lifting, tho' there's a chance one or other trade will prefer dropping them down from the ceiling.
What I would do is first get personal recommendations from folk you know in the area who has used one of these two trades. You really cannot beat this.
Next step is to call them up, explain what you are after but also tell them you need the wiring/plumbing done too - do they know of a good sparky/plumber they often work with?. Seriously, you cannot beat that either. (We've just had an extension built and the main 'wet' builder recommended the roofer and also the sparky as folk he often works with and rated highly. They were all brilliant, and clearly didn't want to let their trade 'partners' down; they'd give priority to the job they shared over ones they did individually.)
Think through beforehand what it is you want - how many sockets and light fittings, etc, and where located. Mutton's idea is good too - consider what else might be attractive (Cat cables etc) to either potential buyers or to yourself. Try and make a plan for each room - where lights will go, switches, sockets etc. Then write down what work you actually want quoting for; if you don't say "All chases/ box surrounds to be filled and sanded ready for painting" then don't weep if this isn't included when the job is done.
Note how well each tradespeep listens to you, and also listen well to them - are they interested in this job, do they want to leave you satisfied, do they emphasise customer service, do they state they will stick to dates/schedules, etc. Get a gut feeling as to who will do the most reliable job.1 -
Mutton_Geoff said: run CCTV, network, alarm, phone and twin satellite cable as you go.If you are going the whole hog and wiring up for modern tech.... Include a neutral feed to the back of each light switch - If you get the desire to fit smart switches, most of them require both a live & neutral.Has anyone said skirting boards will need to come off ?If you are chasing walls from the floor up, skirting boards will need to be removed. Chasing from the ceiling down, picture rails (if fitted) and coving will also need to be removed. Gives you a chance to strip & paint before putting them back. While the skiting boards are off, it is worth putting a thin bead of expanding foam in the gap between floorboards & plaster -Tip - Use a gun rather than a squirt can with attached plastic pipe. A gun lay down a thin bead with much better precision.Sealing the gap between board & plaster will cut down on draughts and make it easier to heat the property.Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Seconded!Mutton_Geoff said:If you're putting in new heating and electrics, run CCTV, network, alarm, phone and twin satellite cable as you go. Find a space as a "control room" (understairs shelf) and bring everything back there so you can put your modem, TV/Sat distribution, alarm and CCTV DVR in one place. Delete any of those options you don't wish to install but the cable is so cheap, you might as well put it in whilst the floor is up.
when we had our rewire done, I had them run cat6 network cable to every bedroom and living rooms, leading back to the loft where I have a network switch. Now everything that can be is hard wired so no need to worry about relying on dodgy WiFi signal. The only things on the WiFi are mobiles/tablets. Also installed a WiFi access point in the ceiling at the top of the landing so I don’t have to use Virgins rubbish standard router.Edit to add - don’t underestimate how many power sockets you need. For example, I have 4x double sockets behind the TV and they’re all in use!0 -
Thanks, useful stuff.Jeepers_Creepers said:Hi Bloke and Dan.
Yes, absolutely, get both done at the same time - you'd be nuts not to. Your CH will, in itself, needs some wiring, but other than that they are fairly separate since rads usually have their pipes coming up from the floor, whereas cables are buried in walls. BOTH, tho', will almost certainly require floorboards lifting, tho' there's a chance one or other trade will prefer dropping them down from the ceiling.
What I would do is first get personal recommendations from folk you know in the area who has used one of these two trades. You really cannot beat this.
Next step is to call them up, explain what you are after but also tell them you need the wiring/plumbing done too - do they know of a good sparky/plumber they often work with?. Seriously, you cannot beat that either. (We've just had an extension built and the main 'wet' builder recommended the roofer and also the sparky as folk he often works with and rated highly. They were all brilliant, and clearly didn't want to let their trade 'partners' down; they'd give priority to the job they shared over ones they did individually.)
Think through beforehand what it is you want - how many sockets and light fittings, etc, and where located. Mutton's idea is good too - consider what else might be attractive (Cat cables etc) to either potential buyers or to yourself. Try and make a plan for each room - where lights will go, switches, sockets etc. Then write down what work you actually want quoting for; if you don't say "All chases/ box surrounds to be filled and sanded ready for painting" then don't weep if this isn't included when the job is done.
Note how well each tradespeep listens to you, and also listen well to them - are they interested in this job, do they want to leave you satisfied, do they emphasise customer service, do they state they will stick to dates/schedules, etc. Get a gut feeling as to who will do the most reliable job.
The electrician and plasterer is from seperate recommendations. I think with an E7 rewire or central heating install, the house needs to be empty.
I’ve moved in so it’s going to be difficult. The whole interior needs redecorating and bathroom fitted which I can do, working around everything.
Might have to just stick with the warm air heating and get on with the decor. If only there was something that could take place of the storage heater and use it’s ducting.
No disruptive chasing needed then as I have grills already in the walls.
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Do it properly or you’ll regret it, I guarantee it.danrv said:
Thanks, useful stuff.Jeepers_Creepers said:Hi Bloke and Dan.
Yes, absolutely, get both done at the same time - you'd be nuts not to. Your CH will, in itself, needs some wiring, but other than that they are fairly separate since rads usually have their pipes coming up from the floor, whereas cables are buried in walls. BOTH, tho', will almost certainly require floorboards lifting, tho' there's a chance one or other trade will prefer dropping them down from the ceiling.
What I would do is first get personal recommendations from folk you know in the area who has used one of these two trades. You really cannot beat this.
Next step is to call them up, explain what you are after but also tell them you need the wiring/plumbing done too - do they know of a good sparky/plumber they often work with?. Seriously, you cannot beat that either. (We've just had an extension built and the main 'wet' builder recommended the roofer and also the sparky as folk he often works with and rated highly. They were all brilliant, and clearly didn't want to let their trade 'partners' down; they'd give priority to the job they shared over ones they did individually.)
Think through beforehand what it is you want - how many sockets and light fittings, etc, and where located. Mutton's idea is good too - consider what else might be attractive (Cat cables etc) to either potential buyers or to yourself. Try and make a plan for each room - where lights will go, switches, sockets etc. Then write down what work you actually want quoting for; if you don't say "All chases/ box surrounds to be filled and sanded ready for painting" then don't weep if this isn't included when the job is done.
Note how well each tradespeep listens to you, and also listen well to them - are they interested in this job, do they want to leave you satisfied, do they emphasise customer service, do they state they will stick to dates/schedules, etc. Get a gut feeling as to who will do the most reliable job.
The electrician and plasterer is from seperate recommendations. I think with an E7 rewire or central heating install, the house needs to be empty.
I’ve moved in so it’s going to be difficult. The whole interior needs redecorating and bathroom fitted which I can do, working around everything.
Might have to just stick with the warm air heating and get on with the decor. If only there was something that could take place of the storage heater and use it’s ducting.
No disruptive chasing needed then as I have grills already in the walls.1 -
The house needs to be empty for a rewire of new CH?! Nah.
You just need to understand there will be disruption, that's all.
These grills - are you hoping these will be boarded over flush, but will also allow easy passage for wires and pipes? If so, that's a great plan - make sure the trades are on message here. There's also the great potential of having the pipes and cabling run via the walls rather than the floor - far neater and far less work. Your hot-air system presumably had a central cupboard where the heater was, and then ducts going to each downstairs room? That's bludy perfect!
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