Mondeo TDCI - flashing coil light, no turbo & limp home ... intermittently.

thorganby

It is not difficult for anyone with a bit of common sense and a few tools to sort this problem, so what have you got to lose!


Loads of info for you to follow online which explains everything in full detail.

 
An actuator video here   


A turbo clean video here   


Drilling an access hole has the advantage that once done it is easy to use cleaner again when necessary and it is easier and less work.


Step by step instructions if drilling and tapping an access hole is beyond you here


Cleaning has proved to be a successful cheap solution for many owners, so stop procrastinating and just get on with it and get the satisfaction of resolving this problem yourself.

forgotmyname

2 or 3 hours or so plus cleaning time to less than 1 hour to drill and tap and spray it.  Add in the cost of a
new oil seal etc.

Although im not sure if a real garage will drill and tap the manifold?

JustAnotherSaver

Would rather not create a new thread. I have enough of those going on already.

Story short - why would my car not run tonight with the EGR unblanked?

I removed the EGR & gave it a good spraying with carb cleaner. It actually wasn't that dirty and while i know it isn't what's causing the flashing glowplug light, i didn't think it'd be dirty enough to trigger the EGR fault code either but i cleaned it all the same.

The blanking plate was the one without the hole. From what i've read, my Mondeo being Euro 4 should have a small hole in the blanking plate (diameter varies depending on who's answering the question - 6mm up to 10mm) which sort of defeats the purpose i would've thought but hey ho.

I intended on removing the cooler pipe and giving that a damn good swish out as well but was running out of time & my brother had to leave and i didn't fancy messing myself (he's more mechanical knowhow than me). I'm not sure if there's a blanking plate on the other end of the pipe (engine side) as there should be or not as obviously i never removed it. If there is one then i left it there.

Reconnected the EGR valve & connected everything back up. I went to leave and as soon as the car started it cut out. Then the car simply wouldn't start at all. Tried it again and as soon as it started it cut out again. Literally about a second after starting.

I popped the bonnet and checked - electrical connector was connected, all pipes seemed to be connected as they should be.

I dismantled and refitted the blanking plate before re-assembling everything.

Started the car again - no problem. It ran.

I noted on the Wynns can of carb cleaner it says PETROL on the side. I wouldn't have thought that'd make a difference? It's surely all just the same sort of cleaner, no? Never noticed this before i started cleaning but it's not like i put a load of petrol in the fuel tank or whatever.

Then unless there's possibly a blanking plate at the engine end of the cooler pipe and this made a difference but even then i wouldn't have thought this would be the cause?

So i'm stumped & hoping someone with some knowhow could shed some light on to why (or likely why)? Thanks.

lopsyfa

forgotmyname said:

lopsyfa said:

About the magic forgetmyname poo, well my experience and that of many others with cars with this engine/turbo says otherwise. I was like you before and believe the shell premium thing is just a marketing gimmick. Maybe not useful for most cars but for some it is definitely quite helpful. Except you are saying my experience didn't happen. If the OP says the gearbox fault disappeared after filling with the fuel - isn't that too much of a coincidence?

Think you posted to the wrong thread.  Set fire to the pixie petrol and see what remains, how is that going to clean
hard carbon deposits on the exhaust side? Cleaner burn and cleaner combustion chamber maybe but thats not
the issue here.  The issue is the exhaust side of the turbo is caked in hard carbon and the variable vanes cannot
do their job.

Something is required to remove that carbon buildup, seen the Mr Muscle option where you drill the manifold
not the turbo. Its certainly easier than stripping the turbo, is it as effective as stripping and cleaning maybe
or maybe not but you can always keep spraying if you missed a bit.  Stripping and cleaning you can see
where the muck is and remove it.  Cost wise though its quite a saving to use the Mr Muscle option.

Not to derail the topic but do you know anything about solubility and effects on combustion at all?

JustAnotherSaver

I did wonder when bumping it with my last post whether i'd be better off asking the question in a new thread since this was actually about the flashing glow plug light which turns out to be turbo. I wasn't sure if we'd end up talking about the turbo or not.

Probably a mistake on my part by posting in this thread then. I was just very aware of how many threads i've made in this forum lately & didn't want to add another.

Been looking at EGRs on eBay and i'm going to have to remove mine again as i think it looks different. I know there's the vacuum one on the Euro 3s and the one with the electrical connector on the Euro 4s like mine. I'm seeing ones on there like mine yet the centre pin (or whatever it's called) looks a little different i'm sure on the eBay listings. Mine appears way more open. I'll have to remove it to check and be sure.

forgotmyname

Several EGR options for the MK3,   Vacuum with and without sensors and fully electric.

