Can this rendering be repaired or would you say it needs completely replacing?

CattyUk

...........

FreeBear

The cracks don't appear to be particularly severe, so filling and repainting should be fine.

However, the pattern of cracks suggest that there may be structural problems stemming from the uPVC window. You need to check to see if there is a lintel supporting the outer leaf, and if there isn't, get one fitted - Depending on who, and how long ago the window was replaced, you might have a claim against the installers.

neilmcl

What's your neighbours side look like? How old is the render?

Might be worth giving it a bit of tap around the cracked areas to see if it's blown and coming away from the wall.

stuart45

The house might be cross wall construction, in which case the upper flank could be timber frame. 
How thick are the upstairs exterior walls?

stuart45

If you measure the walls thickness at the upstairs window. Timber frame walls of that era would be normally built from 4x2 so the walls will be much thinner than the standard cavity walls 0f 10-11 inches.  
It means if it is cross wall construction that the loads of the upper floors and roof are taken on the party and gable walls.
Also there should only be minimal loading on the downstairs windows.
It may not be timber if you say there was a problem at the rear.
A lot of houses around that period were cross wall construction to allow for larger frames to be used.
I doubt if there's a lintel over the brickwork as the top course does not line up with the top of the frame.

FreeBear

CattyUk said: Worrying now. Booked a structural engineer for a survey but got to wait a week.

Wait until a structural engineer has had a good look. Get him to look at the other ground floor windows & doors while he is there. Even if there are no lintels on the outer leaf, the house is not going to collapse overnight. Any damage will be gradual and take quite a few years before it is a real issue. So no need to panic just yet.

CattyUk

stuart45 said:

If you measure the walls thickness at the upstairs window. Timber frame walls of that era would be normally built from 4x2 so the walls will be much thinner than the standard cavity walls 0f 10-11 inches.  
It means if it is cross wall construction that the loads of the upper floors and roof are taken on the party and gable walls.
Also there should only be minimal loading on the downstairs windows.
It may not be timber if you say there was a problem at the rear.
A lot of houses around that period were cross wall construction to allow for larger frames to be used.
I doubt if there's a lintel over the brickwork as the top course does not line up with the top of the frame.

If I am understanding you correcting by this thickness of the wall (pic attached) then definitely not like 10/11 inches? 

Or did you mean to measure differently 

stuart45

I can't see the pic.

stuart45

It does not look like a timber frame to me, it's looks too wide. To measure a walls thickness you need to have the tape from the outside face of the wall to the inside face of the wall. You might have solid masonry on the upper storey, as it looks like the cavity was closed with roofing tiles at the top of the brickwork. 
I wouldn't worry too much, cracks often  appear in render. See what the SE thinks. Easier to say with a site visit.