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Toilet/rainwater into soil stack
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Carrot007 said:Swasterix said:daivid said:If you do as Doozergirl suggests (which I would) you wont need to replace the down pipe as you will be running the toilet waste into the existing soil stack. Cost will be minimal: an elbow joint or two and a piece of 110mm soil pipe (which can be the cheaper brown pipe as it won't be exposed to light). The main thing to check is you can maintain a good gradient from the new toilet location to the point you join the existing stack. 1 in 40 is the ideal IIRC though it doesn't have to be exactly that.
I don’t think that would be a possibility unfortunately. I intend to put a shower cubicle in the place where the toilet is currently, so wouldn’t be possible to run it that way I don’t think. Also, the back of the toilet would be on the back wall of the house where the gutter down pipe runs. Hope that makes sense!Could still do it outside if the drop was enough as said. Though I would not. DIY the new stack costs hardly anything. It's all cheap plastic pipe. A stack in the right place would look better. It's basically change the bottom drain to a closed one. (if that leafy bit is actually part of the drain with an open cover?). Digging up the concrete is a pain. But it's not much, saw to cut lines and pick option on sds.However is is effort! But if you are prepared then it is easy. I replaced around 3 metres of collapsed sewer at my old house. Had to kill a wet vac doing it. as icky backed up! (Had to get next door to do their part as well but was council). Also reaplced the water main incoming from lead which was 15 metres and a bit of digging a hole! That's where the cost comes in for such jobs. The labour!Swasterix said:Carrot007 said:Cutting the hole though the wall for toilet waste is a right pain.
I recently had to cut one for an extractor fan outlet, was not fun 😂
Should be ok then! I once did one usinf nothing more than a 15 mm drill bit meant to make a hole for a copper pipe (ok so 16mm I would guess more than 15!). Many holes, big circle. Did the job. Better tools were unfortunatly not taken to the house that day!Appreciate the input!0 -
flashg67 said:Carrot007 said:Cutting the hole though the wall for toilet waste is a right pain.
I recently had to cut one for an extractor fan outlet, was not fun 😂
Should be ok then! I once did one usinf nothing more than a 15 mm drill bit meant to make a hole for a copper pipe (ok so 16mm I would guess more than 15!). Many holes, big circle. Did the job. Better tools were unfortunatly not taken to the house that day!0 -
Swasterix said:daivid said:If you do as Doozergirl suggests (which I would) you wont need to replace the down pipe as you will be running the toilet waste into the existing soil stack. Cost will be minimal: an elbow joint or two and a piece of 110mm soil pipe (which can be the cheaper brown pipe as it won't be exposed to light). The main thing to check is you can maintain a good gradient from the new toilet location to the point you join the existing stack. 1 in 40 is the ideal IIRC though it doesn't have to be exactly that.
I don’t think that would be a possibility unfortunately. I intend to put a shower cubicle in the place where the toilet is currently, so wouldn’t be possible to run it that way I don’t think. Also, the back of the toilet would be on the back wall of the house where the gutter down pipe runs. Hope that makes sense!Yours would exit the house on the same wall as the soil stack, by the corner, and travel the rest of the journey over the flat roof.As said by someone else, it doesn't involve the rain water pipe.Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
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Doozergirl said:Swasterix said:daivid said:If you do as Doozergirl suggests (which I would) you wont need to replace the down pipe as you will be running the toilet waste into the existing soil stack. Cost will be minimal: an elbow joint or two and a piece of 110mm soil pipe (which can be the cheaper brown pipe as it won't be exposed to light). The main thing to check is you can maintain a good gradient from the new toilet location to the point you join the existing stack. 1 in 40 is the ideal IIRC though it doesn't have to be exactly that.
I don’t think that would be a possibility unfortunately. I intend to put a shower cubicle in the place where the toilet is currently, so wouldn’t be possible to run it that way I don’t think. Also, the back of the toilet would be on the back wall of the house where the gutter down pipe runs. Hope that makes sense!Yours would exit the house on the same wall as the soil stack, by the corner, and travel the rest of the journey over the flat roof.As said by someone else, it doesn't involve the rain water pipe.
We are hoping to add a double storey side extension at some point in the near future, so maybe wasted effort to go that way. But I guess it would be quicker/cheaper/easier in the short term!
Thanks again for all your replies0 -
Swasterix said:Doozergirl said:Swasterix said:daivid said:If you do as Doozergirl suggests (which I would) you wont need to replace the down pipe as you will be running the toilet waste into the existing soil stack. Cost will be minimal: an elbow joint or two and a piece of 110mm soil pipe (which can be the cheaper brown pipe as it won't be exposed to light). The main thing to check is you can maintain a good gradient from the new toilet location to the point you join the existing stack. 1 in 40 is the ideal IIRC though it doesn't have to be exactly that.
I don’t think that would be a possibility unfortunately. I intend to put a shower cubicle in the place where the toilet is currently, so wouldn’t be possible to run it that way I don’t think. Also, the back of the toilet would be on the back wall of the house where the gutter down pipe runs. Hope that makes sense!Yours would exit the house on the same wall as the soil stack, by the corner, and travel the rest of the journey over the flat roof.As said by someone else, it doesn't involve the rain water pipe.
We are hoping to add a double storey side extension at some point in the near future, so maybe wasted effort to go that way. But I guess it would be quicker/cheaper/easier in the short term!
Thanks again for all your repliesYou'd also save on building control fees for the new stack as they'd be included with the extension.No real impact on the new bathroom, just make sure your boxing is removable so behind the loo can be accessed quickly.The cost of doing it as suggested in the meantime is negligible.Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
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flashg67 said:Carrot007 said:Cutting the hole though the wall for toilet waste is a right pain.
I recently had to cut one for an extractor fan outlet, was not fun 😂
Should be ok then! I once did one usinf nothing more than a 15 mm drill bit meant to make a hole for a copper pipe (ok so 16mm I would guess more than 15!). Many holes, big circle. Did the job. Better tools were unfortunatly not taken to the house that day!
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