It won't fix your turbo issue.

JustAnotherSaver

forgotmyname said:

Several EGR options for the MK3,   Vacuum with and without sensors and fully electric.

I think i've maybe sussed why the car wouldn't start - i THINK the EGR valve is stuck open.

I've never seen one before so i don't know for 100%, that's why i said i think.

I had a look online for a new one last night. People talking of £300 EGRs. I'm guessing they mean from the manufacturer because i was seeing £30-£50 on eBay. Ok these will likely be Chinese knock offs and they may or may not be sufficient.

Anyway back on topic, the pictures that i saw looked different to mine - so today at work i took it off again and the centre ring thing was all the way back on mine whereas on the photos it's to the surface. The centre pin thing (yeah i know i know - incorrect terms being used left and right here) barely moved when pressed. I'm guessing this should move freely and the centre ring should sit near the surface when removed?

forgotmyname said:

It won't fix your turbo issue.

True. I'm considering drilling it myself. I should find myself a test piece of metal that i can work on first as i've never done it before.

Someone at work told me i should get a 'decent tap and die set' and 'not any cheap poop that will probably make a mess and not create a thread'.

Having never used anything like this before, how do i know what's decent and what isn't?

forgotmyname

Its cast iron so cheap taps may cause more trouble. If it snaps you need to remove a hardened steel tap in
a cast iron manifold.  An afternoon of swearing and damn i could do with (insert tool).

thorganby

JustAnotherSaver said:

forgotmyname said:

Several EGR options for the MK3,   Vacuum with and without sensors and fully electric.

I think i've maybe sussed why the car wouldn't start - i THINK the EGR valve is stuck open.

I've never seen one before so i don't know for 100%, that's why i said i think.

I had a look online for a new one last night. People talking of £300 EGRs. I'm guessing they mean from the manufacturer because i was seeing £30-£50 on eBay. Ok these will likely be Chinese knock offs and they may or may not be sufficient.

Anyway back on topic, the pictures that i saw looked different to mine - so today at work i took it off again and the centre ring thing was all the way back on mine whereas on the photos it's to the surface. The centre pin thing (yeah i know i know - incorrect terms being used left and right here) barely moved when pressed. I'm guessing this should move freely and the centre ring should sit near the surface when removed?

forgotmyname said:

It won't fix your turbo issue.

True. I'm considering drilling it myself. I should find myself a test piece of metal that i can work on first as i've never done it before.

Someone at work told me i should get a 'decent tap and die set' and 'not any cheap poop that will probably make a mess and not create a thread'.

Having never used anything like this before, how do i know what's decent and what isn't?

There is no need to buy a full tap & die set to tap this one hole.
For a standard M8 bolt you need a 6.8mm drill.
I have used this company several times, they are specialist suppliers and I can recommend the quality of their items.
I would pay a little extra and get the best HHS Cobalt @ £2.88 each delivered:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-HSS-DRILLS-TITANIUM-TIN-GROUND-COBALT-QUALITY-JOBBER-DRILL-BITS-LOW-PRICES/251338197822?
For the tap you could buy the 1st tap @ £2.04 along with the 2nd tap for another £2.04 but the full set with bottoming tap is only £4.86 delivered:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAND-TAPS-HSS-METRIC-SETS-INDIVIDUAL-TAPER-PLUG-BOTTOMING-HAND-TAP-M3-M24/350859782830?
You will also need a right angle drill attachment for another tenner.
I have one of these:
https://www.toolstation.com/keyless-angle-driver/p40354
Nothing wrong with having a practice run on a similar piece of cast iron to give yourself the confidence that you are lacking.
Follow the turbo clean video above.
You will get satisfaction from doing this yourself, it is not difficult and very cost effective!
Mr Muscle is waiting to clean your turbo! 

JustAnotherSaver

Thanks for the links. I googled good tap set before you replied and results were showing over £100. I thought this can't be right, I may as well send it in to get cleaned.

Have you done this before? The mention of 6.8mm makes me think you have as this is a number I've seen mentioned on the ford forums. 

What's your (or anyone's) take on things like Wynns turbo cleaner - fuel additive. Going purely off its claims, it cleans the turbo, exhaust side & all. 
I'm very sceptical. Talked to my brother about it and his opinion was its a load of nonsense and money making. I lean towards this view but theres enough reviews from people saying it helped with their issue (which granted, may be different to my issue). 
I haven't bought any but I did contact Wynns to explain how it supposedly cleaned the exhaust side if the solution doesn't actually come in to contact with the carbon. They started talking about combustion and activation. 

I'm still not convinced but the positive reviews on it are enough to make me curious at the very least. For £7.99 I'm wondering if it's actually worth a punt.