Fluorescent to LED light

Joe9090

One of the fluorescent lights in the garage has just stopped working.
It seems it's the ballast because I have tried replacing the tube and the starter.
Unfortunately the unit in question is in a very inaccessible place  and the second unit is wired from it (so I know the problem is not the electrical supply).
From what I can see it's mostly recommended to replace the whole unit if upgrading to LED. Would it be possible to bypass the ballast and buy a LED tube leaving the existing wiring as it is to ensure the second unit still works?

molerat

Yes and loads of how tos on Youtube. Need to make sure you get the correct type of LED tube.  How much more difficult would it be to replace the whole unit - can't be more difficult than fiddling around with the internal wiring bypassing the ballast.

Joe9090

Thanks for your reply.
The light is about 10 foot above the ground in a very inaccessible place and it would be hard enough getting the wires together as you can see in the attached photos https://postimg.cc/gallery/knNNRzV
I thought it would just be easier bypassing the ballast.

Jonesya

Before you make the switch to LED, just check that the replacements give out the same amount of light because a 5ft, 58W fluorescent gives out over 5000 lumens. Many of the LED replacement tubes don't get anywhere near this light output, which can be an issue if you need it.

Upgrading fluorescents to LEDs is pretty marginal because they're already very efficient.

Joe9090

Thanks for advice about the amount of light given off by LED's it's certainly a point to consider.
It appears that replacement ballasts are pretty hard to come by now and when you find them they are quite expensive compared to a LED tube.

shaun_from_Africa

About a year ago, I swopped the fluorescent tubes (5 in total) in my garage to LED's and I opted for these:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTTH527DL.html
which were a direct replacement with no wiring changes needed. (just a new starter which is supplied with each tube).
When you turn them on, the light is pretty much instantaneous and there is zero flicker, something that I don't like from fluorescent tubes.

Homer_home

Led tubes give out no way near the same light as a flourescent tube and because of that are no more energy efficient

I would just replace like for like , fittings are relatively cheap 

fenwick458

Homer_home said:

Led tubes give out no way near the same light as a flourescent tube and because of that are no more energy efficient

I would just replace like for like , fittings are relatively cheap 

like for like if you can get them still....
I like the old switch start flourescents, they seem to work for ever and ever. you change the starter and the tube now and then but they just keep working. I've found old flourescents that are older than me, and they still work...!
modern HF flourescents with a built in starter I've found last around 2 years, and the ballast/choke will need replaced and they are approximately 75% of the cost of the light.
LED retrofit tubes have to much going on to last more than a few years and are half as bright , they are crap too.
dedicated LED strip fittings, yes they are brighter and don't flicker and they start up instantly and they use fractionally less power, but they will probably last about 5 years ,thats capitalism for you

Jonesya

Joe9090 said:

Thanks for advice about the amount of light given off by LED's it's certainly a point to consider.
It appears that replacement ballasts are pretty hard to come by now and when you find them they are quite expensive compared to a LED tube.

You can still get them - around £6 plus postage:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Lighting_Fluorescent_Index/Flo_Control_1/index.html#Control_Gear

Joe9090

Many thanks for the excellent advice.
I don't know what to do now!
I was about to go with shaun_from_Africa's solution because  because it was the easiest solution and I was prepared to accept the Lumen output of 4000 against the equivalent  output of 5200 for fluorescent tubes but the Choke 58w Switch Start is very tempting!


 

Joe9090

Footnote.
In the end I went for the Choke 58w Switch Start and fitted it with no problem. It didn't work!
I was about to go with shaun_from_Africa's solution and I thought I would just check the starter again.
For some reason (don't ask me!) the starter was 70-125W so I replaced it with a 4-65W and it worked!