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Repointing side wall
Comments
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FreeBear said:OK 70s build - Don't suppose this is a Barret house ?The major national house builders are not noted for their quality of build... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6467195/Hundreds-Britains-new-build-homes-risk-crumbling.htmlA little gadget that will help you when it comes to pointing (posted a couple of times before).Worth making one, and certainly a lot better than those mortar guns (don't bother buying one, they are cr*p).
Not sure. Cambridgeshire/Essex/Herts border.
I’ve bought a basic plastic hawk form Screwfix and a pointing trowel. It’s only then that you
start seeing other ideas and tools. Bit trial and error.
I don’t have an applicator but the trowel has a rounded tip.
Maybe could pick up a double ended one with different sizes each end.
As for raking out, the mortar is quite solid at 10mm in and it would take a lot more hard work to get a 20mm deep gap (saw this recommendation somewhere).
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stuart45 said:6/1/1 should probably be fine for a 70's house. Make sure it's well damped down. I normally use the mist setting to give it a good soaking.0
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Yes, you can use plaz instead. Just don't put in too much. You probably need a half round jointer to finish the joints.
These are really good for getting the bed joints straight, but you probably don't want the expense for a one off job.
https://www.speedcrete.co.uk/half-round-sled-runners.html
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stuart45 said:Yes, you can use plaz instead. Just don't put in too much. You probably need a half round jointer to finish the joints.
These are really good for getting the bed joints straight, but you probably don't want the expense for a one off job.
https://www.speedcrete.co.uk/half-round-sled-runners.html
That’s great, thanks.
For tools, so far have only bought a hawk and a trowel. Someone suggested a bit of hose
for shaping the mortar as it’s a one off job.
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if you watch the video on this thread, its easy to make a board/hawk like the one he is selling, i found the hardest bit was making a trowel to use with it (made one from old radiator bracket in the end) for me the board/hawk works better than a normal hawk or a mortar gun
used bits around the garage to make the board/hawk,
pine floorboard, pine stripwood for sides and radiator bracket for the angled ends that you place against the wall1 -
These are quite useful as well.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-G1635-Tuck-Pointer-Trowel/dp/B00LQP3CS0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_top?ie=UTF8
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I've got one of those but it needs cutting down in length to fit the board/hawk, to buy at Toolstation is £6 (secondhand auction place near me shut down) so £6 or make one, I made one1
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Thanks for the replies. Good ideas for tools.
As mentioned, I should replace like for like. Have done the vinegar test on the mortar and no bubbling or reaction.
Don’t know if this is proof enough that it’s not lime based.
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Any ideas on identifying mortar type would be useful. I’ve prepared the 1st section of wall. It’s just that using cement where the original is lime based would be a bad idea I’ve read. Once I get the type and mix correct, I can crack on with it.
The old mortar is yellow sand colour when removed. It’s a fairly modern build (1970’s) so would have thought it would be cement/sand type.
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Rake out some of the mortar and pop it in a small plastic container. Pour some vinegar on - If it fizzes, it will be lime.But a 1970s build will most likely be cement based.If the mortar really is lime based, then replace it with a 3:1 mix of sharp sand and NHL3.5 lime. Give the bricks a good soak with water before starting and cover with hessian when you are finished.Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1
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